Hello, In my 86 GT I noticed some leaking on the ground, and the wheel liner is wet from probably from these rubber hoses near the rear left wheel, close to the brake line, and looks like they go behind or to the block.

Anyone has info about the size or specs to replace them?

(Now that I see the pictures looks like I took them all pointing to the steel that they connect)











Thanks!

[This message has been edited by Zentaury (edited 07-18-2020).]

Those are automatic transmission cooler lines. Clean the up to see where the leak is and check your transmission fluid level.

IIRC, that's a common hose size. You should be able to get some at the local auto parts store. Hose rated for fuel and/or oil should be fine. It's also be a good idea to use fuel injection clamps, instead of worm-drive clamps. Worm-drive clamps can damage the hose. Auto parts stores should have those, too.

Auto Trans coolant hose is Not like other hoses.
Hot AT Oils can "eat" many types even many rated as fuel types. In turn "Rotten hose" trash can plug other parts causing huge headaches.

At many places get AT oil hose as part of replacement/extra hose for "AT cooler kits."
The replace hose usually is ~ 2x amount needed to replace both Fiero hoses. Keep the extra and label it so can ID it later.

Clamps won't matter and most tighten way too much to cut into to rubber or even break the clamp.

Coolant oil flow is "waste oil" output from main pressure regulator on it's way to dump that into the oil pan.
Is why AT coolant flow have very little pressure to blow clamp joints if are parts are right parts. If has pressure above 1-3 psi, very likely cooling loop parts have big problems. Could be crush tubes to heat exchanger is blocked w/ crap.

Some people replace hose nipples w/ straight pipe/tube and doesn't have expanded spots to keep hose on.
When I see 2 clamp this is likely why I worry.
Losen clamp(s) on body side and Carefully pull hose off and look at the bumps. AT side should have same bumps on the metal.

Caution: Loop Hose has to go on right metal parts. Loop Hose is part of "Anti Drain" so TC won't drain when parked and need to be on the AT output.
TH125c out is bottom port. See my Cave, Automatic
Out on other units like 4T60 may not be same.
Loop hose should have outer hose aka "jacket hose" to protect the main hose between loop bracket and body. Just move that to new hose.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

I removed the rear left wheel, the wheel liners (hopefully I can get a replacement of the plastic screws that holds them, because I broke 3).

Then cleaned the 2 coolant hoses, let it dry. I noticed that as you mentioned, the worm type "bites" the hose.

Next day put a piece of cardboard and turn on the car.

There is a leaking on the "loop hose". So I bought the Automatic Transmission Coolant Hose. Tonight I am going to replace it.

In the meantime, a quick inspection of the frame rails to see how much rust is there.



What do you think of this rust?

What is the best way to stop it?

I bought 4 ft of 5/16 AT cooler hose and the worm-type clamps. Around 2ft were enough for the “loop” hose. Now that I am here I am replacing the other AT coolant hose.

Ran the car for a couple minutes. Before, it would leak right away. Now there was no leak.

Used Mobil 1 Dexron IV Automatic Transmission Fluid.

Cool deal.

Yeah, those worm drive clamps can really chew up a hose... especially smaller diameter ones. On bigger stuff, you can sometimes get away with a worm drive clamp, because the force is being distributed over a much larger surface.

I hope you are changing that tire soon. Covered in dry rot! Ouch. Be safe out there