Auto Trans coolant hose is Not like other hoses.
Hot AT Oils can "eat" many types even many rated as fuel types. In turn "Rotten hose" trash can plug other parts causing huge headaches.
At many places get AT oil hose as part of replacement/extra hose for "AT cooler kits."
The replace hose usually is ~ 2x amount needed to replace both Fiero hoses. Keep the extra and label it so can ID it later.
Clamps won't matter and most tighten way too much to cut into to rubber or even break the clamp.
Coolant oil flow is "waste oil" output from main pressure regulator on it's way to dump that into the oil pan.
Is why AT coolant flow have very little pressure to blow clamp joints if are parts are right parts. If has pressure above 1-3 psi, very likely cooling loop parts have big problems. Could be crush tubes to heat exchanger is blocked w/ crap.
Some people replace hose nipples w/ straight pipe/tube and doesn't have expanded spots to keep hose on.
When I see 2 clamp this is likely why I worry.
Losen clamp(s) on body side and Carefully pull hose off and look at the bumps. AT side should have same bumps on the metal.Caution:
Loop Hose has to go on right metal parts. Loop Hose is part of "Anti Drain" so TC won't drain when parked and need to be on the AT output.
TH125c out is bottom port. See my Cave, Automatic
Out on other units like 4T60 may not be same.
Loop hose should have outer hose aka "jacket hose" to protect the main hose between loop bracket and body. Just move that to new hose.
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
The Ogre's Fiero Cave