I have all 4 calipers off, stripping them for the long awaited powder coating.
They have to be stripped and rebuilt, of course.. and front right was in no mood to comply.

I really did try, heat and WD40 and that.. and.. it broke off.
I drilled and backed out and drilled and backed out and all I have to show for it is a stripped hole.
I hate brake bleeders.
So TFS has the caliper for $80. Sigh.
Rock has the front for only $25! Oh, wait.. only front left is in stock.
Yay! Autozone in stock at $32!
Oh, and I was going to default to red, but all opinions will be considered. It is a 2M4 2.5 with original tattered black finish and snow flake rims.

[This message has been edited by Chris Eddy (edited 07-12-2020).]

If the bleeder doesn't come out easily the very next step is to cover it with a 1/2" nut and weld the center up. While it is still red hot, hit the top with a hammer.

Let it cool and it will come out w/o issue. Don't mess with all the other stuff... Extreme heat from welding will break any steel bolt or stud loose in aluminum... every time.

Autozone's definition of "in stock" does not actually mean that they, in fact, have the item in question. Ask me how I know.

You may well end up ordering from TFS.

-- A

Right you are.. Autozone was teasing me with a short skirt. Looks like TFS.. with no good core!
And on welding.. I should have handed it off to someone that could, I cannot.

I haven't tried one of these kits but I would in your situation.

Dorman - HELP Brake Bleeder Screw Repair Kit




https://www.autozone.com/te...3105_0_0?CAGPSPN=pla

Same thing happened to me in my rear left calliper. 86 GT.

For the price of the calliper ($160 plus core here in Canada) I bought the rotors, pads and callipers of the 90 Grand Am. I feel it stops better. Front are still stock.

I never had a bleeder screw I couldn't get out. Not even on my 1962 Pontiac Grand Prix.

I first try Castle Thrust penetrating oil and an air hammer. Spray the oil a few times for a full day or two. Then rap the area near the side of the screw with an air hammer. Then use a 6 point socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet, working it back & forth an 1/8th or 1/16th of a turn at a time.

If that doesn't work I take my acetylene torch and using a small brazing tip, heat the area up around the screw, hit it lightly with the air hammer, heat it again and remove the screw with a 6 point socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet.

Doing it any other way or rushing the process and you will be buying a new caliper.

[This message has been edited by Thunderstruck GT (edited 07-13-2020).]

Bleeder should have covers to keep out water etc. If you lose them the bleeders will "rust" faster.
Get caps at many auto part stores. Or if you go to a junk yard, get the caps off nearly any car.

Careful use of compressed air to "flush out" the bleeders to remove brake fluid when done then cap the bleeder.

I remove the bleeders, dry if needed for old ones, then coat the threads w/ Brake Grease. Not Anti seize or anything else.
Thin coat keep out water in threads.

Don't over tighten w/ or w/o brake grease on threads!
Seal is cone tip to small hole under it. Don't need a lot of torque to seal. I use socket and 1/4 ratchet but only use head end w/ fingers. "Nut Driver" types can over torque them easy too if grasping w/ whole hand and torque down.

Over torque to install often won't break them but will have problems to remove/open again months to years later.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

brake bleaders twist off for a couple reasons, in tight, corrosion, etc. next time try this, it does work and they do make kits for this. clean out the bleeder the best you can. take an old drill bit that is as close to the size of the hole in the bleeder, if it fits tight, even better. tap it in with a hammer as far as possible. use your favorite penetrating oil, i prefer kroil. it will back out almost every time. with the bleeder being hollow, when you try to remove it, it collapses in on itself. Put the drill bit in there to keep it from doing that. i have been doing this for quite a long time with good results

I have the repair kit above ordered, and will follow Ogres protections to the letter.. Should get me under way with 4 usable calipers.
Thanks for all of the useful stuff..