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Tire Question by kendallville
Started on: 07-10-2020 05:24 PM
Replies: 14 (191 views)
Last post by: kendallville on 07-14-2020 04:46 PM
kendallville
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Report this Post07-10-2020 05:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Five years ago I put new tires on my 87 base coup. From then to now I have put about 7000 miles on them.
now I need two new ones for the back, the front still look new the back have almost no tread left.
Do they eat tires like that or is it some thing to do with the suspension? I had the local GM dealer do a four
wheel alignment at the time.
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BillS
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Report this Post07-10-2020 07:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BillSClick Here to Email BillSSend a Private Message to BillSEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That is unusual wear if they are normal 300+ wear tires. Sounds like you may have an alignment issue.
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kendallville
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Report this Post07-10-2020 10:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
could this be bumpsteer related or bad tie rods, I know the rear suspension is complicated to say the least.
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Lambo nut
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Report this Post07-10-2020 10:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lambo nutSend a Private Message to Lambo nutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by BillS:

That is unusual wear if they are normal 300+ wear tires. Sounds like you may have an alignment issue.


Tire wear ratings tell you little about a tires expected life amongst other brands. The tire wear rating is only relevant within a manufacturers line of tires.
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cvxjet
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Report this Post07-10-2020 11:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cvxjetClick Here to Email cvxjetSend a Private Message to cvxjetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have bought TWO replacement sets of rear tires without wearing out the fronts...Apparently, the light loading on the front tires simply doesn't wear them out- The rears carry more weight PLUS deal with.....ahem......Acceleration....

I have ended up replacing the fronts simply due to age.
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creaky78
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Report this Post07-11-2020 07:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for creaky78Click Here to Email creaky78Send a Private Message to creaky78Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by kendallville:

Five years ago I put new tires on my 87 base coup. From then to now I have put about 7000 miles on them.
now I need two new ones for the back, the front still look new the back have almost no tread left.
Do they eat tires like that or is it some thing to do with the suspension? I had the local GM dealer do a four
wheel alignment at the time.


Can you post a photo of the worn treads?
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kendallville
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Report this Post07-11-2020 08:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Front

Rear
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Raydar
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Report this Post07-11-2020 08:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ever since I have been driving Fieros, I wear out at least two sets of rears for every set of fronts.
Every. Time.

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olejoedad
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Report this Post07-11-2020 09:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Ever since I have been driving Fieros, I wear out at least two sets of rears for every set of fronts.
Every. Time.



That's been my experience for the last 25 years too.

Kendallville, you need to have the alighnment checked. Wear on the outside of a rear tire isn't common.

Nice wheels! 😉
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kendallville
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Report this Post07-11-2020 10:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the responses . What gets me is the wear is even across the tire, not just inside or out.
I even try to keep a light foot so it wont eat tire like my firebird did
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fierosound
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Report this Post07-11-2020 11:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by kendallville:

What gets me is the wear is even across the tire, not just inside or out.


Then you're running proper tire pressure and have a good alignment.
Nothing wrong with that.

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Report this Post07-11-2020 02:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Alignment on a machine often Do Not = Dynamic Alignment While Driving.
Machine Spec are setup for this issue normally and you shouldn't have a problem...
But...
Many iffy suspension parts or just 1 can make a car eat tires but still pass alignment on a machine.
Most "alignment shops" no longer look for bad suspension parts unless is very obvious or can't complete the work order.

People claiming eats rear tires, or fronts in FWD, are often cause by owners w/ lead foot problems.

Plus Don't check tire air regularly and rotate them doesn't help.
  • Cold Inflation for cars can charge ~ 1psi per 10°F for weather that week plus air leaks over time even w/o problems w/ tires and/or rims.
    Radial tires often Will Not have outside or inside wear shown in many "books" for inflation issues. Mostly that is "holdover" data from Bias Belt tires even then mostly w/o steel belts.
  • Most cars have 1 size tire front and back... but many tires have directional design... So only swap front/back on same side if you're not sure.
    Some directional tires have small arrows or weird shapes making hard to see for many people.
    Radials w/o Directional designs Can used X rotation methods but are harder for many people.

    Note: Many brands of rechargeable tools now have 1 to several tire inflators. Other have "cheap" portable compressors of whatever type...
    While easy and fairly cheap... Don't trust auto stop feature or even a gauge on them until you check w/ a good real gauge at minimum. Auto feature and gauge in them can be off 1 to 5 psi. Some ever more.
    My Ryobi unit even tells you the gauge isn't calibrated in the owner "book." That reads a bit higher then most gauges read at tire valve.
    The gauge etc maybe accurate but I believe the hose and/or quick release chuck doesn't play well w/ some or many tire valves.
    Still better then dragging out a long hose or 120v 3gal Compressor.

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    [This message has been edited by theogre (edited 07-11-2020).]

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    kendallville
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    Report this Post07-11-2020 03:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
    How do I look for bad parts or would it be better to just replace all suspension parts?
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    theogre
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    Report this Post07-13-2020 07:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
    Finding iffy bushings etc can be hard because damage is often hard to see w/o taking things apart, using probes/mirrors or bore scope to feel/look at hidden areas, and so on.
    Outer shells can "rust out" on back/top you can't see easy. Once gone the rubber has nothing compressing it and moves every easy when driving.
    Even when bushing look ok, the rubber can "wear out" after many years.

    replace all is best for 20+ year old cars.
    Need tools etc to press out/in CA bushings etc.
    At minimum replace rear CA bushings since front tires are ok for now. Can likely do that w/o needing alignment right away.

    But if car has rust problems... can be a lot harder even w/ right tools.
    CA pivot bolts nuts and even the washer they have are Class 10.9 (Equiv to SAE Grade 8) or higher to handle the loads. If you heat or cut them you need New hardware too.
    Bolts often get stuck in bushing... Avoid heating the bolts. Cut rubber to see inner tube and See my Cave, Bushings and rest of section.
    Replace w/ Moog or other rubber is best for most people.
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    kendallville
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    Report this Post07-14-2020 04:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
    Thanks for the response .
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