I know, a bit of a strange and long title. And not really Fiero specific, but also applies to Fieros.
I've been changing oil today, and the oil filter gets hot and stays hot for a long time. On some vehicles I work on, I need to reach in from the top of the engine, and remove the oil filter from above. This means that I have to unscrew it, and hold onto it as its leaking hot oil over everything, including my hands. I need a pair of gloves that are oil and heat resistant. I can find gloves that are either/or, but not both. If the glove protects from heat, they're not chemical resistant, and visa versa.
I use my bare hands, while under the car, with an oil drain pan in position. You can tell when the filter is about to let go while unscrewing it. Just swing it down quickly into the pan (don't just drop it!), and the mess is negligible.
I can understand wanting to wear gloves if you were doing this job all day every day... but once or twice a year?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-02-2020).]
I use a pair of heavy duty chemical gloves. They are better than nitrile gloves for that sort of thing, and have some insulating capacity. Can't get them on the exhaust - THEY WILL MELT! Lost one pair that way.
These have always done well for me, and if hot oil drips on them, just wipe them down and they are as good as new. The finger dexterity will be lacking, but it beats getting burned.
The PVC coated ones are good to about 180 degrees. If you need more than that, I would recommend gloves coated with rubber.
Go buy a cheap pair of those knit gardening gloves (Tight fit) and then but a pair of the dishwashing gloves in extra-large.......Only use them for this job and wipe off the oil from the plastic gloves before storing them. (Disclaimer; Although I have given this some thought, I have never tested this actual idea- let me know how it works if you try it)
Go buy a cheap pair of those knit gardening gloves (Tight fit) and then but a pair of the dishwashing gloves in extra-large.......Only use them for this job and wipe off the oil from the plastic gloves before storing them. (Disclaimer; Although I have given this some thought, I have never tested this actual idea- let me know how it works if you try it)
I tried something like this. I found a pair of knit gloves, not as thick as gardening gloves. I put them on, and a pair of thin latex gloves. It worked. For a while, at least. Until the latex gloves broke. Which took longer than I expected. So this idea may work pretty well.
I use an oil filter removal tool and never touch the filter. Most of the time you can't get it loose with your hands anyway
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I use a rag. Any glove can have problem when hot oil is on or worse in them. A rag you can drop in < 1 sec if oil tries to burn you.
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: I use an oil filter removal tool and never touch the filter. Most of the time you can't get it loose with your hands anyway
Many vehicles is not a option to remove filter w/o touching. Many are hard even to break loose a filter w/ a "wrench" unless you find 1 to a few types that works on some cars.
Some "wrenches" won't hold a filter once the torque to remove is gone. Most Band and some "end grabbers" types are useless to dangerous depending on specific case at hand.
Many like l4 in Fiero have horizontal mounts or close to that and need to get filter off quickly then turn flange up as soon as clears the threads to stop oil dripping. W/ l4 Fiero I also put rags in between engine mount bracket and pan to trap oil running down inside of them. Other wise have oil dripping on ground floor etc for hours to days. The bracket have a small drain hole on bottom but often is full of dirt holding oil that drips.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I use an oil filter removal tool and never touch the filter. Most of the time you can't get it loose with your hands anyway
I worked 5 years at a place that changed oil and rarely used a tool or gloves.I might slip on a sleeve if the exhaust or converter were close. The ones that came in immediately from a 30 mile trip had pretty hot filters but got used to it.
Originally posted by Will: Then you're overtightening the new one when you put it on.
"Wrench" Needed When: Most DIY and many "Pro" over tighten them. Many "O-rings" stick even if you oil them when installed or O-ring has whatever pre "lubed" to prevent stuck seals. Some cars you simply can't reach them by hand to tighten or remove. Worse for many newer cars w/ tiny openings in bottom trim just to change the filter.
That's just "spin on" filters. Ignoring 88 Duke Filter in the pan etc.
Many use the Tall filter like PF52 and related on Duke just for easier reach to change them and not just Fiero. FWD Dukes are even harder to reach when you use "right" short filter like PF47 etc. Is likely why 88+ had the filter in the pan that causes problems too.
Kia Soul and many others "to improve" aero to meet EPA etc rules have trim on the bottom of cars including the engine bay. Even have small caps/plugs in that to get access to the filter. For Soul, About the only "wrench" works are a cup type or "finger trap" spring type that grabs from the bottom to get them off. Even then just barely loosen until oil above flange stops dripping or can oil getting in trim and drips anywhere.