Hello everyone!
1986 GT, first time for me working on electrical stuff.

1) Previous owner stated that the battery gets drained overnight. I don’t have a (multimeter? Voltmeter?)... which tool do I need to measure on the battery and remove the fuses trying to find the change in (amperage? Ohm resistance?).

2) Trunk release button doesn’t release the trunk. I am assuming this wires on top are why is not working?


3)In my 1985 I have a switch/button that the trunk presses to turn of the trunk light. I don’t have a switch in this 1986. And the trunk light never comes on. I found out that I have a funny kind of lightbulb.


Is that the original lightbulb?



The third brake light doesn’t work neither... same thing, weird lightbulb for me. I bought a 194 as I read in other threads. Do I need to get that GE 889?




Thanks everyone for their advice!

Loose wire has nothing to do with trunk release.
It is a ground wire for the RF shield on the decklid.
Probably got broken when decklid was removed.



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My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-30-2020).]

PT solenoid get ground thru latch only when closed.
Latch and loop much make contact so solenoid works.

plus only works w/ AT in Park or Neutral or MT w/ P-brake On.

See my Cave, Trunk Release

889 25w Halogen is only one to use. Others may fit but Hot Bulb = Melt or Burn everything.
Must Clean The Bulb w/ alcohol to remove oil from hands etc.
See my Cave, Lighbulbs

Trunk bulb uses switch on latch, Latch switch or wires might be crap and leave light on.
Check Trunk bulb works then push switch just enough so Ajar light is off. Truck bulb should be off too.
Many times that won't kill the battery over night when you have a good full charge battery because draws < 1 amp.

Latch switch "arm" can wear where hits the loop by open/close the lit very often or latch is adjusted way loose. If Ajar light turns off then Turn Bulb should turn off too and wear on the arm isn't a problems.

But iffy Gen1 HL motor(s) and the wiring can and often will. Often motor(s) twitch and gets hot.
See my Cave, Gen 1 HL Motor

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(Jurassic Park)

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Thanks guys!

The rain has not let me do an inspection in the trunk latch switch... but now I have a third brake light!



With a car this low, and the taillights are not the best is more convenient to have that stop light in working order.

Next... I read that this shouldn’t be this high, or is everything ok?

Hard to say. Measure the voltage with digital volt meter and see what it shows. The right place to read it is at the alternator but it's difficult to get to so I cheat and measure the voltage at the battery terminals with the motor running. It should be around 14.5 volts.

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Mike in Sydney

Volts w/ Engine running or off?

Dash gauges often lie for many reasons.

Yes, check V w/ a meter at the Battery at minimum.
Engine off w/ full charge battery should see 12.6 to 13v.
Engine running should see 14 - 15v. (Ideal is 14.7v.)

Note: ECM can set "codes" when sees too high volts. Maybe for low volts too depending of ECM/PCM version.

Thanks again!

The volts are with the engine running.

Even when I turn on the blinkers I can see it moving every time the lights blink. I will buy a multimeter soon to measure it on the battery.

Now I noticed that even if I turn off the car, remove the keys, lock the doors, the radio clock stays ON.

Is that normal?

And one more thing...

To drive, the steering wheel has to be slightly turned to the left, to make the car go straight. If my hands are on the 9-3 o clock position, the right hand is under the right spoke.

It needs alignment? Or is related to the steering rack?

Thanks!

GM radios and most aftermarket units should Not have clock on w/ key off. Maybe the radio has problems. Or if aftermarket is wired wrong.
Of have blown fuse(s) like See my Cave, Sneak Path

Dash Volts dip when turn lights blink, brake light on, etc. is often iffy grounds. Yes Grounds and can be anywhere w/ problems.
Fix/clean every ground and metal bolted/screwed to then coat w/ brake or silicon grease.
check wires to the alt and battery cables too.
See my Cave, Wire Service

"steering wheel has to be slightly turned... to make the car go straight."
Can be anything...
Something in the front or back or both can cause that. Just 1 iffy Control Arm or Cradle bushing anywhere can do that.
And Still See "Good alignment" on an alignment machine.
Why?
Driving loads up the bushings etc and change alignment vs static alignment on an alignment machine.
1 crap part can "fail" under driving loads but seem ok at alignment shop.
Finding iffy parts can be easy or very hard depending just what is wrong.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 07-02-2020).]