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Removing Front Rotors on 86GT by Brent7088
Started on: 06-29-2020 07:22 PM
Replies: 14 (184 views)
Last post by: Brent7088 on 07-01-2020 04:50 AM
Brent7088
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Report this Post06-29-2020 07:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Brent7088Click Here to Email Brent7088Send a Private Message to Brent7088Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm trying to get the front rotors off of my 86GT and can't seem to get it free. Does anyone know for sure if the large nut in the center has to come off first before the rotor slides off? It seems as though it could be holding it on but can't tell for sure. Hammering it from behind after spraying all the studs did't do anything.

Thank you in advance.
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Patrick
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Report this Post06-29-2020 07:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The spindle nut has nothing to do with retaining the rotor.

I suspect it's rusted around the center bore, not the studs.

You've removed the caliper, right?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-29-2020).]

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Brent7088
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Report this Post06-29-2020 07:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Brent7088Click Here to Email Brent7088Send a Private Message to Brent7088Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Patrick - Yes, everything is off with the caliper tied up and off to the side -- just can't get the stupid rotor to budge. I suppose I just need to spray and hammer some more then.
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dremu
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Report this Post06-29-2020 07:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dremuClick Here to Email dremuSend a Private Message to dremuEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Umm, Patrick, are you thinking of the rears?

The stock fronts on 84-87, anyway, are one piece, hub and rotor. [Various upgrade options have separate rotors, but the stock ones are one piece.]



So, yeah, you gotta remove the cotter pin, undo the spindle nut, and then the whole thing comes out.

-- A
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hunter29
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Report this Post06-29-2020 08:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hunter29Send a Private Message to hunter29Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Do all new rotors like above come with the bearing race installed ?

[This message has been edited by hunter29 (edited 06-29-2020).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post06-29-2020 09:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dremu:

Umm, Patrick, are you thinking of the rears?

The stock fronts on 84-87, anyway, are one piece, hub and rotor. [Various upgrade options have separate rotors, but the stock ones are one piece.]



Damn, am I thinking of the front rotors on my '88 Formula?

Sorry Brent.
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dremu
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Report this Post06-29-2020 10:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dremuClick Here to Email dremuSend a Private Message to dremuEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by hunter29:

Do all new rotors like above come with the bearing race installed ?



Should do, yeah. Now whether that race matches your bearings is another matter. When I redid mine I just hammered out the new ones with a brass drift and put in the matching ones that came with my new bearings because they were there. All the books tell you not to mix old and new.

Oh yeah, and be damn sure the bearing grease is spec'd for disc brake, as they get toasty. General duty grease is no bueno.

-- A
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hunter29
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Report this Post06-29-2020 11:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hunter29Send a Private Message to hunter29Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dremu:


Should do, yeah. Now whether that race matches your bearings is another matter. When I redid mine I just hammered out the new ones with a brass drift and put in the matching ones that came with my new bearings because they were there. All the books tell you not to mix old and new.

Oh yeah, and be damn sure the bearing grease is spec'd for disc brake, as they get toasty. General duty grease is no bueno.

-- A


Right, thats what I was thinking..
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theogre
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Report this Post06-30-2020 01:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes, need to pull the nut and bearings...

Clean old grease out.
Pack bearings w/ Wheel Bearing grease for Disk Brake cars.
This grease won't leak or cause other problems.

Do Not stuff grease in/on anything else. Lightly coat middle on spindle and inside of hub between bearings, maybe inside of cap, just to protect rust on them.

Yes hubs often have new outer races.
Because of Tolerance between makers and questionable quality I rarely use them and replace w/ match outers w/ the new bearings.

Drive out... Often is 2 notches inside of hub so bigger area to drive them. feel inside quickly shows up. Hit 1 side 1-2 x then other side.
Drive in... Get Bearing Driver Kit! Often as "free tools" at AZ etc. (free if return before 30 - 90 days.) The tool save time and prevent damage. Coat the cone w/ a thin coat of grease.

⚠️ Warning: Front (and back) wheel bearing are Not Pre Loaded and some play is Normal.
See my Cave, Front Bearings

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


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Brent7088
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Report this Post06-30-2020 05:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Brent7088Click Here to Email Brent7088Send a Private Message to Brent7088Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thank you to all who have offered their input about this...

The whole purpose of wanting to remove the rotor was to simply get the rust removed and clean it up. While this is obviously the original rotor, there is actually nothing wrong with it to my knowledge; I had just planned on doing this while in the process of replacing my upper ball joint.

Taking a look at the pics here, does anyone think it would even be necessary to clean it up or would it be a waste of time? I understand if I do, I would need to remove the bearing assembly first, since it would be submerged in a rust remover (planned on vinegar).






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Mike in Sydney
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Report this Post06-30-2020 05:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike in SydneySend a Private Message to Mike in SydneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
deleted. Duplicate post.

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 06-30-2020).]

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Mike in Sydney
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Report this Post06-30-2020 05:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike in SydneySend a Private Message to Mike in SydneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If the is your only issue, I think you're being too particular. The rust on the disk face will go away after a drive and brake use. The rust on the wheel hub is minor and shouldn't affect anything. If it were mine, I'd put a blob of disk brake grease in the bearing cap, put the cap back on the hub and take a wire brush to the hub to knock off any loose rust, put the tire back on it and drive it.

------------------
Mike in Sydney

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 06-30-2020).]

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wftb
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Report this Post06-30-2020 07:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbClick Here to Email wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I agree with Mike. You will likely get dirt in the bearings and have to wash all the old grease out and repack the bearings if you take it all apart.. Put the cap back on, clean it all up with a wire brush and give the hub a coat of paint is all I would do.

------------------
86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms

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theogre
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Report this Post06-30-2020 08:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Clean that?
No point. That is very minor rust.
If installing new pads may need turning if new pads aren't same working area or rotor face has damage.
See my Cave, Brake Rotors Spec

Paint and other methods could make more issues because paint etc traps heat.
Maybe find a rust converter and only for the center hat area. You want something goes on thin. I forget what are thin to "paint" on. Don't remove rust until you read the product label. Many need some rust to work.

Get new seals at minimum Before try to take rear bearing out to repack. Very easy to wreck the seals.

Clean front and back w/ Brake Clean before you put pads on again is a must.
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Brent7088
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Report this Post07-01-2020 04:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Brent7088Click Here to Email Brent7088Send a Private Message to Brent7088Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thank you all for the information... yea, I'll just leave the rotor alone. Sometimes I tend to feel like I have to do more than what's needed while in the process of something unrelated. I did however watch the EricTheCarGuy video posted on another thread and learned how to work on those hubs once it's needed in the future - very informative.

I'll just wire brush/knock off the loose stuff and put it all back together once I get my tie rod and ball joint. I'm assuming I won't need to add any bearing grease to that hub since none was removed (looks pretty good).

Kudos again for the reassurance - saved me some time.
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