I'm trying to replace the front upper ball joints on my 86 GT. I removed the mounting bolts, castle nut and the grease fitting. I tapped the threaded stud from the bottom with pretty good wacks, and even tried prying up on the top between the mount and the control arm and the stubborn thing still won't pop out.
Is there anything I'm forgetting to do? Thanks in advance.
[This message has been edited by Brent7088 (edited 06-26-2020).]
It takes a lot to break the tapered end of the BJ loose....I bought Rodney Dickman's BJ removal tool which goes between the two BJ ends and then expands- Be prepared- when one breaks loose it makes quite a loud sound. Also, leave the nut on but loose by 1/8" to contain it when it pops loose.
[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 06-26-2020).]
Thank you - I'm assuming this tool is for the upper joints. I may just decide to use a fork (even though it may be tougher to get under the collar). I'm not worried about damaging the BJ since it's being replaced.
I had that problem before. Here's what I did. Check to make sure someone didn't tack weld the the BJ from the underside. Put the BJ back in the spindle with the nut on as far as you can, but don't tighten it. Lift the car and put something solid under the lower control arm, but NOT on the grease fitting. Now make sure there's space between the upper control arm and the spindle and pound the top control arm close to the BJ flange with a flat nose of a hammer or dull chisel. Repeat around the flange. I was surprised how stubborn it was but I got it out. Then you should be able to remove the old BJ while the lower control arm is still propped up. Wear safety equipment and exercise caution at all times. Good luck.
Most of the time I hit the part of the knuckle the ball joint stud is inserted into perpendicular to the stud rather than the ball joint stud itself while pulling down on the knuckle. Other note is leave the castle nut on the end of the threads flush with the end of the stud, gives you a larger surface to hit with a hammer but it'll probably damage the threads(doesn't matter here).
I know for sure I removed my passenger side upper ball joint with the pickle fork however I had the lower ball joint disconnected when I did this, might not be able to fit it with the lower still connected.
Could you add a picture or two showing the situation? Some of us haven't done this job yet and we can learn with you
Thank you for adding the picture. Now I see what you are dealing with. Lots of great suggestions are being posted. (But I still don't look forward to that job in the future.)
I don't know if I misunderstand your issue. Is your problem, 1- getting the tapered stud out of the spindle or 2- can't get the bj out of the control arm? I thought #2 is your problem. In that case my post will not help you a bit. Sorry.
Put the nut back on the stud so spring etc hits the nut not you. leave nut 1 or 2 turns loose ref to full tight.
Buy/make a tool above and use it to push out the stud. To help that, bump the side of knuckle hole area w/ a hammer to shake/vibrate the joint area. Do Not "beat" the knuckle, use repeated light hits Between the two, should pop out w/o tighten the tool "to death."
Do Not use a "Pickle Fork" for BJ or Tie rod ends. Rod end used a "press" tool to push out the stud. Can bump the knuckle same as above to pop the taper easier.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Another vote for Rodney's balljoint tool. It locks between the upper and lower balljoint studs. As you unscrew it, it expands and forces against both balljoints. As others have said, leave the nut screwed on, but only loosened a couple of turns. When if finally lets go it'll make a nice "bang". You'll probably never be able to pry it off, and a pickle fork will just tear things up.
Go to the auto parts store and get one of these... It is a breeze once you have this tool.
It's nice to have options... but I fail to see how that tool could be anywhere near as much of a "breeze" to use than Rodney Dickman's BJ removal tool. With Dickman's tool (that doesn't sound right ), both upper and lower ball joints can be loosened... without even repositioning it.
It's nice to have options... but I fail to see how that tool could be anywhere near as much of a "breeze" to use than Rodney Dickman's BJ removal tool. With Dickman's tool (that doesn't sound right ), both upper and lower ball joints can be loosened... without even repositioning it.
Oh I'm just giving another option. I'm sure Rodney's tool works awesome.
Well - I was able to get my hands on a ball joint separator, and I finally got it to pop off (surprisingly it wasn't as loud of a pop as I thought it would be). I'm sure getting the new one in is going to be just as much of a treat as getting it off.
Ordering the RD tool would have been my plan B - I just didn't care to wait an additional 2 weeks for it to arrive (shipping has been Xtra slow lately due to the virus situation). Anyhow I'll be working on the passenger side Saturday as I wait for the new joints to arrive.
I want to thank everyone kindly for chiming in. It's always a pleasure reading helpful advice from experienced folks.
Notorio (and for anyone else): When I get to the passenger side, I can try to get more pics and a few instruction as to how it worked for me.
[This message has been edited by Brent7088 (edited 06-27-2020).]
Ordering the RD tool would have been my plan B - I just didn't care to wait an additional 2 weeks for it to arrive (shipping has been Xtra slow lately due to the virus situation).
Just as a note of interest to anyone reading this thread... as much as I have exalted the use of the RD tool, it's actually super simple to make one. Necessity is the mother of invention, because ordered goods take even longer to reach Canada than they do to Ohio.
⚠️ Warning: Clean knuckle hole and new stud before installing new BJ. Tapers need clean to work right. Tapers do all the real work. Nut mainly holds the taper tight.
quote
Originally posted by Patrick: Just as a note of interest to anyone reading this thread... as much as I have exalted the use of the RD tool, it's actually super simple to make one. Necessity is the mother of invention, because ordered goods take even longer to reach Canada than they do to Ohio.
I make one out of parts from Power Steeling Pulley puller/install kit and 2 iron pipe plumbing fittings. The kit is common and cheap at HF etc. and had one to install L4 WP. Used the screw, nut, and maybe bearing plus an ½ coupler and ½ to ¾ Use ½ coupler to remove LBJ, other to remove UBJ.
Note: any tool listed in any GM FSM is a Kent-Moore tool and often use same PN. (KM is now owned by SPX.)
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 06-27-2020).]
), both upper and lower ball joints can be loosened... without even repositioning it.
