1. Turn key to crank starter 2. Watch the tachometer for a slight rise to about 250 rpm. 3. If the tach needle does not move, primary ignition is not working. ICM, pickup coil, dist magnet or ign. coil. or wires and connectors for those things. 4. If the tach needle moves, try starting fluid in the throttle body. 5. If that runs the car, you have a fuel delivery problem. 6. If the car still won't kick over a few times, you have a secondary ignition problem.....plugs, wires, dist cap....ign. coil.
the tack moves back and forth from 100 to 200 if it is ing problems why do I get good spark at the coil and at the plugs? I sprayed with ether 2 different time no fire??
No I didn't remove it I did pull no1 plug and check rotor to be in no1 plug with timing mark was running and had a code 42 so I changed the ing module and nothing so I extanged it for another one mand still nothing?????
if that was true why am I getting good spark at plugs and coil? l check the prong's ing module the 2 thin plug on r side one wire was pulled back around a 1/8" I push it back in, and tryed to start no start
I am 83 yrs old mechanic, starter at 12 building home made motor bikes, mechanic all my life, never could not start any kind of motor, this is my 5th fiero kit car built. I am overlooking something
Nice to see you, Patrick.........perhaps you can explain to Mr. Jatcko why a good looking spark is sometimes not so good.
From what Michael has stated about his background, I suspect he's aware that testing spark strength by using a regular spark plug gap isn't enough at atmospheric pressure. A healthy spark outside of the combustion chamber will easily jump a quarter inch gap.
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Originally posted by michael jatcko:
got good blue spark from coil
That of course won't factor in any distributor cap and/or rotor issue. Does the spark jump a quarter inch from a spark plug lead?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-22-2020).]
The changing measurements make it seem like there might be issues with the wires/connectors on the pickup coil. It's out now, good time to throw in a new one.
Doing some searching on the forum, one member found their problem to be some bad wires that go from the coil to the ICM. Something else to check.
this might be it?? I ordered a new delco pickup and a new hot coil. the spark was good but not great. find out Friday THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP, GREAT SERVICE A person some time can't get through a brick wall but another person can show there is a door way 2 ft away
I take it then that the spark wouldn't jump a quarter inch gap?
quote
Originally posted by michael jatcko:
I ordered a new delco pickup and a new hot coil.
If it's an aftermarket coil, like an Accel Super Coil, perhaps hold off on using it. There has been plenty posted here over the years that they take their toll on the ignition system and eventually induce failure.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-24-2020).]
still no start?? I have have spark good 5/8" could weld with it. I now have a running or clicking sound at the idle control valve which I never heard before.. how do you check one?. I was thinking I changed the chip to a super chip 6 months ago which run but got worse as I run it. I am thinking about putting the old chip back in???
Where are you located? Maybe there's a member close by that can supply a fresh set of eyes.
Seems like you're knowledgeable of engine basics. Fuel, spark and air. You have spark, you sprayed ether with no luck, air shouldn't be an issue. Unless your timing is 180 degrees out or not actually getting any fuel, it should be at least attempting to start. Can you check fuel pressure to see what it's reading? I don't know anything about Superchips, if you have the original it wouldn't be a bad idea to try it.
[This message has been edited by TM_Fiero (edited 06-28-2020).]
