I know how to bleed, been doing it for years on other vehicles. I use a vacuum bleeder and have good results. Went to replace the master and flush the system, bench bled the master, kept the hoses on it to the very last minute, ... but the Fiero just wasn't having it, especially in the rear. Continously bubbled and the pedal was as soft as a teddy bear.

Finally read through the cave section about how the master isn't level. The car is up on stand and LOOKS level ... but for grins, I'll actually check:



Crap. So much for my ability to judge level! (Yes, I know the snaps aren't right either, but you get the idea.)

Jack up the rear end a bit more, extending the stands accordingly, and now



And whatddyaknow, the damn thing bleeds properly. Bubbles came out the back for a while and then nice, solid fluid.

So, easy thing to check and easy way to check, tip your car like you tip your barista, and a tip of the hat to the Ogre for this tip about bleeding.

-- A

[This message has been edited by dremu (edited 06-06-2020).]

Yup, it's a good tip.

I was able to get my brakes bled this way, even without bench-bleeding the master cylinder.

Yup... Fiero MC is problem to bleed.
Other cars can have same problem.
Even many bench bleed on a real bench but MC isn't level get same problem.

Tip nose down often cause same but bubbles are trap toward rear of likely both pistons.
Might move during install and exit or trap as shown in cave.

Bench bleed "kits" come w/ them can have problem too like the Plastic "Nuts" can leak air around molding defects. you have to check the "flare" side and tube side of them.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

quote Originally posted by theogre: Bench bleed "kits" come w/ them can have problem too like the Plastic "Nuts" can leak air around molding defects. you have to check the "flare" side and tube side of them.

Yeah, the "kit", and I hesitate to call it that, that came with the master, was pretty chintzy, the inserts weren't even threaded, just push-in I have a Dorman one from years ago with a variety of threaded inserts (even labelled as to thread size!) that works nicely. As you say, the threads gotta be good (and kept clean), but this one seems to be well-made and has served me well.

-- A

Most "kits" I've seen have thread but made cheapest are possible and has molding flash etc to allow to leak air.

Yes, Dorman and others make much better kits but most DIY people won't buy for a "once in a lifetime" job.
for my own cars... I replace MC maybe 4 times in 40+ years. I keep a allot of tools but often hard to find or damage after decade between needed. Brake tools even kept clean have parts still goes bad. Even the Best Vac Bleed tools from Mightyvac etc have hoses and other part that fail from B-fuild, etc "eating" them over time.

Example: I have been using same "O2" extension hose for hospital use for brake bleeding for many years because end fitting pushes on any bleeder. Found a few days ago the plastic is getting hard so need to watch for new one.