Poor installation. Age of the rubber boot allows it to crack and separate. Excessive use of grease. Someone fills the boot with grease to the point of it popping the boot free or tearing it.
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 05-20-2020).]
Thanks, but how would any of those 3 possibilities allow the control arm to touch the boot? It is interfering quite a bit. Even if I put on a brand new balljoint and put the correct amount of grease in it, it will rub from the looks of things...
Not sure why the picture loaded sideways, sorry.
[This message has been edited by cam-a-lot (edited 05-20-2020).]
Now that I see the pic... the issue is the KYB shocks. They are longer than stock and allow the suspension to droop down further. The longer length also make them more prone to bottom out internally on lowered cars. I always recommend installing spacers between the lower t-bar and the lower a-arm.
From the picture, you are constantly riding on the (non-stock) bump stops as well.
If you have aftermarket boot like most w/ polly boots they are not made right and won't seal same way as OE or Boots came w/ Moog etc joints.
"Factory" and other "rubber" boots have a hidden metal ring in the base end that hold on the outer joint. Moog and maybe others also have extra vent area on stud end so can't wreck them w/ grease.
For OE and others w/o "Moog vent boots," I made a tool to vent them. small wire or "geek tool" w/ tip bent 90° push into stud opening is often enough to vent grease to prevent tearing them. (if using screwdriver, heat to bend or most will break.)
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I believe it may be your after-market bump stop; 1988 Fiero bump stops are wedge shaped, while yours appears to be a round shape. You may be able to cut away a small portion on the offending side......
Sway bar link is missing for some reason- just noticed it and ordered a new set
I don't think the car rides on the bump stops anymore. It used to when the PO installed springs that were cut far too much and there was no suspension travel.
Good info on the KYB shocks- may try to play with them or replace them to see if the issue is resolved. Bump stops were from TFS- I don't think they are the issue since I recently replaced the front springs to the TFS drop springs, and now I have a lot more suspension travel.
Can someone please comment whether going with Munro shocks would resolve this issue- are they the correct length?
Not really interested in spending a ton of money on trying to find Koni shocks, as this is more of a weekend cruiser and I don't need the best handling. More interested in a comfortable ride
I believe your BUMPSTOP is hitting the boot- you need to cut away the outer edge(Towards the Boot) so that it does not contact the BJ boot. Different shocks will not make any difference as far as your BJ boots are concerned.
The boot is only being pulled apart when the car is on a hoist and there is no weight on the suspension. You can see the metal part of the control arm physically pushing up and against the boot in the picture. I am not sure if I undertand how the bump stop would have anything to do with this? If I was to have a similar picture of another 88 front suspension on a hoist, I assume the control arm is not interfering with the ball joint boot?
Jiminy christmas!!! I am a big ole dumb-dumb......Now I see that I was wrong-o.....
It looks like the Bump stop STOP is what is interfering....Have you cranked in a lot of negative camber? That would close the gap between the BJ and that stop.......Now, either you could crank it back a bit to clear, or you could grind the edge back on that stop.......
(Jeez, I hope I am (Now) seeing it right now (If so, I will mark this day down!)