So what all needs to be done to do the oil pan on a 2.8 car ? I’m sprung a decent amount of leaks coming from the base of the pan I also kinda indented it when I was doing the dodge runner tensioner up grade 🤦‍♂️ So it needs to be done. Does the motor need to be lifted to get done or nah. I also intend to install a new oil pump and pick up tube while I’m there as well.

I was able to R&R my pan just by lifting the front of the engine and removing the engine mount bracket from the engine and the mount from the cradle. I took the exhaust loose at the Y-pipe to cat connection, but did not have to remove the exhaust.

I have an "off-road pipe", so if you have a catalyst that *may* limit the amount the exhaust can move such that working the pan past the exhaust pipe might be more difficult.

What year is your car? Not all the pans are the same, but I do believe all will need the front of the motor lifted to get the pan off. Not much to it after that.

quote Originally posted by Spadesluck: What year is your car? Not all the pans are the same, but I do believe all will need the front of the motor lifted to get the pan off. Not much to it after that.

My car is a 86 gt with a 2.8 4 speed I need to do the trans axle output seals as well since I’m leaking from the drivers side might as well do the passenger side one as well

If you are not able to hoist the motor you can jack it on the pan and then stick a block under the harmonic balancer. I also loosened the rear motor mounts before jacking so they would not be under a lot of strain. I still have a very slow leak from the rear main seal which might be an issue for you as well ...

quote Originally posted by Notorio: If you are not able to hoist the motor you can jack it on the pan and then stick a block under the harmonic balancer. I also loosened the rear motor mounts before jacking so they would not be under a lot of strain. I still have a very slow leak from the rear main seal which might be an issue for you as well ...

Nah definitely not the rear main seal I replaced that when I did the clutch back in June when I first bought the car. I used a leak dye to see all the leaks then a uv light and it’s all around the base of the pan. I got a new pan I’ll be installing next week one day at work 😊. Will be doing axle seals, drivers side axle and new motor mount as well.

[This message has been edited by pontiacfierokid1985 (edited 03-22-2020).]

When I did an oil pan gasket removal years back, I put the floor jack under the pan to support the oil pan. Then I removed the front mount and the front mount bracket. I put a 2 x 4 piece of wood under the front harmonic balancer and the cradle lowered the jack a bit and used that to keep the engine raised a bit. Then I took off all the oil pan bolts and the pan came right down. Then I removed the old gasket, cleaned everything, applied two beads of silicone sealant in the corners around the front and rear main bearing caps, installed the new gasket, pan and put back the oil pan bolts. I definitely did not disconnect or lower down the exhaust. .

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

I made a tiny notch in the enjun mount 20 years ago, knowing I would be the one having the pleasure of this job next time.... Which arrived this year.

Undo bits and drop sump...the jobs a carrot