I am finding impossible to remove the wheel studs. Even at the recommended 4 and 8 positions they won't come out as you can see in the picture. I thought about removing the hub but the bolts are stripped. Anyone have any ideas? I'm stuck on this one. Also, I'm replacing the current studs with longer ones, so if these can't come out, I have no idea how I would get the new ones in.
The hub bolts are stripped and I'm not sure how to get them out. I broke a drill bit and an easy out off in one of them. There isn't much room between the hub and the structure to cut/grind etc.
To get the studs out of the way, you can either pull them back into place with a lug nut + stack of washers, or you can cut then in half with an angle grinder + cutoff wheel.
Easy-outs are almost never the solution to rusted/stuck fasteners... if the original bolt head didn't have the strength to transmit the torque required to break the bolt free, I don't see how the easy-out could work any better.
For the bolts, I would try welding a hex bolt onto the head of your stripped bolts. Then, you'll have a hex you can grab onto with a socket. If the weld breaks, weld it again with a new bolt. The heat should help loosen things; while the bolt head is still hot, shoot some penetrating oil on it.
I don't know how necessary it is to remove the knuckle from the car; it depends if you have a good way to secure the knuckle in a vise off the car. The knuckle is an awkward shape; the car provides a secure hold of the knuckle.
[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 02-24-2020).]
To get the studs out of the way, you can either pull them back into place with a lug nut + stack of washers, or you can cut then in half with an angle grinder + cutoff wheel.
Easy-outs are almost never the solution to rusted/stuck fasteners... if the original bolt head didn't have the strength to transmit the torque required to break the bolt free, I don't see how the easy-out could work any better.
For the bolts, I would try welding a hex bolt onto the head of your stripped bolts. Then, you'll have a hex you can grab onto with a socket. If the weld breaks, weld it again with a new bolt. The heat should help loosen things; while the bolt head is still hot, shoot some penetrating oil on it.
I don't know how necessary it is to remove the knuckle from the car; it depends if you have a good way to secure the knuckle in a vise off the car. The knuckle is an awkward shape; the car provides a secure hold of the knuckle.
I cut the stud bolts and removed them, also, I don't have access to a welder unfortunately. I tried heating the hub bolts, but the heads are round and I can't get a good grip on them. I tried using a pipe wrench, but there just isn't enough room. All of the removal methods that I have read about assume that the bolt is in the open, which is obviously not the case here. I thought about an extractor socket, but any socket that will fit over the bolt head will not fit through the hole in the hub. Bad choice by GM to use a torx bolt with a rounded head.
I don't know how necessary it is to remove the knuckle from the car...
If the OP decides he requires a shop to remove those bolts, it might be more practical to take just the knuckle there as opposed to towing the whole vehicle.
You can cut the studs with a cutting wheel but then be faced with freeing up enough clearance . You will still need to loosen the hub but there are sockets that you can buy that will grab onto rounded nuts. Rounded bolts/nuts removal sockets
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 02-24-2020).]
I finally got them out by heating them, pouring cold water on them, then soaking with penetrating fluid. Then I took the next bigger sized torx bit and hammered it in. Using a pipe on the end of the ratchet, I was able to break them loose.
Originally posted by Chief08: Bad choice by GM to use a torx bolt with a rounded head.
Now's your chance to install bolts that are to your liking!
Not catering to the handyman 30+ years later after the car's end-of-production wasn't necessarily a bad move... the objective of most public companies is to create shareholder value. A Torx bolt may have been the best way to do that.
Now's your chance to install bolts that are to your liking!
Not catering to the handyman 30+ years later after the car's end-of-production wasn't necessarily a bad move... the objective of most public companies is to create shareholder value. A Torx bolt may have been the best way to do that.
I ordered a new set from Rodney Dickman that are Allen head, and I don't plan to remove them ever again.
I ordered a new set from Rodney Dickman that are Allen head, and I don't plan to remove them ever again.
Hubs do go bad and need replacement. Its not often that it happens but if your bearing hubs are high mileage then they could go bad.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
In regards to the first bearings listed, Rodney states: "I offer no guarantee that these will hold up in race cars... You may want to consider using my HD rebuildable 1988 front hubs for your race car." Yet, on the rebuildable bearing page he also clearly states: "Not for racing."
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-26-2020).]
I don't think Rodney wants people to expect a warranty for racing duty... but if you did want to expose your wheel bearings to heavy-duty use, the rebuildable ones would be preferred.
I ordered a new set from Rodney Dickman that are Allen head, and I don't plan to remove them ever again.
LOL... Picking between hex socket and Torx for removing a large fastener in 5-10 years, I'd pick Torx every time. I've had plenty of experiences with rounding out hex sockets. A Torx is much less prone to that as long as the bit is inserted all the way. I've had multiple experiences of seized torx fasteners breaking the drive bit instead of rounding out. Whoever worked on your car before you was a clown and that's not the Torx bolt's fault.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 02-27-2020).]
How about reading the other posts in your thread and not being a douchebag when people answer your questions.
Maybe you could even save a few of your hard earned dollars from being spent on bearings made of cheese by canceling your order with O'Reilly's.
ALL of the units on the retail auto aftermarket are JUNK. There are ZERO better alternatives from common auto parts suppliers.
Rodney's replacements are the only replacements that are worth any time or effort.
First of all you didn't actually answer any of my questions. You didn't chime in with your worthless babble until I mentioned the AC Delco parts. Even then all you said was they are crap, a d you even complained about the hub bolts that I chose. It's easy to ***** and complain while not offering an alternative.
So Will was nice enough to warn you of possible difficulties ahead if you use Allen bolts, but that's not enough for you?
You demand to be spoon-fed alternatives, without doing your own research to find alternate parts?
All he did was trash talk everything I bought without any evidence to back it up, and I'm the bad guy? I didn't demand a damn thing, he was not helpful in anyway, just being an ass. You don't just chime in and say stupid things and then get defensive when someone calls you on it. You both act like he was offering some kind of great advice and I should be thankful, but all he did was make negative comments without offering anything better. I made this post because I needed help, his comments were not helpful. AC Delco is the parts supplier for GM, so I fail to see how that's a bad thing. How would you like it if I came on your thread saying that part you bought is garbage with no explanation? This is starting to get petty now and I really don't want any part of it, I just want to communicate with others that share my love of the Fiero.
[This message has been edited by Chief08 (edited 02-27-2020).]
First of all you didn't actually answer any of my questions. You didn't chime in with your worthless babble until I mentioned the AC Delco parts. Even then all you said was they are crap, a d you even complained about the hub bolts that I chose.
You making bad decisions without asking first isn't my fault.
All he did was trash talk everything I bought without any evidence to back it up, and I'm the bad guy? I didn't demand a damn thing, he was not helpful in anyway, just being an ass. You don't just chime in and say stupid things and then get defensive when someone calls you on it. You both act like he was offering some kind of great advice and I should be thankful, but all he did was make negative comments without offering anything better. I made this post because I needed help, his comments were not helpful. AC Delco is the parts supplier for GM, so I fail to see how that's a bad thing. How would you like it if I came on your thread saying that part you bought is garbage with no explanation? This is starting to get petty now and I really don't want any part of it, I just want to communicate with others that share my love of the Fiero.
Dude, do I need to quote every post in the discussion of Rodney Dickman's hub bearings that occurred immediately above your post about ordering hubs from O'Reilly? That was the good advice you asked for and you still ordered cheese bearings.
ACDelco is a brand that resells parts other companies make. The *ONLY* bearings for the '88 Fiero front on the broader retail market are from the same offshore source, and they're junk. It doesn't matter whose name is on the box. The market for '88 Fiero front bearings is just too small for any business except a specialty supplier like Rodney Dickman to serve.
And get external 12pt bolts from McMaster-Carr instead of hex socket.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 02-27-2020).]
Dude, do I need to quote every post in the discussion of Rodney Dickman's hub bearings that occurred immediately above your post about ordering hubs from O'Reilly? That was the good advice you asked for and you still ordered cheese bearings.
ACDelco is a brand that resells parts other companies make. The *ONLY* bearings for the '88 Fiero front on the broader retail market are from the same offshore source, and they're junk. It doesn't matter whose name is on the box. The market for '88 Fiero front bearings is just too small for any business except a specialty supplier like Rodney Dickman to serve.
And get external 12pt bolts from McMaster-Carr instead of hex socket.
All true. The only 88 front bearing hubs replacements currently made are from our friends the Red Communist Chinese and they are not of good quality. We've seen failures with these hubs within six months of use. Just look online for proof. The steel and seal quality is just not there. In contrast bearings made in the USA, Europe,Canada, Taiwan and Japan are usually very good but most manufacturers have moved their plants to China to make higher profits. I'm not even sure that Timken still builds here. AC Delco used to be good but is now just a re-boxing service that buys from the lowest bidder
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I finally got them out by heating them, pouring cold water on them, then soaking with penetrating fluid. Then I took the next bigger sized torx bit and hammered it in. Using a pipe on the end of the ratchet, I was able to break them loose.
Two days ago I replaced the rear hubs on my Formula. It appears that in '88, Pontiac changed over a lot of the bolts used on the Fiero from hex to Torx. I initially thought the hub bolts were T-50, but the T-50 started to slip in the bolt head. I began to think of this thread. I then discovered with a bit of gentle persuasion that a T-55 fit perfectly. The bolts all came out with a minimum of fuss.
I'm now wondering if this is the issue that the OP had. I'm grateful that I was familiar with this thread, as it didn't take me long to try a bigger Torx when the T-50 started to slip.
