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Drooping eye lid by Sledgehammer
Started on: 02-18-2020 11:41 PM
Replies: 6 (540 views)
Last post by: theogre on 02-19-2020 07:35 PM
Sledgehammer
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Report this Post02-18-2020 11:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SledgehammerSend a Private Message to SledgehammerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Have one headlight (drivers side) that will not open the hood headlight door but works fine with the hood open where it is not required to open the door lid.
I did rebuild the assembly and included new Delron rollers but used the same gear. Maybe the motor is not strong enough! I did check the door lid has same pressure as right side so it’s not the door. So any thoughts would help. Perhaps replace the plastic gear with an aluminum/bronze gear.
(I am not driving with the hood up to solve the problem. Before someone suggests)
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cvxjet
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Report this Post02-19-2020 12:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cvxjetSend a Private Message to cvxjetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You are no fun at ALL! There is a possibility that you have weak connections- either a ground or the actual power wires. Clean all of the connections.

If you do not drive over 70 anywhere, you could remove one of the TWO torsion bars on that door so that there is less return pressure- When I swapped to a hood with better paint, I noticed the new hood had only one torsion bar while my original had two for each door...Then I found out why they had two when I was zipping along on a transfer ramp at 85 and the headlight doors popped up.

I would also suggest that you keep an eye open for an 87 or 88 Fiero in the local JY....take the front light harness, motors and module out and swap them into your Fiero- much better and safer system. (You may already have an 87-88...)
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fierofool
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Report this Post02-19-2020 10:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Changing the gears would have no effect on your problem. If this problem wasn't present before the rebuild, it may be that you lost one of the brushes on the limiter switch when you reinstalled it. The motor isn't generating enough torque to overcome the headlight doors.

Don't lube any of the mechanism with any oils or greases. You can lube the joints with a dry silicone spray. Try swapping the motor relays and see if the problem transfers to the other headlight. The motor relays are still available at most auto parts stores.
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css9450
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Report this Post02-19-2020 01:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Sledgehammer:

I did rebuild the assembly and included new Delron rollers but used the same gear.


Is it possible that the large gear has a crack in it?

Mine would raise partway, then the gearshaft (or worm?) would encounter a little wide spot where the large gear was cracked, and that wide spot was just wide enough that it would no longer engage the cogs and thus would not turn the large gear. But if I raised the hood beforehand, the sprung weight of the headlight doors was lifted and the headlights would come up all the way.

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theogre
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Report this Post02-19-2020 02:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Motor is "bad" and/or Module is shutting off power thinking motor and lift assem is jammed.
See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor

Just get new motors. Cardone AZ and maybe a few others has life time warranty.

DIY "Rebuilding" is a sad joke helping push by vendors sell parts.
When you install Delrin pins expect output shaft and/or gear will break later. //www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/128600.html
Even if you get brass gear the output shaft can, often will, break. "Fixing" a broke output shaft can cause it to break again or whatever is weak.

HL lift only touches the Door in 2 - 4 spots. Many install wrong and cause binding like HL Trim hit hood hole or door anywhere else beside the bearing points.
Worse, Many idiots cut off the bearing points doing "HL Mods" and lift grinds the door causing many problems.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-19-2020).]

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Sledgehammer
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Report this Post02-19-2020 06:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SledgehammerSend a Private Message to SledgehammerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

One thing I did forget to mention : My Fiero is a 1987 so it has the newer technology motors. In addition, I notice when the hood is open and I turn on the headlights both headlights appear to lift all the way to max at the same speed. When I rebuilt the units I did not pull the motors out. In the process the left unit had the delron pins turned to dust inside. I cleaned it out and placed new delron pins inside. So, I guess the question also what causes the delron pins to get crushed to dust? Perhaps the condition is still there and the new ones are being damaged. There is a new aluminum gear in this one also.
Hope this helps a little.

I appreciate all the feedback and help .
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theogre
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Report this Post02-19-2020 07:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Sledgehammer:
One thing I did forget to mention : My Fiero is a 1987 so it has the newer technology motors. In addition, I notice when the hood is open and I turn on the headlights both headlights appear to lift all the way to max at the same speed. When I rebuilt the units I did not pull the motors out. In the process the left unit had the delron pins turned to dust inside. I cleaned it out and placed new delron pins inside. So, I guess the question also what causes the delron pins to get crushed to dust? Perhaps the condition is still there and the new ones are being damaged. There is a new aluminum gear in this one also.
Hope this helps a little.

I appreciate all the feedback and help .
Is called Delrin and is another DuPont Brand Name plastic relative to Nylon also a DuPont name.

Delrin is only used for Gen2 motors for 87+ and some older cars converted to Gen2.

Read the links I posted above.

Why Gen2 Motor die in short...
GM Never used Delrin pins there. Plastic type is one of the polyurethane family because was made Weaker on purpose then the Gear and Output Shaft to take the impact loads at End of Travel when door are open close or is Jammed. They "get crushed to dust" Because the pins get old and wear out then gear will crush them easy. Shape of inside of Gear and output shaft is made so when pins fail that won't damage either. Ford and others use same thing in PW motors etc.

Only others Sell Derlin pins/dowels/rollers/whatever that won't eat the loads at EoT and Jamming. Many fools try to use steel and other crap and will do same thing breaking next weak part.

Then add... New Aluminum or other Metal gear w/ Delrin pins can break the output shaft or strip teeth for lube and/or load problems.
Worm gearing (Google) puts big loads on the gears and can soon wear out teeth. Worse w/o proper lube on teeth and bearings.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-20-2020).]

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