Yes, just carefully push in the terminals to push out the board. Some are tighter then others but all "gen2" units should do same.
| | | quote | Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
An often overlooked part. On most of the Fieros that I have owned this chime box doesn't work. I wonder if anyone has found a way to repair them? |
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You read my Cave,
Chime Unit then you know biggest problem and how to fix for 15+ years.
All,
"GM" Chime units for many cars fails and often for same reason because same Lectron "boards" are used in Millions of GM vehicle w/ minor changes for car model/year.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...HTML/143278.html#p17Heavy metal part of the speaker in used as a jumper w/ all "ears" solder to the board connecting to terminal G/3 main ground.
Metal is too big to wave solder when made plus on "Gen2" unit metal end near terminals the copper on board isn't a closed pad between the two issues solder fails over time. (A bigger complete pad won't fit there.)
Even w/o the weak pad the solder can fail at any/all joints to the speaker "Bridge" part.
May have a crack joint for main terminals but most are cause by the bride not making connections at all solder spots.
Why is this a problem?Wave Soldering use to make this is hard to setup when 1 heavy part is way bigger then all of parts on the board. Big parts need more time and heat but small parts fail when heated too much.
Wave Soldering Machine YT (Board in, preheat oven, wave solder, board exit.)
Incomplete pads won't help and more so when have copper on one side of the board.
SMD Oven/"reflow" soldering now are same way to make nearly everything. Big parts often have weak joints then add RoHS lead free solders that has problems too.
Solder is "easy" enough but need higher Watt iron/gun to do it w/o lifting the trace.
I used 90-120 Weller Gun to quick heat the metal part then move tip to heat trace fast then add Lead base solder. That takes Seconds for small ends a bit more for the middle. Even then Don't touch middle if joint is ok. most issues are on the small bridge ends.
Small irons, under 30w, can take too long to way to long to heat the bridge metal and cause lifting trace(s). Many have Cheap small irons make more issues. Try heating metal first until see most solder melt then touch the trace too to melt the rest fast and quickly add
small diameter flux core solder as needed. (small daim like
.032" melts faster then most get radio shack et al.)
Even then may heat the metal causing large expansion then could crack the joint when cold.
Do Not use lead free solder needs high heat.
Carefully Remove the speaker box before heating. Loop "ears" clip on the metal and easily break. If broken try hot melt glue.
If this
Isn't the problem... Can be anything on the board. A bad chip(s), bad cap, etc. but often not a crack solder joint.
"Gen1" units built as shown in US Patents use a thermistor to make tones. That may die or anything else. "Gen2" less crowded but parts can die.
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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
