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Brake line issur by rice.1
Started on: 01-26-2020 09:29 PM
Replies: 4 (153 views)
Last post by: rice.1 on 01-27-2020 07:28 PM
rice.1
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Report this Post01-26-2020 09:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rice.1Send a Private Message to rice.1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've been working on replacing all my brake lines with TFS brake line set. (85 SE)

When I went to thread the rear brake line fitting into the junction next to the reservoir (dont know the name. The block the rear and two front lines feed in to at the bottom and side), the rear line got tight. This was after I threaded in with my finger to get it started, and was confident it was threading right. It got tight right away, and I went just slightly further, but decided I better not, and back it out. It appears like the thread on the fitting was damaged.

Now I'm thinking about my options, but decided i better ask to get the better option. I was thinking I could either use a die to try and clean the thread, but was told it could be a taper type? If so, what is the name of it? I heard NPT, does that sound correct?

I could get a new fitting and a flare tool. If this route, what size fitting would I need? And is there a specific flare tool I should get?

Could I use a bolt to test if the block thread has been damaged? If so, what size? And if the threading is damaged, is there a specific tap to get?

Should I force it and see if it repairs itself? If not, I'd be looking at a new block, and flaring with a new fitting.

Just say screw it and since I'm wanting to sell it anyways, make someone a good deal? Haha.

Thank you.

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1987 Fiero GT
1985 Fiero 2M4

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olejoedad
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Report this Post01-27-2020 06:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Do not cut the line and try to re-flare!
The stainless lines are very hard and will not flare using hand flaring tools.

Loosen the 'block' from its bracket before trying to install the brake lines.
Having the block loose makes the job installing the lines much easier.
Get all of the lines installed in the 'block' before the final tightening of the fittings.
Use a thread file to repair the threads on the fitting.
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rice.1
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Report this Post01-27-2020 08:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rice.1Send a Private Message to rice.1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks, Olejoe.

I had the block loosened, but still had the issue.

I'm going to cut the old fitting off, thread it into the block to make sure the blocks threads aren't damaged. If that's fine, I'm going to try a file and see if I cant repair the thread.

If that doesnt work, I'm going to take the line to a mechanic to have them use a die to repair the thread.

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1985 Fiero 2M4

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olejoedad
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Report this Post01-27-2020 10:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sounds like a solid plan.
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rice.1
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Report this Post01-27-2020 07:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rice.1Send a Private Message to rice.1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Crisis averted!

Ended up using a hacksaw and cleaning the thread, and that did the trick.

Dang was that a pita to thread into the block! Took about an hour, but I finally got it.

Still need to install new front hoses, and button up the spare truck tray, then can consider this project done.

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1987 Fiero GT
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