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brakes question by checkmate racing
Started on: 11-29-2019 03:39 PM
Replies: 6 (155 views)
Last post by: theogre on 12-01-2019 09:21 PM
checkmate racing
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Report this Post11-29-2019 03:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for checkmate racingClick Here to Email checkmate racingSend a Private Message to checkmate racingReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
i just replaced all 4 calipers on my 87 gt i put the quick bleed screws and pressed the pedal to bleed the brakes they are a little better then what they were but when i press on the brakes i get all kinds of air bubbles in the rear of the master cylinder did i do something wrong or is there just still air in the system or should i replace the mc and proportioning valve

any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
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cvxjet
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Report this Post11-29-2019 07:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cvxjetClick Here to Email cvxjetSend a Private Message to cvxjetReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You need to fully bleed the brakes- start at the right rear (Supposedly the longest line) and once done there move to the left rear, then left front and finally the right front.....If you don't have someone to help you use a 2x4 to prop the brake pedal before closing the bleed valve at whichever caliper you are bleeding at the moment...

Do not let the Master cylinder run low while bleeding the brakes!
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Gall757
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Report this Post11-29-2019 09:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Reply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What's the correct order to bleed brakes?

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 11-29-2019).]

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theogre
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Report this Post11-29-2019 11:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
"Speed Bleeder" are often crap.
Even if might work now, they hold more brake fluid that draws water then that causes corrosion problems.

If you replace calipers then expect to use a Quart of fluid to flush and fill the system.
If you "pedal bleed" then note can "ruin" the MC w/ dirt/corrosion problems.
See my Cave, Brake Service, Brake Fluid and rest of section.

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darbysan
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Report this Post12-01-2019 10:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for darbysanClick Here to Email darbysanSend a Private Message to darbysanReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
On most cars, the "t" joint at the rear is near the middle of the car, so the RR,LR,RF,LF sequence is correct. On the Fiero, the "T" in the rear is just above the RR wheel, with a long line that goes along the trunk to the LR wheel, making it the furthest point. So on the Fiero, LR,RR,RF,LF is the correct sequence.

As for the speed bleeders, I've had issues with them in the past. I've also tried to Vacuum bleed, but have similar problems of air getting past the threads. Pressure bleeding works good, or the old pump the peddle method (2 Person job).
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checkmate racing
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Report this Post12-01-2019 07:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for checkmate racingClick Here to Email checkmate racingSend a Private Message to checkmate racingReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
ok thanks..should i do the old pump method with or without the speed bleeders
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theogre
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Report this Post12-01-2019 09:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by checkmate racing:
ok thanks..should i do the old pump method with or without the speed bleeders
Neither unless you're 100% sure the MC doesn't have problems.
Read my cave.
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