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Need help with reviving a GT by creaky78
Started on: 10-27-2019 05:23 PM
Replies: 11 (287 views)
Last post by: creaky78 on 11-03-2019 04:15 PM
creaky78
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Report this Post10-27-2019 05:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for creaky78Click Here to Email creaky78Send a Private Message to creaky78Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

New guy on the block here. Bought a decent looking '87 GT about 4 years ago, 2.8, Th125. Finally getting around to making it roadworthy. The engine was running when I bought it, although roughly. Hard to start, stalled when cold, got better when warmed up. So far, I have replaced the TPS, it had one on it from some other unknown GM car, couldn't identify it. A few vacuum leaks, got that taken care of . Ignition timing was pretty far off. Cooling fan motor was shot, got that replaced. ECU temperature sensor bad, got that fixed. Engine now running as it should. Still have a few problems, hope you guys can help me with.

1. Cooling fan runs constantly when key is on. The green/white wire from the fan switch is grounded even when disconnected from the switch. I cut the wire, fan didn't run with key on. Didn't run when the A/C was turned on (A/C is working OK). I assume the green/white wire is grounded somewhere in the harness?

2. Instrument panel gauges seem to be accurate sometimes, sometimes not, no warning lamps when the key is turned on.

3. I'm going to do some paint touch up. The upper color is 77, but can't find the code for the silver on the lower trim.

4. Transmission works fine except it won't shift until it hits 3800 RPM. Governer?? TV cable is adjusted properly.

That's about it for now, any help will be greatly appreciated.

CC

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Gall757
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Report this Post10-28-2019 11:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by creaky78:

3. I'm going to do some paint touch up. The upper color is 77, but can't find the code for the silver on the lower trim.



That's called Medium Gray Metallic. it is code 18L, or GM # WA-7719

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creaky78
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Report this Post10-28-2019 11:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for creaky78Click Here to Email creaky78Send a Private Message to creaky78Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks Gall 757.

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creaky78
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Report this Post10-29-2019 03:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for creaky78Click Here to Email creaky78Send a Private Message to creaky78Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Removed the governor. Looks OK, nothing stuck or immovable. The small blade is stamped 2M, the larger stamped U3. Is this the correct part for a GX3 tranny?

[This message has been edited by creaky78 (edited 10-29-2019).]

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creaky78
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Report this Post10-31-2019 04:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for creaky78Click Here to Email creaky78Send a Private Message to creaky78Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Found the source keeping the cooling fan running all the time with the key on. The A/C high pressure switch is faulty and was grounding the green/white wire connected to the fan. The fan now runs when A/C is turned on. Now I need to figure out why the warning lamps on the instrument panel do not light up when the key is turned on.

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MarkS
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Report this Post11-01-2019 07:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MarkSClick Here to Email MarkSSend a Private Message to MarkSEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by creaky78:

Found the source keeping the cooling fan running all the time with the key on. The A/C high pressure switch is faulty and was grounding the green/white wire connected to the fan. The fan now runs when A/C is turned on. Now I need to figure out why the warning lamps on the instrument panel do not light up when the key is turned on.


Which warning lights? All of them? BTW, how many miles on it?

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creaky78
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Report this Post11-01-2019 09:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for creaky78Click Here to Email creaky78Send a Private Message to creaky78Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The check engine light comes on when the key is switched on, goes off when the engine starts. The door ajar light also comes on, none others. Odo shows 103K.

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MarkS
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Report this Post11-02-2019 06:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MarkSClick Here to Email MarkSSend a Private Message to MarkSEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by creaky78:

The check engine light comes on when the key is switched on, goes off when the engine starts. The door ajar light also comes on, none others. Odo shows 103K.


Good news about the check engine light. The turn signal lights and high beam indicators are ok or no?

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creaky78
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Report this Post11-02-2019 06:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for creaky78Click Here to Email creaky78Send a Private Message to creaky78Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Turn signal indicators and high beam indicator working.

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creaky78
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Report this Post11-02-2019 03:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for creaky78Click Here to Email creaky78Send a Private Message to creaky78Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Made some good progress today. A PO had messed with the "idle" screw, cap was missing. Did the procedure (found it on this forum, THANKS) to properly adjust it, cleaned the dirty IAC pintle, sprayed carb cleaner into the IAC port and the on the cruddy looking butterfly plate. Engine now idles very smoothly at 1000 RPM, comes off idle with no hesitation, returns to idle as it should. I had removed the tranny governor the other day, it looked OK, so I reinstalled it. Now, amazingly, the tranny shifts just as it should. Not sure what was responsible for this, but I'm sure happy about it. Also started on repairing the chipped areas of the roof at the junction at the top of the windshield, now ready for priming and sanding. I'll probably wait until next spring to put on the paint. If I can now figure out why the warning lamps are dead.......

[This message has been edited by creaky78 (edited 11-02-2019).]

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MarkS
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Report this Post11-03-2019 08:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MarkSClick Here to Email MarkSSend a Private Message to MarkSEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by creaky78:

Made some good progress today. A PO had messed with the "idle" screw, cap was missing. Did the procedure (found it on this forum, THANKS) to properly adjust it, cleaned the dirty IAC pintle, sprayed carb cleaner into the IAC port and the on the cruddy looking butterfly plate. Engine now idles very smoothly at 1000 RPM, comes off idle with no hesitation, returns to idle as it should. I had removed the tranny governor the other day, it looked OK, so I reinstalled it. Now, amazingly, the tranny shifts just as it should. Not sure what was responsible for this, but I'm sure happy about it. Also started on repairing the chipped areas of the roof at the junction at the top of the windshield, now ready for priming and sanding. I'll probably wait until next spring to put on the paint. If I can now figure out why the warning lamps are dead.......



Seems a lot of the lamps do work in the IP cluster, which ones don't? If memory serves, the engine temp warning light won't come on unless it actually overheats. I think this was a GM mistake in the harness and why the temp gauge pegs when you turn the key to start, it should have illuminated the light.

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creaky78
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Report this Post11-03-2019 04:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for creaky78Click Here to Email creaky78Send a Private Message to creaky78Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The check engine lamp and the door ajar lamp light up when the key is turned on, none of the others.

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