How in the heck do you disconnect the driver's side segment of the emergency brake cable from the cradle?

The e-brake cables have 3 tabs that anchor the cable into the cradle. You have to push in the tabs, so they can pass through the hole. You can try to push them in one-by-one with a screwdriver (which is annoying). Or if you're replacing the cable, you can cut the end off and slip an appropriately sized socket over it, and use the socket the depress the tabs.

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: The e-brake cables have 3 tabs that anchor the cable into the cradle. You have to push in the tabs, so they can pass through the hole. You can try to push them in one-by-one with a screwdriver (which is annoying). Or if you're replacing the cable, you can cut the end off and slip an appropriately sized socket over it, and use the socket the depress the tabs.

I’m aware of the three tab things. The 88 cables have them (this is an 87 I’m working on), but don’t attach to the cradle the same way and route differently. The other side has that, this side looks like a solid piece. I don’t see or feel any tabs.

quote Originally posted by fierobear: I’m aware of the three tab things. The 88 cables have them (this is an 87 I’m working on), but don’t attach to the cradle the same way and route differently. The other side has that, this side looks like a solid piece. I don’t see or feel any tabs.

The 87 should also have them, my 86 brake cables had them and they should be the same on the 87. Can you post a picture of the cable on the other side of the cradle? Either way I just use a deep socket to remove the cables. No need to cut the end off, you can pull the cable all the way back so the end is tight up against the 3-tab thing. Worst case the cable comes through the hole in the socket.

It has 3 ears like he said above. Same as the caliper end.
Look in the frame in next hole to see them.

If you replace them just put small flat screwdriver under each ear and open to break them. Ears are harder steel and doesn't bend much before breaking.

To save them small worm hose clamp to compress the ears. Is a pain but might work better then trying to compress then rotate each ear thru hole.
Clamp has to be all the way open to try and a big pain to install and try to close. Plus likely have clean the ears and inside frame there too.

Caliper end ears are easy to compress or break. Do that end first so have more slack for frame ends.

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(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

I gave this another close look, and felt around with my bare finger instead of with the heavy nitrile gloves on and found the tabs. I should be able to work it out now. Thanks.

quote Originally posted by fierobear: I gave this another close look, and felt around with my bare finger instead of with the heavy nitrile gloves on and found the tabs. I should be able to work it out now. Thanks.

Good luck. I did this job twice and the second time around was no easier than the first. You will be amazed at how difficult it is to depress 3 simple fingers just to release a simple brake cable end. Hint... break 1 finger off and you'll find that the other 2 will depress enough to work it free. I think theogre and I are on the same page with this.

The hand brake cable is also quite a venture. I won't spoil the surprise but you'll find out if or when you pull the old one out!!

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

quote Originally posted by Spoon: Good luck. I did this job twice and the second time around was no easier than the first. You will be amazed at how difficult it is to depress 3 simple fingers just to release a simple brake cable end. Hint... break 1 finger off and you'll find that the other 2 will depress enough to work it free. I think theogre and I are on the same page with this. The hand brake cable is also quite a venture. I won't spoil the surprise but you'll find out if or when you pull the old one out!! Spoon

I finally got it done. I figured out that using an angled pry bar to put pressure on one tab at a time while pulling the cable outward did the trick. Also tapped on each tab with a hammer to flatten them. Worked my way around, then POP it came out.

I recently had to reinstall an e-brake handle on one of my dead Fieros so that I could relocate it but be able to stop it from rolling at the right time. With less than sufficient slack in the cable, it was an adventure in creative vice gripping, pry barring and curse words. But I got it done.

I believe there's a hole in the bottom of the cradle directly underneath the latches. Your cradle is sitting on the pallet so the hole is hidden. The hole is there for 2 purposes. Drains water and debris from the cable and gives access to the latches.

You can also take a thin wall 12 point 3/8 drive 10 mm socket and slide it over the cable end. Press it against the latches and they will release. The same socket will work to release the latches on the cable at the e-brake lever where it passes through the mount on the control arm.