For the headlight door for the Headlights on the hood, is there a way to loosen it or allow it to not be as tight. My headlight is having a hard time pushing through it due to how tight it is and it's making the motor get very hot. I was thinking just putting WD40 on the rotating parts but I wasn't sure if maybe there was something there making it tight that could be loosened. Thank you!
Do not loosen anything. The motors are probably not getting the Amperage they used to. Disconnect the battery and clean the electrical connections at the motor.
A) Do not put any grease/lub on the nyliner bushings- you can clean them tho. B) Cleaning the wiring connections may help, but C) I just had both motors on my 85 try to run on/catch fire, so I swapped out the harness/control/motors for 87-88 2nd gen system...Much better and the motors are safer. Watch for an 87-88 in the junkyards in your area and grab the harness and controller- the motors are available new or rebuilt on Amazon, Summit, etc.
Check JYs on "Row 52" using your zip code...I already checked and there are 85-86s but no later ones at the moment...
I am also doing a mod article for on Pennock's about placing a relay in the power wire to the motors- they would only have power when the key was on, so you don't have to worry after you park in your garage and go in for the night- if you hear sirens and you look out and the garage is on fire, it won't be because of the headlight motors!
I know for certain it is not the motor itself because when the hood is up it works perfectly fine. If it was the connection to the motor it would still be having troubles if the hood was up if I'm not mistaken. I'll try cleaning all the connection points in a little bit and will update the thread later. Thank you both very much!
There are two places the headlight mechanism contacts the headlight door. Two teflon strips are in those areas. Be sure both rub points are equally spaced from the headlight door. If the headlight mechanism isn't square to the door, it may bind. Square up the mechanism. You can use a dry silicone spray on the nylon bushings without harming them but any other lube that's wet or petroleum based can create more problems to include attracting dust and debris and deterioration.
Some people have reported removing one of the springs on the headlight door, but I suspect that may cause other issues, like air pressure lifting the doors at normal highway speeds.
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 10-21-2019).]
The motor(s) get hot is NOT a door problem. The motors should be shutting down for any "jamming" problem and Not heat the Motor(s). Lift motors that won't do this can burn the system to the whole car.
There are two versions of HL motors. See my Cave, Gen 1 HL Motor and Gen 2 HL Motor Put Year etc Every Time you post a problem. We aren't mind readers and do not wast to wast time.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Update: I did some testing last night after work and it is most definitely an electrical problem. Thank you to you guys for the help in deducting that for me. There is something there that is just not getting enough power so the motor can't break through properly. It's a Gen 1 passenger side motor that was rebuilt from a dealer. That being said I may need some guidance in trying to fix this. Has anyone else had the issue of the Headlight motor not getting enough power? If so how do you go about checking for where the problem is/fixing it. I'm sorry for my lack of understanding for all of this, I'm fairly new to Cars and Car Fourms so I'm still learning. Thank you!
I found that my new hood was missing a spring from each side because I was leaving a Tonda-boy behind thru a turn and then got up to 80 mph and the HL doors flipped up. (I replaced the extra springs) You could remove one spring from each side- and then not exceed 75 mph (AIR speed!)....
You can also swap the relay from the passenger side with the driver side - you could have a relay that is burnt and not making proper contact inside allowing full current to pass.
