I am installing a new oil pump while I replace my leaking oil pan gasket. I have seen some talk about priming the oil pump by removing the distributor and turning the oil pump shaft with a drill (I would rather not pull the distributor out), some posts say to pack the pump with vaseline, and others say to remove the coil wire and turn it over. Is there another way to ensure proper pressure when I start it back up? I do have a manual gauge that I can connect to the sender mount to verify pressure. It's a 86 gt with a stock 2.8. If I pull the distributor, do I need to worry about the timing being messed up? I do not have any experience setting timing, so I would rather avoid it all together!

quote Originally posted by Mct2green: If I pull the distributor, do I need to worry about the timing being messed up? I do not have any experience setting timing, so I would rather avoid it all together!

What makes you believe the timing is correct now?

You're changing the oil pump, but you're afraid of setting the ignition timing? I just don't get it!

IMO, anyone who works on their own Fiero needs to be able to set their ignition timing. It's basic maintenance.

Thanks for the informative reply! You offered no information and gave criticism too! Very helpful.... You obviously own a computer, do you know how to write code? As per your logic, you should. Thanks again. M-

What's with posters not graciously accepting help? Patrick offers useful information (apparently you're currently blind to it), and then you blow a gasket?

I own a computer, and I can write code in the C language. That's completely irrelevant to the subject of oil system priming.

quote Originally posted by Mct2green: I have seen some talk about priming the oil pump by removing the distributor and turning the oil pump shaft with a drill (I would rather not pull the distributor out), some posts say to pack the pump with vaseline, and others say to remove the coil wire and turn it over.

The three methods outlined:
1. Remove distributor, turn shaft with drill. Normally, if the procedure is performed, the shaft is not simply turned with a drill; a distributor modified into an oil priming tool is used.
2. Pack pump with vaseline. Sounds OK to me. Can be used in conjunction with #3.
3. Pull coil wire. Ideally, to prevent ignition module / coil damage, the coil wire should not be disconnected. Disconnect the fuel pump instead.

quote Originally posted by Mct2green: If I pull the distributor, do I need to worry about the timing being messed up? I do not have any experience setting timing, so I would rather avoid it all together!

Pulling the distributor requires resetting the timing afterwards.

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 10-15-2019).]

Thank you for the info.

My point with Patrick’s post is that just because you own something doesn’t mean you know everything about it. I was looking for help, not criticism. I grew up post distributors, so I have no experience with timing. People should understand that not everyone has the same level of knowledge that they do.

Priming the oil pump is a standard practice for engine overhauls. This distributes oil to a dry engine.

Replacing an oil pump shouldn't warrant oil pump priming, except for peace of mind that the new pump works. Pulling your injector fuses and cranking the engine while watching your oil pressure gauge should work well enough even if the gauge is inaccurate. Hope you didn't opt for a high volume pump!

But if you decide to take your distributor you don't have to reset timing if it was good from the beginning.
You do have to make sure you mark the distributor case in relation to the intake manifold and also take the rotor off
and mark the reference sensor gear in the shaft relation to the case of the distributor.
When you re install the distributor just make sure that those marks match, tight the distributor and you are good to go.

Rei

Thanks for the info. I should mark the distributor case to the manifold and the button to the distributor correct? What are the issues with a high flow pump?

Since your engine is already pre-lubed (you're only replacing the pump), you shouldn't need to pull the distributer. I would suggest cranking the engine with the coil wire disconnected, until you see oil pressure on the gauge. You won't get much oil pressure, because the engine is just cranking. After that, you should be good to go.

quote Originally posted by Mct2green: Thanks for the info. I should mark the distributor case to the manifold and the button to the distributor correct? What are the issues with a high flow pump?

Correct on the distributor. You don't need high volume, standard should be good enough for you. If you have a big oil cooler
and a remote oil filter with bigger filter then then the high volume is preferred. It'll also tax you on a couple of HP.

Rei

I would concur with packing the oil pump with Vaseline then also using a pressurized pre-oiler if you don't want to spin the engine.

A high flow pump will empty your stock oil pan. You'll basically fill the valve covers with oil that can't drain back to the pan fast enough. I wouldn't use a high volume pump unless I added a massive capacity oil pan. Nothing wrong with a stock replacement pump.

quote Originally posted by Mct2green: You obviously own a computer, do you know how to write code? As per your logic, you should.

Very poor analogy.

quote Originally posted by Mct2green: My point with Patrick’s post is that just because you own something doesn’t mean you know everything about it. I was looking for help, not criticism. I grew up post distributors, so I have no experience with timing. People should understand that not everyone has the same level of knowledge that they do.

You currently own a car with a distributor. You may or may not need to remove it due to what you were inquiring about. I was addressing that possibility. You may have other reasons someday to pull the distributor and/or to re-time the ignition. Re-read what I posted, with emphasis on the bolded comment.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: IMO, anyone who works on their own Fiero needs to be able to set their ignition timing. It's basic maintenance.

If you can handle an oil pump replacement, you can easily set the ignition timing.

so I installed the new oil pump (standard volume) and new oil pan gasket. submerged the oil pump in oil and turned shaft until oil come through the pump before installing. Turning engine over with coil disconnected shows no pressure. What do you guys recommend I do? The engine is not going through a overhaul. It only has 35k miles on it. also replaced a transmission output seal when doing all this work. I cannot get the VSS out of the transmission. I pulled the 10mm bolt and the the little retainer on the bolt, but I cant get the VSS out. I do not want to mess it up trying to get it out the wrong way. Anyone have any tips on getting that sucker out? Can I fill the transaxle from another location? I did drain it entirely before replacing the seal.

Pressure popped up within 5 seconds of cranking. Thanks for all the replies.