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Replacement Coolant pipes by ChuckR
Started on: 10-04-2019 09:26 AM
Replies: 11 (232 views)
Last post by: Mickey_Moose on 10-07-2019 06:09 PM
ChuckR
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Report this Post10-04-2019 09:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ChuckRClick Here to Email ChuckRSend a Private Message to ChuckREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I know this topic has been gone over several times, however the search function did not turn up an answer for me. Could be I am not using the right terms.. On to my question. I think I need to replace a crushed pipe, drivers side. it is hard to see if it is crushed, not obvious on the underside but i had my hand up on top and it feels like it isnt round toward the rear about 1' from end. i know getting a take off from a parts car is one solution, However these parts are getting scarce in good condition. My thoughts were to replace the pipe with new material. The obvious option is to use 304 stainless piping. but 304 still rusts so this is going to be something to think about on making one from this. What about using aluminum pipe? is that feasible? PVC? i know it isnt pretty but it is readily available, easy to work with but i can see road debris being an issue on breaking PVC. What kind of solutions have you all found? I believe the OD needs to be 1.25" since all of the hoses that say from rad to pipe, pipe to pipe, pipe to engine all say they are 1.25 ID. if using 304 SS what wall thickness is needed? or same result different way to ask, What should the ID be on a replacement pipe?

Thanks
Chuck

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olejoedad
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Report this Post10-04-2019 10:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Are you having overheating issues?

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Akheron
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Report this Post10-04-2019 11:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AkheronSend a Private Message to AkheronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Check with Rodney Dickman. He is in the process of making custom stainless replacements . His website says that they should be ready for sale in late October.

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ChuckR
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Report this Post10-04-2019 12:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ChuckRClick Here to Email ChuckRSend a Private Message to ChuckREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

Are you having overheating issues?


It is hard to tell since the temp gauge doesnt work despite replacing the temp sensors. I am not boiling over but it does seem as if the engine bay is incredibly hot. I also seem to have had a coil go bad again, less than 200 miles on it. The dummy light comes on really dim and can only be seen at night. I have seen the light come on bright during the day on a full overheat, There is also a fan issue the fan switch will not work, I have to turn on the AC to keep it running. The PO did not tell me that so I learned the hard way. The motor was supposedly completely rebuilt before I purchased the car so I assumed the water pump and thermostat had been changed then. (there is evidence that the motor had in fact been removed so I believe it had been rebuilt and it is completely free of dirt and oil.) So I believe that it is either a damaged pipe or the radiator. This is why I asked if you had a radiator as part of your parts clean up sale. Either way I need to replace because I am doing a motor swap in the future and I want to make sure I do not overheat a motor with aluminum heads, 3.9L.

I just looked at Rodney's pipes and he says 150 per side and that is a fair price depending on shipping costs.

It still is worth the discussion of what to do if you want to fab your own since some will want to have that custom and others may have ability and not money.

Thanks
Chuck

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olejoedad
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Report this Post10-04-2019 03:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Fabbing 88 undercar cooling tubes would be quite the feat, even with the proper materials and equipment. There are a lot of bends!

The undercar tubes do get bent, but it takes quite a bend or pinch to restrict flow enough to cause cooling problems.

Can you post a picture of the area of your tube that is restricted?

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post10-04-2019 06:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

If you do not have the 88 model, the Fiero Store sells replacement cooling pipes for the 85-87's w the 2.8L

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gtoformula
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Report this Post10-04-2019 08:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtoformulaClick Here to Email gtoformulaSend a Private Message to gtoformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

PM sent.

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AsaBergman
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Report this Post10-05-2019 01:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AsaBergmanClick Here to Email AsaBergmanSend a Private Message to AsaBergmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ChuckR:


It is hard to tell since the temp gauge doesnt work despite replacing the temp sensors. I am not boiling over but it does seem as if the engine bay is incredibly hot. I also seem to have had a coil go bad again, less than 200 miles on it. The dummy light comes on really dim and can only be seen at night. I have seen the light come on bright during the day on a full overheat, There is also a fan issue the fan switch will not work, I have to turn on the AC to keep it running. The PO did not tell me that so I learned the hard way. The motor was supposedly completely rebuilt before I purchased the car so I assumed the water pump and thermostat had been changed then. (there is evidence that the motor had in fact been removed so I believe it had been rebuilt and it is completely free of dirt and oil.) So I believe that it is either a damaged pipe or the radiator. This is why I asked if you had a radiator as part of your parts clean up sale. Either way I need to replace because I am doing a motor swap in the future and I want to make sure I do not overheat a motor with aluminum heads, 3.9L.

I just looked at Rodney's pipes and he says 150 per side and that is a fair price depending on shipping costs.

It still is worth the discussion of what to do if you want to fab your own since some will want to have that custom and others may have ability and not money.

Thanks
Chuck


I believe I have an uncrushed driver side 88 coolant pipe although I do not know if it's v6 or 4 cylinder. If we can confirm it's what you need you can take it for the price of shipping from PA. If interested pm or email.

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ChuckR
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Report this Post10-05-2019 09:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ChuckRClick Here to Email ChuckRSend a Private Message to ChuckREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I am not sure when next I will have the car off the ground to get under and take pics. Thank you for the offers on the coolant pipes. question though, since these are so long can the even be shipped via UPS? we all know freight shipping is expensive and they often do more damage then 30 years on a car will do. If they are under 8' then UPS will take them i think.

Where I think I saw damage is right after the drain bung toward the rear. Should the pipe kick up at an angle for the last foot of the run? The other reason I think this is not right is because the rubber hose between the 2 pipes was kinked. I thought the PO just had the wrong hose on there and I was getting restriction from that so I bought a new one and put it on. It has less kink than before but it still looks like there may be some restriction at that point as well. (yes I followed proper refill technique since it drained that entire line though it is the return line so not a lot of problem getting it filled. I used a long hose on a funnel and pushed it in the return line to make sure the coolant was filling there. once that was full I went up front and filled the radiator. then came back and filled the engine again, topped off the reservoir. Maybe when I take it off I get a solid bar of steel that is slightly undersized from the ID and use a vise to straighten? it is only about a foot in. I also need to think about replacing the radiator. since these two are the most likely cause of poor cooling. I will also as a precaution change the thermostat. The water pump was supposedly changed already.

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fierosound
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Report this Post10-05-2019 02:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ChuckR:

Where I think I saw damage is right after the drain bung toward the rear. Should the pipe kick up at an angle for the last foot of the run?


Year and engine?

Driver's side on a V6 engine pre-88 suspension - something like this.

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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 10-05-2019).]

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ChuckR
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Report this Post10-05-2019 08:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ChuckRClick Here to Email ChuckRSend a Private Message to ChuckREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:


Year and engine?

Driver's side on a V6 engine pre-88 suspension - something like this.


88 2.8. My hose is shaped differently than that, but that is the upward kick i am talking about on the tube. I may not be overheating at all I do not have a reliable gauge and Olejoedad said my other symptoms sound like a ground issue. Thanks for the picture though that does set my mind at ease. even though mine is different since the suspension is set up differently.

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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post10-07-2019 06:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageClick Here to Email Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

If you have a scanner you can read the temp that way as well.

Did you replace the correct temp sender for the gauge (there are 3 on the 2.8l). The one for the gauge is near the coil.

https://www.fierostore.com/Tech/Default.aspx?Id=99

If overheating possible you have an air bubble in the system.

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