The last step in my 4.9L /4T60e swap will be the replacement of the brake pedal and bracket assembly. The car was originally a stick and the assembly has a clutch pedal that is no longer needed. A friend (thanks Kenny) gave me the auto brake pedal and bracket assembly and now to fit in in place. The four bolts that hold the brake boosted in place also hold the front of the pedal assembly and were removed.. There is yet another bolt under the dash that also needs removal but not sure how to get at it yet. Any special way to access this bolt?
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Remove the drivers seat. Getting that bolt out is just the start of the fun.
Once you have the pedals out getting the new one up in there is a real ***** . Lower the steering column and get ready for a lot of swearing and scraped knuckles/arms.
Cant tell you how I finally maneuvered the new brake pedal in, it just eventually went in.
Remove the drivers seat. Getting that bolt out is just the start of the fun.
Once you have the pedals out getting the new one up in there is a real ***** . Lower the steering column and get ready for a lot of swearing and scraped knuckles/arms.
Cant tell you how I finally maneuvered the new brake pedal in, it just eventually went in.
Getting the 4 nuts off the booster that holds the assembly wasn't too bad its that last bolt under the dash that is the issue right now. I beleieve that since I am removing a two pedal assembly and replacing it with a single pedal it might not be too bad getting it installed but it sure sounds like work. If removal gets too difficult then I'll just cut out the old two pedal assembly with my compact sawzall. . As for installing there is hopefully an easier way.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Pull the cluster, dash and column. Once you pull the dash you can see what you're really up against.
The wiring bundle is the biggest pain.....
I thought that I only saw 1 bolt along the bottom of the dash that held the rear pedal bracket in place. Seems like a lot of work just to get that bolt out but if the dash must come down so be it. If I pull the dash I'll just try to lower the column not remove it. Maybe I can just remove the pedals and use the larger auto brake pedal. Will take a second look tomorrow.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
In addition to everything above, save yourself some trouble and trim the 4 booster mounting bracket bolts down about 1/2". There is almost no clearance to pull the assembly out with the bolts the stock length. Removing the complete pedal assembly is easily in the top 5 worst jobs with a Fiero.
Pulling the column at the upper end of the intermediate shaft takes about one minute longer than simply dropping it. One 11 mm hex bolt. Pull it so it's not in your way.
Now that it has been established that changing the pedal assembly bracket is a difficult job I am looking at ways to remove only the clutch and brake pedals and replace it will just the auto pedal. The stick and auto brake pedal mountings look similar. I'll drop out the pedals today and see if I can fit the auto pedal in place. It looks like it might work.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I believe that the brake bracket is the same, they changed the brake arm and added a bracket to support the clutch arm. Be sure to keep every spacer, spring, washer and shim in proper order and orientation and I think you'll be OK.
It was a few years ago when I converted my 5 sp to an auto I just removed the pedals. I cut the long pivot bolt- dropped the pedals and removed the little bracket that was added for the clutch. I had to cut the long bolt because the head is on the wrong end. The best that I remember it wasn't that bad a project. but then again that was about 8 years ago and I was still nimble .
I believe that the brake bracket is the same, they changed the brake arm and added a bracket to support the clutch arm. Be sure to keep every spacer, spring, washer and shim in proper order and orientation and I think you'll be OK.
Above is basically correct. Finished the job today. It did not require removing the old pedal bracket assembly. I just removed the long bolt (had to cut it with my handheld sawzall) dropped the old brake pedal out, then removed the two bolts that held the side bracket for the clutch pedal. That pedal then dropped right out too. Except for the larger brake pedal pad the auto version fits the stick bracket and uses the same mounting. It fit right in using the same sleeve, the two nylon end bushings and shorter bolt that it uses. No need to remove the dash. Easier job than I expected but tomorrow I'll probably be walking around like a hunchback.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I wish I had of thought of that about a month ago lol....
Perhaps the pedal change procedure outline here is a learning experience for myself that can be shared with others. We all live and learn. I did not want to drop the dash and steering column. What I did learn is that the auto and stick brake pedal brackets are exactly the same. The only difference with the stick is that the brake pedal pad is smaller and that the clutch pedal bracket is a separate piece just bolted onto it. Remove the two bolts that hold the clutch bracket in place and it comes off leaving the std brake bracket. Then you just , grease the internal bushing ,and install the larger auto brake pedal in the bracket using the hardened bolt and nut ------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 07-12-2019).]
