Hello all, I have a 1985 gt v6 4 speed manual and I have an 85 mph cluster that I want to replace with a 120 mph cluster and rally gauges (I think that's what the center volt/oil pressure gauge pod is called) that I pulled from a junkyard. I do not recall what exact model I got it from.
Looks like I need to do some soldering to hook up the voltmeter and oil pressure gauges, does someone have a wiring diagram to identify which wires I'd need to splice from the main cluster harness?
I tried to search for info on this, but I couldn't find much on this subject.
Hello all, I have a 1985 gt v6 4 speed manual and I have an 85 mph cluster that I want to replace with a 120 mph cluster and rally gauges (I think that's what the center volt/oil pressure gauge pod is called) that I pulled from a junkyard. I do not recall what exact model I got it from.
Looks like I need to do some soldering to hook up the voltmeter and oil pressure gauges, does someone have a wiring diagram to identify which wires I'd need to splice from the main cluster harness?
I tried to search for info on this, but I couldn't find much on this subject.
I did one a while back and IIRC replacing the 85 mph speedometer with a 125 mph unit was a direct fit. Adding the 86-88 auxiliary gauges required some splicing into the wires.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I installed the new cluster and auxiliary gauges today. The 125 cluster had corroded wire ribbon, so I gutted my original cluster and swapped the gauges over. That went pretty smoothly. The auxiliary gauges however, took a bit of modification to fit and mount.
The link I gave in my previous reply gave instructions on how to install these gauges, but my dash pod did not have a cut out on the top. I also did not have a bracket that the gauges seem to mount onto. Maybe these were parts I should have taken from the junkyard car when I got the gauges a year ago. So I had to get make it work with what I had. After a few hours of modifying, I was able to get the gauges mounted properly, and got them to fit. If anyone is interested, I can take pics and give more details on what I had to do to get them to fit. Got the wires soldered up, buttoned everything back up, and tested.
This could be due to age/wear, but I noticed my oil pressure gauge needle seems to have a wiggle to it. The old gauge would fluctuate a bit, but this one fluctuates and wiggles. The speedometer needle also seems to wiggle below 30 mph, it's steady after that.
I had just filled up my fuel tank, and drove only 7 miles home, so I know the tank was full. The old fuel gauge was pegged to the max. The new gauge read 3/4 tank. It stayed there for a while, but since then, I've driven the car and it's reading 1/2 now, so it seems to read properly below 3/4 tank.
This next thing may be unrelated, but i have a feeling its related. My aftermarket alarm has been working fine, but now when I arm the car, the alarm indicates there is an open/ajar door, and doesn't fully arm the alarm. I am confident in my wiring with the gauges, so I have yet to check that for an issue, though I will check soon. My Ajar light in the dash works properly, but I still checked the door pin switches (at the B pillars), hood and trunk pins, everything seems to be working fine. Ajar light comes on and off as it should. I check the alarm wiring, trace the wires, and come to find out the installer tapped into the pin switches at the A pillars. I'm gonna check those pin switches and wiring next.
Originally posted by Giro: This next thing may be unrelated, but i have a feeling its related. My aftermarket alarm has been working fine, but now when I arm the car, the alarm indicates there is an open/ajar door, and doesn't fully arm the alarm. I am confident in my wiring with the gauges, so I have yet to check that for an issue, though I will check soon. My Ajar light in the dash works properly, but I still checked the door pin switches (at the B pillars), hood and trunk pins, everything seems to be working fine. Ajar light comes on and off as it should. I check the alarm wiring, trace the wires, and come to find out the installer tapped into the pin switches at the A pillars. I'm gonna check those pin switches and wiring next.
I have found that older alarm systems will not trigger if you are using LED lights. Those alarms are set to trigger with a certain amount of bulb current and many LED's are so efficient that they don't draw enough current to trigger the sense circuit. I love changing to LED lights but the Excalibur alarm just doesn't like them
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 05-22-2019).]
Dennis, as much as I wanted to use LEDs, after reading the ogres info regarding them, I used standard bulbs.
When I check the A pillar switches, with the door open, I saw ground, and with the door closed, I only saw 11.7 volts, seemed a bit low. Since the alarm is wired into the A pillar switches, and the courtesy lamps are part of that circuit, I checked the lamps and found both bulbs were missing. The outer lights had bulbs, so I swapped the bulbs into the 2 center courtesy lamps. They now light up when the doors are opens, with the dimmer wheel, and with the button right in front of the lamps. Checked the door switch again, and this time I was seeing proper source voltage, 12.6ish. Now my alarm beeps and arms properly, but when I open the drivers door, the alarm does not get triggered. Opening the passenger door triggers the alarm. Seems like everything is fine on the vehicle end of things, maybe it's an issue with the alarm itself.
