I'm new to this forum and new to owning a Fiero. I'd really like to restore this vehicle and get it to a "reliable" state. It was put together by an aeronautical engineer who owned it for a number of years. Then it was sold to a second owner who neglected the hell out of it. It sat for 2 years not running before I went and trailer-ed it home. It's an 87' GT. It has a turbo, not sure if that is stock, I'm guessing NO. Anyhow, after several hours of prep work, I got it running. I went through a whole tank of gas and half way through another until it DIED... engine just turned off... no sputtering, hiccups, lurching, etc... just STOPPED. I got a ride home, came back with the trailer and brought it home. Started testing everything and found it has NO SPARK. It was running fine... then no spark... I'm a little lost. I took the distributor cap off (never seen a distributor like this before LOL) and it looked like this (see picture). It looks like trash to me... but again... first Fiero so I have no idea what's normal, etc. I'm looking for any wisdom in this area as to why it was running, and now suddenly it's not, AND what you think of the distributor's condition, AND any trouble shooting steps, etc I can take to identify the NO SPARK problem.
BTW, the kit or "car" is called an ALDINO. My understanding is that they didn't sell many of these kits and the company no longer exists. The vehicle also has a number of real Ferrari parts on it, installed by the first owner when he built it. No idea where he got the Ferrari parts... Thanks in advance for your insight.
Welcome to the forum. That's a very rare car indeed, very nice.
Chances are the ICM (ignition control module) went out. In that distributor is the ICM. It's that black triangle looking piece with a 2 pin plug on it. Try changing that out and see if that fixes it.
Thanks Spadesluck. I'll try that. Another question however... As I said before I've never seen a distributor like this before.... do I need to mark any positions, things like that BEFORE removing this part? I know on my Toyota if I remove the distributor, the timing gets out of wack and it's a pain in the ass to "reset" it. ANYTHING I need to know or do before I yank this part? Thanks again bud. Love your FAST response =]
To add to Spadesluck;s info, the inside of the distributor isn't attractive. Ozone created by the spark between the tip of the rotor and the plug wire contacts causes the inside to rust. Yours is in great conditon compared to some, and they just keep on running. Don't worry about it.
When you replace the ICM, you may find a small package of heat sink grease inside the box. If it's clear, throw it away. Ask your parts store if they have a tube of heat sink grease in either white or silver. You can usually find it at an electronics or computer store. White and silver conduct heat much better. Put a good even coat on the metal plate on the bottomof the ICM and install it. Don't overtighten the screws that hold it down. They are very fine threads and the screws are usually aluminum. Just use your fingertips on your tool to tighten them down.
The pickup coil pigtail that plugs into the back of the ICM is a little long and as such can easily be pinched between the distributor base plate and the cap. Twist the wire a bit so it's twined around itself. That will help to shorten it and keep it from being damaged.
Congratulations. Good grab. Welcome to our side of Pontiac Excitement.
Edit to say----When you purchase your ICM, get 2. This is the one item that most V6 owners carry as a spare, along with some heat sink grease. You may never need it, but when you do, you won't need a trailer to get the car back home.
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 05-17-2019).]
Thanks fierofool! That's some good tech on twisting the wire to keep it out of the way and short (I do the same thing on my trailer chains/hooks so they don't drag or catch. So is the "coil" part of the ICM or two separate parts? If I'm changing out the ICM, might as well swap the coil if it's two different parts... while I'm in there ya? Good advice on having a SPARE one of these handy. If this IS in fact the part that failed... geez, a spare would be a life saver... that and the tools needed to remove, replace, etc. If this fixes the problem... I'm going to make a ICM repair bag that will have EVERYTHING needed for an on the road job LOL. Good info on the grease.
Couple questions of course =] 1. Can I clean the contacts/prongs/whatever they're called on the distributor when I take it out? Suggestions for doing such if so? 2. Neither of you have mentioned whether I need to mark anything, put distributor back in a certain way... I don't want to mess up another thing trying to fix the first thing. Would be incredible if I don't have to mark anything and it just comes out and goes back in, like PnP... tell me it's so =]
The coil is separate from the distributor. It's an actual electromagnetic coil, a black black box(ish) a few inches on a side, IIRC farther towards the back of the car. Follow the center spark plug-looking wire from the distributor, it's the shortest one. On the other end is the coil. I wouldn't bother with a spare for that.
The ICM fails as it's a semiconductor and doesn't like heat, which is why all the talk of the thermal goop. If you've ever built a computer, it's just like the CPU, where you put thermal goop on it to pass the heat onto the cooler. This is the same, but the cooler is just the metal plate at the bottom of the dizzy.
The only time you need mark position on the distributor is if you remove the whole assembly. At that point you'd be retiming the engine, which is easy enough, but you should probably have a service manual or read up on it here first. You shouldn't have to remove the distributor to replace the ICM, so don't leap into that just yet.
As for the bits inside the dizzy, maybe blow it out with compressed air. I wouldn't go whacking it with a wire brush or anything ... maybe like a brush with plastic teeth (get them at the auto parts store) or an old toothbrush, if it bothers you that much. I haven't bothered.
dremu, thanks for the input. I found some at my local auto zone and saw pictures of it. It's got a metal base plate which I imagine is where the thermal compound goes? AH, so the distributor does not need removal to replace the ICM, got it. I'm not going to clean it/brush it off if it will work fine as is... it just looked fuzzy with debris so I figured I'd ask if that'd normal or needed attention. I also looked at the cap and button. They are seriously scorched... the inside upper half of the cap is almost completely WHITE lol. The button looks like the end has been melted back... so I'm going to change these as well... only like 20 bucks for a new set. Gonna go pick them up shortly and get them installed and report back. Thanks again for the help =]
Patrick, Thank you for the clarity. I'm a big fan of this "Aldino" as well. The little bit of driving I have done in it before it died... people are going bonkers for it. I had never seen/heard about one before I found this, seems there are not many around. I googled and found TWO... so I guess I'm #3 :P. As 99.9% of people know NOTHING about cars or mechanical workings (which I find incredible considering we use/RELY on them EVERY DAY), they are convinced it's a Ferrari and surprised when I tell them it's a 87 Fiero GT. The kit is modeled after the BB512... which runs about 350-400K for the real deal LOL. No way I'd be farting around town in a car that expensive.
So no one has commented yet about the turbo. Is turbo stock on the 87 GT or was this something added when this kit was built?
Thank you everyone, will report the outcome of installing the new ICM soon =] Have a great weekend.
The Aldino is more of a mashup, borrowing from several different Ferrari designs. The 512BB/BBi had no side strakes, but the TestaRossa, the 348TB/TS/Spyder, the later 512TR and 512M did feature those design elements.
Patrick, Thank you for the clarity. I'm a big fan of this "Aldino" as well. The little bit of driving I have done in it before it died... people are going bonkers for it. I had never seen/heard about one before I found this, seems there are not many around. I googled and found TWO... so I guess I'm #3 :P. As 99.9% of people know NOTHING about cars or mechanical workings (which I find incredible considering we use/RELY on them EVERY DAY), they are convinced it's a Ferrari and surprised when I tell them it's a 87 Fiero GT. The kit is modeled after the BB512... which runs about 350-400K for the real deal LOL. No way I'd be farting around town in a car that expensive.
Liberty, go Here and click on HISTORY. I'm sure you'll find it an interesting read about the designer, Joe Palumbo. He was not only the man behind the design of the Aldino, but he was also responsible for the Cimbria, Viper 2000, and a long time favorite of mine... the Enterra Vipre. If you look up images of these cars online, you'll notice a common theme among them. Very nice looking cars!
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-18-2019).]
Hello all, UPDATE **PROBLEM FIXED** SHE'S BACK ON THE ROAD!
olejoedad, Thanks for the information about the turbo. It definitely puts some pep in it's step, but it seems to get really hot. The temp gauge must be off... it's only reading around 130, but when I park it, it's HOT. I'm curious what others have done about heat issues in the rear. I wonder if I could mount some SERIOUS fans under the rectangle covers to vent off/draw out hot air... I agree after seeing the website Patrick provided and looking at some pics of Ferraris. Definitely has a bb512, 288 gto, etc front end. The sides look like the testarossas for sure. Testarossa means "red head" in Italian it turns out.
Patrick, thanks for the link, lots of cool stuff on there. I looked up all those cars... the vipre does look pretty sick... like a missle LOL.
GREAT WORK guys, thanks for the information. It is running again... started up immediately. Here are a few pictures of the new part, the MVP tool of the day and the old ICM. As far as it looks, the old ICM has ZERO thermal compound on it... the metal surface was DRY to the touch. I don't know if it burns off over time or there was just nothing put on there when it was replaced. I work with computers and I have seen really old thermal compound on processors... but it was dry and cracked but THERE. It reads it's from Singapore and on the reverse there is a GM logo with 369 5G21. Probably not the original and some donkey didn't put the paste on when it was replaced the last time....
The next thing I'd like to do is clean up the engine and bay... it's filthy. Any recommendations for how to go about this? Something I learned while changing this part is that there is NO ROOM in that bay.... geeez, talk about the chinese finger puzzle. I'd also like to figure something out for keeping the bay cool... it seems MUCH hotter than any vehicle I've owned or worked on... I took it around the block, cam back and parked it and opened the back... felt like I was standing in front of the open oven looking at a pizza. Any insights here would be greatly appreciated. ALSO, I made a small mistake. Let this be a reminder to ALWAYS check and double check for tools, equipment, etc BEFORE you take the vehicle for a test drive after working on it. I left my in-line spark tester on #2... it got torched by the exhaust and is now trash LOL. Surprisingly no misfires as I went around the block with this thing still connected. Big thanks again to everyone.
I'd also like to figure something out for keeping the bay cool... it seems MUCH hotter than any vehicle I've owned or worked on... I took it around the block, cam back and parked it and opened the back... felt like I was standing in front of the open oven looking at a pizza. Any insights here would be greatly appreciated.
A lot of us have swapped out the OEM fan switch (which doesn't come on until 235°) for a 210° on and 200° off fan switch that Rodney Dickman sells. Keep in mind that it's not just the rad fan that gets triggered, it's also the cooling fan in the back that blows cool air onto the ignition coil/distributor and the alternator.
That white ICM you installed looks like an aftermarket one. There have been many reports here over the years that they just don't stand up as long as the ACDelco units. Heat kills them, and with the addition of that turbo back there, you've got a challenge on your hands!
Yes, the white one is the Value craft brand. It was 35 bucks. I figured I didn't want to spend much not knowing FOR SURE that the no spark was due to this. I will definitely upgrade and buy a spare. The heat shield for this unit is hilarious as well LOL. I have also read elsewhere on google that the AC Delco is the way to go for these units. As heat IS the killer of these... I want to seriously look into cooling. The "fan switch" you're talking about... is it the toggle switch that is to the right of the steering wheel, just under the truck pop switch? What position should it be in during the ON position? I toggled it UP and I think I heard a fan turn on... Thanks
The "fan switch" you're talking about... is it the toggle switch that is to the right of the steering wheel, just under the truck pop switch? What position should it be in during the ON position? I toggled it UP and I think I heard a fan turn on...
Ummm... did you not click my link? I'm referring to the fan switch installed on the engine.
That toggle switch you're referring to sounds like a manual fan switch that's been installed.
quote
Originally posted by Liberty:
The heat shield for this unit is hilarious as well LOL.
Not 100% sure what heat shield you're referring to? The one between the EGR valve and the ignition coil? If so, you can see in this photo how I extended the heat shield to go all the way around to the right side of the distributor.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-18-2019).]
Originally posted by Liberty: ... it seems to get really hot. The temp gauge must be off... it's only reading around 130, but when I park it, it's HOT. I'm curious what others have done about heat issues in the rear.
Sounds like you need one of [url=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=thermal+temp+gun&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2v7mBRC1ARIsAAiw3489KtxoLNMLNm0F_-DaPqHB4r4zly356kRozQEKt4xqbBIv0STZMhQaAkIvEALw_wcB&hvadid=241591757012&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9027955&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2617020133680180143&hvtargid= kwd-34133776811&hydadcr=28519_10703093&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_20n7vbc86j_e]these[/url]. As with any tool, you get what you pay for. Not being a professional mechanic but still wanting to have confidence in my work, I went middle of the road cost.
Handy tool. Many uses. You can even measure the temp of all four wheels at the bearing area. One higher reading could indicate dragging breaks or a bad bearing.
Patrick, I didn't see the link. I'm severely color blind and miss a lot LOL. So there is a switch on the thermostat housing looks like... good to know. Yeah, this one has a switch inside the cockpit just under the trunk/hood switch. That is the correct heat shield, it's fairly small held down by two screws. I like what you've done there, going to look into doing the same to protect those electronic components, NICE WORK! I'm also looking at wrapping the exhaust as much as I can, perhaps it will cut down on the heat. And of course this is a body kit, etc. so I'm not sure how the venting, etc work on a stock Fiero vs the Aldino. I just looked at the "Testarossa" side vents...they go no where LOL. The "intakes" on both sides do go in and back around facing the firewall, but are quite high... and mid rear window height so I don't think they do anything. Fluid dynamics would actually force air OUT of those (high pressure to low pressure). Same reason that "hood scoops" do nothing and are just for show (on most vehicles). Perhaps if I did install a couple huge fans on the underside of the large rectangle vents to draw heat OUT... those side vents might actually allow air to flow IN. I have to do some air flow tests and see what's going on there.
Cliff, nice to meet you! Good idea on the thermo gun. They are cheap enough for a decent one. I think I'll get one to help find trouble spots and aid in my plan to vent this bay out. Good idea on checking bearings and brakes as well. Thanks for the like on the Fiero... I'm starting to really like it as well.
I like what you've done there, going to look into doing the same to protect those electronic components, NICE WORK! I'm also looking at wrapping the exhaust as much as I can, perhaps it will cut down on the heat.
If you extend the heat shield the way I did, you'll probably also need to remove the coolant lines that go to your throttle-body. They're there to prevent the TB from icing up. However, they're probably not required in Spartanburg. Is that in South Carolina?
To further reduce the temperature of the ICM, you might also want to add a heat sink, as I described Here.
Judging by your picture, you have no heat sheilding on the exhaust crossover pipe. To lower your engine bay temperatures, I would wrap the exposed exhaust pipes/manifolds and install a thermal reflective blanket on the hot side of your turbocharger.
Yep, I noticed that as well. I was like... this has GOT to be covered or something... just heating the box up. I'll look into getting it done soon. Thanks guys
So I did some more research and found out some interesting stuff. First, the "body kit's design". I found out there was this dude called Koenig. Long time race car driver and car dude. He made "kit cars" from the ground up called "Koenig specials". He is a race driver so his focus on his kit cars were performance and tuning and maximum aerodynamics. Also turns out that Ferrari didn't, at the time, put their designs through any aerodynamic tests... Well Koenig went a step beyond Ferrari and, after copying/being inspired by the Ferrari BB 512i, made a very similar body and tested it, made adjustments, etc. to produce his kit car body which was aerodynamically speaking superior to the BB 512i. Lots of people don't like this guy because he "butchers" Ferrari's original designs and concepts, etc. I could care less either way. Anyhow... the Aldino that I have now... is a "body kit" put on a "production vehicle". The body kit on my car was modeled after the KOENIG rendition modeled after the BB 512i. So essentially my Aldino is a copy of a copy, as far as the body goes LOL! These crazy kids.
Back to the project. I took a pic of the toggle switch to the right of the steering wheel. This turns on a fan, which blows air through these aluminum tubes/pipes in the engine bay, which are about 1" diameter and pointed straight at the ICM and other components there. The problem is the exhaust down pipe and hot side of the turbo are DIRECTLY underneath this pipe. I took it around the block yesterday (about a 3 mile loop) to heat up the engine. Then I parked it and shut it off. I then turned on the switch to feel what the fan was doing... and it was blowing air so hot it would burn me immediately straight onto the ICM. Also saw that the turbo is WELDED on, even though there are four bolts to join the flanges.... jesus.... You can see the weld on the top part if your eyes are sharp.
Also, on this trip around the block it was misfiring. We know that this vehicle was running "seemingly" fine before the ICM quit and the car died... never with any misfiring, etc. NOW with this "new" ICM it is misfiring. Any ideas? Is this because I bought the budget ICM? Should I return it and get the AC Delco ICM now? Can the module be fine, but due to the incredibly high heat it is screwing up... but still is a good working part?
Furthermore, I took a look at the service manual I got with the vehicle. The pictures and diagrams are terrible for one... but it looks like, what they are calling the "front" exhaust manifold, connects to the engine in 3 locations and flows to the PASSENGER side of the vehicle. The "rear" exhaust manifold connects to the engine in 3 locations and also flows to the PASSENGER side where they meet up and travel a strange path down under to the cat and then around to the muffler and exhaust tail pipes which are also on the PASSENGER rear. It looks like the stock vehicle had a SINGLE exhaust pipe that split into two right at the end and was on the passenger rear? SO, it looks like this Aldino has a "custom" exhaust. And clearly the idiot who put it together didn't know Fieros and about the important electronic components sitting JUST ABOVE where they decided to build the hottest part of their "custom" exhaust/turbo system. GREAT... No wonder it's having heat issues in the engine bay and particularly on and around the sensitive electronic components. I'm pissed. There WAS a stock heat shield that covered the original front exhaust manifold which is gone. I understand NOW why the stock exhaust system only had the front manifold under the electronic components and why it all traveled to the passenger side of the vehicle, never to return, AND had a heat shield to block the rising heat at that manifold. SO, looks like it's time for a new custom exhaust... I like spending tons of money fixing other people's mistakes \o/ I'll have to start looking at other people's exhaust systems on turbo-ed V-6 GTs. Won't be driving it for a while looks like....
Wrt misfire, is a good idea to at least check timing, plus maybe reset it. You'll need a timing light, a service manual, and a paper clip (really). Or search here on the forum, but over time, a Haynes book will be invaluable.
I don't know how the turbo would affect the ideal base timing; you'd also prolly need to know how the motor was built as IIRC they're supposed to be lower compression or something for turbos? I'm out of my depth on non-stock setups like that.
But apply Occam's Razor here, namely that the most simple solution most likely applies.
Screw to mount ICM must be clean and bright because 1 or both are the ground for it and if crappy will kill it. Screw are mostly steel but dist holes are in aluminum and often weak and very easy to strip. Yes, This is one of the spots you tighten w/ finger tip effort only. Could try using lock washers to help keep torque/pressure. Lock Washers on screw heads are better then locktite or nyloc nuts here.
Clear silicon works but real heat sink "grease" is better for many ICM's but often Not when dealing w/ DIS because of huge surface to grease. Thicker grease will Not spread out on DIS module like using on small ICM or any CPU's from Intel/AMD.
Heat shield between dist and exhaust helps keep exhaust heat away from parts w/ such shields. That "Weak" metal shield blocks 90+% of IR from the exhaust that does most of heating whatever behind them. Many old cars are missing 1 or more of the shields or GM left them out to save cost. Example some shields are on the exhaust pipe(s) and rusted out or removed by fools that replace exhaust parts. So instead of remaking shields on pipes, I made a shield on the starter and make sure have enough space to allow air flow to the starter.
85-87 V6 have a engine blower too but not on except when AC On or Fan Sender in engine is On. 88 V6 and all 4cyl don't have this for several reasons even ignoring GM Bean counters.
Unlike most who claim "Fiero has a big engine heat problem" I have tested that fact several times and for year say Bull. Many Front engine are far worse and more so w/ newer cars w/ small "grills" that restrict air flow even more w/ car running and stopped. Test Like https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/141784.html
Note that Mod'ed body may hurt air flow in engine bay and/or air flow thru the cabin. OE body is made w/ vents to help cool engine running on the highway w/ air thru those vents. OE body is also made to force air thru cabin even when heater/ac blower is Off. OE Fiero GT has this too but not as obvious as notch back cars covered in owner manuals etc.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Dremu, Thanks for the input. I just noticed you're from Livermore. I grew up in Sunol, just outside Pleasanton lol. Small world. About the car: Timing was checked and found correct. I have an original FSM, a timing light and plenty of paper clips =] Paper clip turns off the computer advance so you can set timing to exact values. Anyhow, it's not timing. Again, it was running perfectly well... then died due to the ICM being fried. I put in a CHEAP ONE... the value craft brand... was like 30 bucks. I'm asking if THAT POS is the problem LOL. It probably is... just gonna get the AC Delco as that is the ONLY one people talk about as a replacement. The "ideal base timing" would be slightly retarded or the same as factory spec. This is because the pressure is higher and the fuel burns faster. IF I left the timing stock as per the manual, I'd likely be in the counter productive area which isn't "ideal". It's also not the turbo causing misfiring. Thanks again bud.
theogre, Hello there. Thanks for the info. I will check the screws to the ICM. They were VERY dirty when I took them off and I didn't do anything to them but put them back on. It is entirely possible that crap fell into the holes and/or the screws got some crap on them. I'll take em out and clean them shiny =] I used white thermal compound... it spread fine. I don't know what the "norm" is for Fiero engine heat issues, but it seems frequent. What I'm dealing with is design flaws. I didn't know there were vents from the front what went through to the back... this one definitely DOESN'T have that good stuff. Thanks again for the post and your insight.
Cabin air goes in thru heater box intake under the windshield and out thru the B pillar and body trim. See owner manual at http://www.fieronews.net/ GT has same but I think GT final out path is under GT sail "window" to the rear window area of car.
This feature is for safety to prevent stale air causing driver to fall asleep. Fiero cabin is very small and air get "bad" fast even w/o you smoking etc.
Engine vents just look at rear of any OE Fiero. Less/no vents there will often make your engine bay hotter then normal Fiero and you will cook many parts not just ICMs. Like the battery and alternator will die from overheating. You can get cheap remote thermometer for kitchen use to see but have a helper to read while driving.
Bad mod's inside of cabin can cook ECM etc as well. Even Stock Fiero can cook ECM's. See my Cave, ECM Heat
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 05-20-2019).]
theogre, Hey bud, I think you missed in my last reply "I have an original FSM" FSM= Factory Service Manual. It has EVERYTHING about this car which is great. Did you happen to see a picture of what THIS Fiero looks like now? Good to know about the airflow and I appreciate your input...I'm afraid those "airways" are no longer on this vehicle, which is probably adding to this heat issue. It's really due to a poorly set up "custom" exhaust / turbo system. Good idea about putting a thermometer in there and keeping and eye on it. Another user gave advice about a thermo gun, to check temps all over the vehicle to gather data. Cool write up on the ECM cooling in "your cave" =] I think many many cars have ECM's that get hot. My 85' Toyota 4runner gets around the same temps...120-130 hot enough to burn you if you keep your hand on it. The cases are typically aluminum but they still get hot. They just need a heat sink and a fan... like a computer's CPU cooling device. I installed one on my truck. When I rebuilt the whole wiring harness, I added an additional wire for the heat sink fan AND a relay and fuse as it draws way less than typical components. It works well, keeps the ECU box cooooool. =] Thanks again for info ogre
Dremu, Thanks for the input. I just noticed you're from Livermore. I grew up in Sunol, just outside Pleasanton lol. Small world. About the car: Timing was checked and found correct. I have an original FSM, a timing light and plenty of paper clips =] Paper clip turns off the computer advance so you can set timing to exact values. Anyhow, it's not timing. Again, it was running perfectly well... then died due to the ICM being fried. I put in a CHEAP ONE... the value craft brand... was like 30 bucks. I'm asking if THAT POS is the problem LOL. It probably is... just gonna get the AC Delco as that is the ONLY one people talk about as a replacement. The "ideal base timing" would be slightly retarded or the same as factory spec. This is because the pressure is higher and the fuel burns faster. IF I left the timing stock as per the manual, I'd likely be in the counter productive area which isn't "ideal". It's also not the turbo causing misfiring. Thanks again bud.
Small world indeed!
Sounds like you know more than I thought, sorry, don't mean to treat you like a total n00b, just don't want to assume either.
My thought with the timing is that the new module may be triggering differently enough to move the timing off. As you say, a genuine Delco part can't hurt ... then you can keep the cheapo as a limp-home spare.
Thanks, I do know a bunch indeed. However with every vehicle there are things that make it unique...and problematic at the same time. As I have never worked on Fieros, never owned one, etc. I didn't want to spend days trouble shooting and diagnosing when Spadesluck hit the nail on the head first swing. Told me about the ICM and the know issues and it WAS that part causing the problem. Most of my questions will be related to the unique features, workings, etc. of the Fiero. I like the idea of just keeping this cheap ICM as the "limp home" part LOL. I'll swap it out... easy enough and post the results. Still looking for custom exhaust / turbo configurations that will put the major heat source far away from the components... been fun so far =]
The turbo stuff you can do a search here on the forum and see the different setups others have used, maybe that will give you an idea on where you want to go with it. Exhaust wrap alone will help out a lot.
Thanks Spade, yeah I hear ya. I'm looking around on here and online. The wrap will definitely help, I could even Jet Hot coat them... or whatever that company's name is lol. Then wrap them on top of the coat. It just bugs me how it was set up in the first place. Shows that the person didn't KNOW Fieros, like you do. I kinda want to just take it out and redo it correctly, but I am looking at options. Will cost a decent chunk of change to rebuild the exhaust. I'm also looking at the "vent" covers on my bonnet (hood). They are solid and no air can pass through them lol. Nice design on the body kit as well >.< I can take them off and remove the lower plates that are solid and replace them with mesh or something. I think I like the idea of putting a couple big ass fans under there as well. Under the two rectangle covers (red), there is about a 4" gap down to the lower portion of the bonnet. I could mount them there and after opening up all the vents... just blast the air right out. I have to do the math, but if they can DRAW enough air, the vacuum created could create positive airflow in the non functioning big ass side scoops. I could easily cut inside the bonnet under these scoops and add a screen so air could flow in. Wrap the hell out of the exhaust and turbo and put a heat shield over them and angle it up and to the passenger side AWAY from the goodies. We'll see... lot's of options and fun project stuff to choose from.
IR "gun" thermometer and even FLIR are good for some things and useless for others. Surface itself can make either to lie about true temp. Remote meters and others are good for checking air temp while IR gun and FLIR can't. So IR gun reading surface temp may help or not depending on many things. Example: Is good for brakes as dragging pads in an iffy caliper heat up the rotor often way more then the other on same axle. But you need to read both fast and often a problem w/ many wheels that hind the rotors.
Air flow thru cabin for notch back cars. from 87 FSM Is in some but seem not all owner books but different. 84 2C-7... "Pillar exhaust" near the lower seat belt and few seen it w/o moving/removing the seat.
87 OM deletes this but 87 FSM does. not checking all books I have.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 05-21-2019).]
hey ogre, Thanks for the post and diagram. My fiero has a "Aldino" body kit on it. These ports of flow were not added to the body kit and air does not flow through the vehicle as it did when stock. The ONLY air flow to the back comes from a fan under the front hood and goes through the two aluminum tubes that are about 1" diameter in the back. The problem with the one that faces the electronic components is that it is RIGHT above the custom exhaust manifolds, down pipe and turbo that was installed. The hot side of the turbo can reach 1500' F and so the "air" tube is basically blowing super hot air onto these components now. This is what caused the ICM to fry and make the car stop running (no spark). I spoke with the 2nd owner (person I got the car from) and he said the same "thing" happened when he was driving on a longer trip from his home town Pelham AL to Birmingham AL. He had it towed to a shop and THEY fixed it... He never knew HOW the car failed... he just paid to have it fixed and didn't look into it. If you look at the very top of this post, you will see a couple pictures of the body kit it has on it. Hope this helps clarify one of the issues facing THIS vehicle and it's heat issue in the rear. Thanks agian =]
The 1" tubes are stock Fiero and are intended to COOL the components when the radiator fan is activated. In your case, they hurt instead of help. You need to fashion a heat shield and re-route the tubes to blow in another direction.....if there is room for that.
I believe He means normally engine blower is only on w/ rad fan to blow air thru those small tubes from trunk. That normally only happens w/ AC head or sender in engine are on.
Even w/ blower on cooling Dist and Alt... w/o enough hot air exiting the bay, various parts will overheat and have a short life. Even fan belts and just wires hate high heat.
IOW Might rewire the blower to be on more or always But may not help and always on can shorten blower motor life.
Show us pic's of top closed and bottom open of deck lid and may find someway to vent the bay better.
Even if blower or vent mods helps, Likely will still need to add/change heat shields too to block Tubo IR hitting the dist etc.
I just wanted to clarify the coil issue for the OP.
I'm referring to the fan switch installed on the engine.
