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Heater core/ Cooling problem by Ben1730
Started on: 04-12-2019 05:19 PM
Replies: 10 (268 views)
Last post by: theogre on 04-14-2019 12:33 PM
Ben1730
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Report this Post04-12-2019 05:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Ben1730Send a Private Message to Ben1730Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello gentlemen and ladies, i know this topic has been beat to death.... Repeatedly. However i have failed to find a solution in most of the obvious places.

First up, the car is a 84, 2.5L, base model.
The problem i keep having is, that it will overheat within a few minutes of starting the engine. The Radiator doesn't seem to heat up and the heater core lines are failing to warm up as well.
The New bits: Radiator, all 4 radiator hoses, Temp sensor, Water pump, V belt, Thermostat, coolant overflow tank and hose, Radiator Cap, and Thermostat Cap.
Other pertinent info: When the coolant hose running from the passenger hardline to the water pump was replaced, the waterpump end was completely blocked with a solid material. (presumed to be from old coolant) Also the temp Gauge doesn't work.
Thermostat does work!!!, and all coolant i add to it seems to simply migrate to the overflow tank.

Would a blocked Heater Core cause this problem?

Any help is appreciated,

~Ben


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olejoedad
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Report this Post04-12-2019 05:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No, a blocked heater core would not cause the problem you describe.

Did you flush the block and under-car cooling tubes when you had everything apart?

It sounds as though you have no coolant flow from the radiator to the water pump.

Are you sure that you do not have an air pocket in the system?
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Patrick
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Report this Post04-12-2019 05:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This is probably pretty obvious as well... but you've also checked both metal coolant pipes down each side of the car to make sure neither one has been crushed?
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Ben1730
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Report this Post04-12-2019 06:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Ben1730Send a Private Message to Ben1730Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I looked at the coolant tubes and they look circular, one or two small dents but nothing structural.

The block and tubes were not flushed so i guess i'll have to see about flushing them

Thanks for the responses
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Patrick
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Report this Post04-13-2019 02:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

As previously mentioned, it's possible you have an air pocket. For advice on how to "burp" the Fiero cooling system, This is how I do it.
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fierosound
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Report this Post04-13-2019 10:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Ben1730:

Other pertinent info: When the coolant hose running from the passenger hardline to the water pump was replaced, the waterpump end was completely blocked with a solid material. (presumed to be from old coolant)



Sounds like no circulation as others have mentioned.
Did you remove and examine water pump and engine block where mounted?
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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-13-2019).]

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Ben1730
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Report this Post04-13-2019 01:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Ben1730Send a Private Message to Ben1730Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Patrick, i had been using the method in ogre's cave to burp it. while doing the procedure the engine overheated on the 4th or 5th start up with a few minutes in between to cool off.

Sound, when the old pump was removed, the block side was relatively clean and no other blockages were noticed. (this was last novemberish so...) The small amount of debris that was present was removed and the surfaces cleaned before installing the new pump.
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Spoon
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Report this Post04-13-2019 07:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You mentioned the temp gauge isn't working. What indications are you observing to determine overheating? Steam coming off engine, coolant on the ground, or white smoke out the exhaust, Check Engine Light, Bubbling coolant in the recovery bottle, rough idle, etc??

Your not topping off the coolant recovery tank to the brim are you? Overheating a few minutes into a cold start sounds a little strange to me. How do you know the t-stat is working?

I'm as curious as you to resolve this problem.

Spoon

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Patrick
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Report this Post04-13-2019 07:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Ben1730:

...all coolant i add to it seems to simply migrate to the overflow tank.


Many Fiero owners don't seem to realize that coolant goes up and down in a Fiero's "overflow" tank every time an engine warms up and cools down.

When your engine is cold, is the coolant in the "overflow" tank at the correct level? If it ever goes empty, then air gets sucked into the car's cooling system.

And did you replace the rad cap with the correct non-vented one? Information at Ogre's Cave under Radiator Caps Here.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-13-2019).]

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Ben1730
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Report this Post04-13-2019 08:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Ben1730Send a Private Message to Ben1730Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Patrick, my radiator cap, under further review does appear to be a Vented Cap. (Someone call me an idiot. Please.) Part# MCS 7616.

So before i go yell at o'reilly's in the morning is there anything else i should look at?
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theogre
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Report this Post04-14-2019 12:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
See my Cave, Coolant Fill may help...
But "Overheating" after a few seconds to minutes maybe a bad Radiator Caps to a "blown" head casket or crack head.

Older dukes had weak head bolts and bolt between 2 and 3 cyl on exhaust side is known to have problems or even break.

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