Has anyone successfully installed, then later removed these sail panels that are still available from the Fiero store? Is there a trick? Or is the paint on the sails guaranteed to peel off if you try to remove them?
My paint job aspirations are just growing increasingly distant, and I am frankly sick of looking at cracked and damaged sail panels on my car.
I have the new sail panels already and would entertain putting them on now anyway just to ease my frustrations.
Sail Panels and quarter windows are two separate designs. One is used on Notchbacks the other on fastbacks. Chris Cook made a replacement quality window but they do not always fit right and the contour is also different. I believe that Cooks windows are painted for the shading and it will come off if the window is removed. The Fiero Store sells a premium .quarter window that is exactly like the originals
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
If you go ahead and install the quarter windows, it's probable that the paint will come off if you try to remove them to pain the body. I would venture that would happen with any of the windows available.
i have them and had to remove them, yes some of the paint did come off, but, i was able to get some of the paint from the seller and repaint the areas where it came off, they look just fine after
I have had 2 sets from Cook.. both sets eventually came off due to the paint coming off the window itself. It’s weird how some claim it never happens and if it does it’s because of the “wrong” tape. So YES, it’s probably gonna peel the paint upon removal. -Crasian
I believe that the OEM quarter windows used a heat stamping process for the printed design. Cooks windows are painted. When trying to remove the windows from the two sided tape, you can bet that the paint on the inner side will come off. The windows are being held in place by the two sided tape to the thin paint surface on the inner side not directly to the plastic window. Its a compromise design that filled a gap in the market when noting else was available. Now that the Fiero Store has premium OEM style windows this problem may no longer be an issue.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
When the proper ink (acrylic) is used, it actually becomes a part of the surface of the acrylic window through a chemical bond as opposed to a mechanical bond. Mechanical bonds will separate, but usually the only way to remove a chemical bond is with a chemical or through abrasion. Both of which will damage the window. The original windows were provided with a way to remove them. That was a piece of monofilament line that actually separated the 2 surfaces of the tape, leaving one adhesive surface on the car body and the other on the window surface. Then other methods could be used to remove the adhesive without damaging the printed surface. Peanut butter was touted to be a good adhesive remover. Lots of work but it worked for me.
Kind of what I expected so far. I appreciate the responses!
The OE fishing line was something I wanted to consider, but I am tinkering with an idea that would serve best for this daily driver that sees Winters and salt as well. I may test with one of the blemished windows he posts on eBay from time to time to save the pain of full replacement if it should not work.
Hopefully I have a neat resolution soon! Keep the thread going if you have experience or ideas!
You can use a guitar string to separate the tape. If you can find a point where you can get it through from the backside to the front. Wrap the ends around a large piece of wood to act as handles and saw it back and forth. Original factory installations had several gaps in the tape at the bottom of the window to allow water to drain. If you can locate those spaces, it's easy to get the wire through. That's what I did when the monofilament broke. I think it's the 3rd string. The finest string that is wound.
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 03-31-2019).]