I have a V6 and I just replaced the alternator belt. It was not tight enough after I finished and it squeals like crazy for 1 minute straight after start up. My neighbors love me. How do you guys pry the alternator so it's tight enough?? Also is there any way of doing it without removing the wheel?
It's not so much the length of the belt, as it is the routing. I used Rodney's tensioner and it worked very well for me. I have heard great things about the dodgerunner set up as well, either is a necessity for the v6 belt system.
If a belt squeals one time, it will probably continue to make noise, because the surface gets cooked and slick. I have had a V6 Fiero for 15 years and not one sound from the belt. Although tensioners are nice, and new belt will be a bit more cost effective.
While the tensioner might be the best option in the long run I was more hoping someone could share where they usually pry on the alternator to get it tight enough. It is a brand new belt just not tight enough..
Warning: Many times Noise does not = belt is too loose. More so w/ serpent types. See my Cave, Serpent Belt
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Seems like, these days, a majority of the 2.8s do this if you don't have the Rodney or Dodgerunner solution.
When I had these cars as a kid, it was a non-issue, and I have wondered why its a problem now with age. Best I can figure, the pulleys get slicker and dirtier with time and use.
OP . . . you can use a long bar and leverage to tighten it until it causes pulley failure . . . and it will still squeal, especially when wet. My car has only 11k miles on it, and it would squeal on startup after washing the car. That's with a new alternator and a top-of-the-line belt and lots of elbow grease.
The Dodgerunner solution is a nice setup. But for cost and ease of installation, I went the Rodney route. Been good ever since.
Just tightened mine. New belt. I keep the bolts near tight before I began. I keep one wrench on a bolt to tighten while using an 18" long 3/8" socket wrench positioned just so. I cannot easily describe where it goes, but it does the job as stated if you get it right. I pull on the socket and tighten the wrenched bolt. I then tighten the remaining bolts with just a slight crank.
It fits and I have done it a few times more than most. No tire removal, but I do have the azz end in the air with chocks and stands.
Edit: Like stated by earlier good advice, some just do not want to tighten. I have not had an issue with any of my Fieros, but I have read time and time again where this happens and a thread is started. I really like the tensioner idea.
[This message has been edited by Tony Kania (edited 03-06-2019).]
On the stock V6, the belt doesn't wrap very far around the pulleys. So keeping the pulleys clean is pretty important. I would suggest scrubbing the pulleys (where the belt touches them) with a scotch-brite pad and some solvent. Alcohol or vinegar would probably work. And don't ever use belt dressing. Belt dressing will glaze the belt, and make it prone to squeaking.
Also, as Tony mentioned, there's a "hack" for tightening the alternator. First you tighten both alternator bolts until they're snug. Then back them off by about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. The alternator should be able to move back and forth, but with some resistance. That will make it easy to tighten the bolts while you're prying on the alternator.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 03-06-2019).]
Don't forget tp clean the pulleys . All types of debris has collected on the pulleys over the years and the belt can't get a 'bite' and will chirp and squeal .
I sandblasted my pulleys to clean and roughen them. I didn't have troubles after that with the stock 2.8 belt setup. I may have heard the occasional belt squeal, but nothing worth addressing.
For my engine rebuild I did buy Rodney's idler, but that was me being in a spendy money-wasting mood rather than trying to fix a problem.
I prefer Rodney idler, since I don't like the idea of having a slotted alternator mount AND a spring-loaded belt tensioner at the same time.
I prefer Rodney idler, since I don't like the idea of having a slotted alternator mount AND a spring-loaded belt tensioner at the same time.
What's the fear, that the slotted mount is going to allow movement due to pressure from the tensioner spring?
I've had Dodgerunner's tensioner installed for over ten years now. Absolutely no problem with the alternator slotted mount.
It's so nice to never have anymore problems with a squeaking squawking alternator belt, especially considering the very wet climate I live in. Just install the belt... and forget about it.
Originally posted by Patrick: What's the fear, that the slotted mount is going to allow movement due to pressure from the tensioner spring?
No, I don't have any doubts regarding the functionality.
I just find it's not a clean setup; the factory wouldn't have done it that way. I like my mods to appear like they could be stock.
Normally, if you have a spring-loaded tensioner, no further adjustment is needed, or desired. If you add a slot for the alternator mount, that's another opportunity for the production line staff to mess up the assembly process, versus there just being a plain hole. You want to design things in such a way that the biggest idiot can assemble your product and have it still work.
Of course, if you have no tensioner, then you must have the slotted alternator mount, along with the adjustment procedure.
It just seems unthinkable to me to have a slotted alternator mount (and its adjustment procedure) AND a spring-loaded tensioner (which needs to be forced against its spring to install the belt). The labour costs would be excessively high... for nothing.
[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 03-07-2019).]
Dodgerunners mount for the alternator is in a fixed location. It no longer has the ability to slide. The tensioner takes up all the slack.
Good point. It's been so long since I installed mine that I didn't remember exactly how things were mounted. You're absolutely right, there's no longer any adjustment available at the slotted alternator mount. This can be seen in the image I posted above. So nothing needs to be manually set. Simply install the correct belt... and never have to worry ever about needing to adjust it.
The is the way is the factory should've done it in the first place.
I never had a problem with belt squeal (owned the car since 1992, so have several years under the belt), but always bought the better quality belts. I use to use a short pry pry to tension the belt. But I installed Dodge Runner's system some time ago and would never go back.
I suggest you do that or Rodney's - your alternator bracket will thank you (many have broken their brackets trying to get the belt "tight").
Dodgerunners mount for the alternator is in a fixed location. It no longer has the ability to slide. The tensioner takes up all the slack.
I took a close look at the photo above, and yes, that's true.
If I had paid closer attention to the Dodgerunner tensioner, I may have bought one! I sometimes buy things for my car too fast without doing the proper research.
quote
Originally posted by Patrick: The is the way is the factory should've done it in the first place.
If stuff dies during the 3-year warranty, that's expensive. If stuff dies just after the warranty, you'll ruin your reputation.
10-year lifetime is a good spot to shoot for; breakdowns at the 10-year mark are expected.
Did stock 2.8 Fieros squeal like crazy at 10 years of age? (I don't know, I wasn't a Fiero owner in the mid 90s)
If the stock Fieros did make it to 10 years without belt issues, then the spring-loaded tensioner would have been a bad idea (dividends not going into shareholders' pockets).
While the tensioner might be the best option in the long run I was more hoping someone could share where they usually pry on the alternator to get it tight enough. It is a brand new belt just not tight enough..
You can always go this method or something similar.
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
Before I swapped to a 3800 I put over 10k miles on my 2.8 and had noise at most idles and when slowing down etc.. it ended up being a dirt problem/build up problem. I cleaned all my pulleys really well, removed any kind of dirt/grime/old rubber/ sticky stuff from them and reinstalled the belt, kept it within spec for tightening.
Never had problems after that roughly 10k no squeal miles put on it. It was biting into the belt because of the crud built up on the pulleys...
Seriously, it's the best money you'll ever spend on a V6 Fiero.
I must say that looks like a really nice upgrade for all 60* Fiero's, I would have definitely gotten that for mine. Preventative maintenance/upgrades are satisfying.