Hello all looking to get a fiero as a project with a 2.5 4 speed going to do a 3800 swap or caddy 4.9 but the vehicle auto has no keys how hard would it be to get them from a metro detroit dealer?
I'll probably have to have a locksmith make a reverse impression (pretty sure that's what they call it
Thanks for the response if you have a cool idea for the project let me know
Welcome to the forum! You can also look on eBay for full sets that come with brand new locks and keys for both doors and the deck lid (which are different) ...
I don't know this, but I gotta believe a locksmith can make an actual key if you provide the lock cylinder. I've done that on numerous cars and no locksmith has ever complained. I've even dumped a pile of junkyard-sourced lock cylinders off and them make one full lock set with a common key before. It worked on my '87 Suburban, sure seems like it'd work on a Fiero!
In the worse case new or used ignition and door cylinders are available. I would take the most economical route available.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Before you get too far into it, be aware that the 84 was a bastard year in many ways, especially the electrics, and the hardest one to do any kind of engine up grade on.
as for the ignition key, it doesnt get much cheaper than this, you get a new cylinder and key, easy to install as well. as fo the doors and trunk lid, thats a different story..
Just take the right hand door lock (passenger side) out of the car door and take it to a standard locksmith. They will look up the number on the lock cylinder housing and cut you a new key that should fit your ignition and door locks. Costs about $7.
The door lock cylinder and ignition lock cylinders require different keys. You can't cut a key for the ignition using the door lock cylinder unless there is a code number that translates to 2 different cuts. One cut for the door/trunk and one cut for the ignition. .
If the car has a remote trunk release, the trunk can be opened by applying power to the release button harness. Then the trunk cylinder can easily be removed to cut a key for the doors and trunk. The ignition cylinder is relatively easy to just replace as vette7584 stated.
TopNotch of Georgia Fieros was successful in opening a trunk by using a very small drill and drilling into the cylinder key slot. That allowed the tumblers and springs to come out, then the cylinder would turn.
The trunk lock comes off easy. I took mine to have body keys cut. Was told by the experienced shop they had to drill the trunk lock due to design and to get a door lock if I could instead because it could be disassembled for the process, which was only $15. I think I did that and never got it back in.
No keys? Make very sure the tittle matches VIN on the car in two or more spots. Windshield, RPO label near Brake MC, etc. Starting in 87 have VIN labels on most body panels.
Many have been burn by ____ saying no keys and tittle won't match VIN, or match only windshield rivet on tag that often switched, but buyers don't look for this problem.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I have tried the VIN generated key number approach and had little or no decent luck because most of the dealer databases do not go back that far (according to the dealer). I went to an an individual that had the old database and he cut me a key for $10. However, it did not fit the lock cylinder.
The VIN only works for key generation if the original lock cylinders are still in place. Due to the age of our cars, a fair portion of the lock cylinders are likely to be replacements.
New lock cylinders and keys are readily available. It's no walk in the park, but you can install them. You can also get a rebuilt column or have yours rebuilt, but either way involves removing the entire column and shipping it..
Wow you guys are awesome I'm so happy to see so many responses. The reason I ask is because we don't even know if the car is locked or unlocked so we wanted ease for 2 reasons
1. Towing the car if we cant even get in it
2. As most of you pointed out the dealers are 50/50 with keys and it is possible one has been replaced prior
My plan is to buy a new cylinder(s) and just drill out the doors and redo the ignition my cost is about 20$ for the cylinders with keys ready to install
I appreciate the information about the vin checking though sorry quoting isn't easy my cell phone is hit and miss with the text boxes .
Thank you everyone
[This message has been edited by Notglitchd (edited 02-07-2019).]
I once lost my key and needed new one cut - the lock smith just removed the cylinder and got a number off of it and cut a new key.
Now this was for the ignition, not sure if the same applies to door keys (wasn't worried about the door key at the time as I had a spare at home) - but the door cylinders are a pain to get at easily to remove, but any locksmith should be able to get into the Fiero without a key.
BUT - as mentioned above, the 84 is an odd ball with it's wiring and stuff. I would look for a newer car as a project. Unless this one is almost free and has zero rust.
[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 02-07-2019).]
I am sitting here at my desk with a set of new door locks and ignition cylinder. All are OEM GM. Both boxes are marked for Fiero. None of the cylinders have any codes visible on them. Not around the barrel, or on the end. The only code is in the knockout in the head of the key. This is where GM traditionally put the lock code.
I once lost my key and needed new one cut - the lock smith just removed the cylinder and got a number off of it and cut a new key.
Now this was for the ignition, not sure if the same applies to door keys (wasn't worried about the door key at the time as I had a spare at home) - but the door cylinders are a pain to get at easily to remove, but any locksmith should be able to get into the Fiero without a key.
BUT - as mentioned above, the 84 is an odd ball with it's wiring and stuff. I would look for a newer car as a project. Unless this one is almost free and has zero rust.
The car is 100% free that is my one issue though we don't know the exact year. I'd rather not pay a locksmith only because I have fair mechanical knowledge and the time involved wouldnt be an issue it will likely sit unfortunately since I need some maintenance items on my honda
The title concern should be the primary concern. Verify that first. If the doors are locked, Fiero's are stupid easy to get into. A trunk release switch will give instant access there, if the battery has power.
Worst case scenario, the door lock cylinders do not have a code stamped into their exterior. No matter, a locksmith can still identify the key coding by disassembling the cylinder further.
Being a 4 cylinder, both door locks and trunk lock plus a key that matches all 3 can be had cheap. NOS GT sets are around $100, so it should be doable for half that for a quality set.
I have rebuilt lock cylinders with junkyard sets and still have my original keys. It's not rocket science!
The odds of a column having been replaced are somewhat higher, which means a new key could have replaced the factory original that the VIN was tied to, if the database at the dealer even offers VIN cut keys. Saginaw columns were a target of thieves throughout the 80's and 90's. Even I was a victim of attempted theft less than a year ago that a locked fiero had its' column smashed to smithereens.
Though one final note, an ignition cylinder does require the key to be inserted for the cylinder to be removed when tearing the column down, does it not?
The title concern should be the primary concern. Verify that first. If the doors are locked, Fiero's are stupid easy to get into. A trunk release switch will give instant access there, if the battery has power.
Worst case scenario, the door lock cylinders do not have a code stamped into their exterior. No matter, a locksmith can still identify the key coding by disassembling the cylinder further.
Being a 4 cylinder, both door locks and trunk lock plus a key that matches all 3 can be had cheap. NOS GT sets are around $100, so it should be doable for half that for a quality set.
I have rebuilt lock cylinders with junkyard sets and still have my original keys. It's not rocket science!
The odds of a column having been replaced are somewhat higher, which means a new key could have replaced the factory original that the VIN was tied to, if the database at the dealer even offers VIN cut keys. Saginaw columns were a target of thieves throughout the 80's and 90's. Even I was a victim of attempted theft less than a year ago that a locked fiero had its' column smashed to smithereens.
Though one final note, an ignition cylinder does require the key to be inserted for the cylinder to be removed when tearing the column down, does it not?
I am unsure I haven't heard of the key needing to be in but this is my first pre 90s car. I'm fairly sure we will just have to murder the locks to do what we need to since our main concern is being able to get it on the dolly to get it home...not sure even if it runs
Again thanks guys for the idea if checking the vin. Not like I'm worried if some key parts were changed but I don't want a hacked up stolen car either
Though one final note, an ignition cylinder does require the key to be inserted for the cylinder to be removed when tearing the column down, does it not?
I think you may be correct, but I know I bought one without any keys once and managed to get the ignition lock out. Maybe had to use a bit of force? I don't exactly recall. Note you will need a wheel remover and a lockplate tool.
You can replace every lock on the car for about $80 on ebay.
If this car has been sitting for any length of time especially outside, the keys are probably the least of the problems you will have to deal with. They are just the first.
Not to discourage in any way, the fun (at least for me) is in chipping away at the problems and ending up with something pretty cool in the end.
[This message has been edited by Tempus_Fugit (edited 02-10-2019).]
As someone said, the ignition lock switch has an extra tumbler that the door and trunk locks don't have so a key made from the trunk or door won't work for the ignition switch. Think that started around 1972.
You can remove the cylinder without the key. This is pretty much how to do it. He does a good job of editing all the garbage out and getting to the point. Go straight to 1.56 if you want. What you're looking for is at 5:35 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14sGPdiB250 Buy/rent/borrow the tools. https://www.amazon.com/ABN-...y&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1 Some say to mark the wheel exactly where it came off is a plus so it's centered when you put it back on (if it was centered before removing, that is). There are factory marks already though. You can see a factory mark on his stalk at 8:37. Didn't see the steering wheel mark, but it's probably there. This all just takes time to do this the first time, like most things. Once you've done it it's a 30 minute deal at most. I bought the tools individually back when I used to buy derelict cars for parts.
Older locks instead of the torx screw to remove the lock you have a slot you pierce to get to a button to depress. Prob not on the Fiero, but I don't remember. Once you pierce the slot and depress the lock button I think you can rotate the switch and pull out the whole lock assembly. You can now put a new one in or have a key made for the old one.
BTW, if you have a tilt column that's loose there are 4 screws that secure it back down in place. Do all the steps without removing the lock switch and you can get to 3 of the 4 screws which will fix your flopping tilt.
[This message has been edited by sourmash (edited 02-10-2019).]
as for the ignition key, it doesnt get much cheaper than this, you get a new cylinder and key, easy to install as well. as fo the doors and trunk lid, thats a different story..
Maybe I'm doing it wrong. I was taking the column apart to replace the cylinder, because the black part on mine is all scratched up. How do you replace the cylinder without disassembling the column?
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