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steering drift by mrjay47
Started on: 02-04-2019 11:51 AM
Replies: 16 (255 views)
Last post by: mrjay47 on 02-14-2019 05:39 AM
mrjay47
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From: battle creek, mi, usa
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Report this Post02-04-2019 11:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mrjay47Click Here to Email mrjay47Send a Private Message to mrjay47Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Interested to see if anyone else has had this issue. '87 GT with 29k miles on it. Had steering wheel shake at approx 65 mph which I finally got rid of but it involved redoing all of front and rear suspension and a new steering rack after I got tired of nickel and diming the problem. Shake issue resolved but now car drifts side to side in lane while keeping steering wheel straight. I have had the 4 wheel alignment and balancing done to no avail. Someone suggested loose intermediate steering shaft. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have had this baby since new and would really love to drive her more, but it is plain scary on the highway.

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Gall757
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Report this Post02-04-2019 04:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Find another alignment shop. This one does not know what they are doing. Even if the issue is low tire pressure at the rear wheels, they should have checked it.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 02-04-2019).]

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Kevin87FieroGT
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Report this Post02-04-2019 05:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

There is a tensioning nut on your steering rack that may need adjustment. I have reconditioned two racks (86SE & 87 GT). When doing those I adjusted the nut as described in the factory service manual. Both racks needed further adjustment, via the nut, after a road test. During the road test both cars drifted slightly and smoothly left and right at 40-55mph plus. The alignments were done spot on prior to the road test. After further tensioning the rack adjustment nut the drifting was gone and both cars tracked perfect. Rodney D, and maybe FS, sells a wrench to loosen the lock nut (large stamped steel nut about 2 1/4” diam.) on the tension adjustment nut. It’s all very easy to do without lifting the cars front. To help in the adjustment I used a paint pen to index the adjustment nut prior to adding more tension. I only needed to turn the adjustment nut by about 1/8th of a turn to get the correct tension on the rack.

There is a spring under the adjustment nut that pushes a nylon part into the rack that sets the tension between the rack and the steering pinion gear. Hopefully someone can post the factory manual photo for you. Also it would only take a Shop 10 min to do this for you. However, after a test drive you may want to adjust it slightly more for your liking.

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 02-04-2019).]

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theogre
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Report this Post02-04-2019 05:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Iffy column, See my Cave, Steering

So you "rebuilt" the suspension but did you check cradle and its bushings?
Iffy cradle can steer the car as you change speeds or brake or stop.
See my Cave, Bump Steer etc.

Note that Even after you fix everything and alignment is perfect the roads you drive on can make problems, worse w/ some tires even when inflated right.
Try to find a good road w/ newer pavement to reduce variables. Even new roads w/ higher crowns can force cars to steer right or left depended on what lane your in.

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Kevin87FieroGT
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Report this Post02-04-2019 05:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Additionally, you could have a bad right side bushing in your steering rack causing some looseness. RD sells a replacement bushing.

Ogre’s right, control arm and cradle bushings could also cause the drifting. Also those problems might come out during the alignment, by the tech loosing his alignment spec after bouncing the car as they should.

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Kevin87FieroGT
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Report this Post02-04-2019 05:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I see your in Battle Creek, Mi. You might want to check in with Olejoedad here on PFF. He is in your area and could possibly help you.

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Spoon
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Report this Post02-04-2019 06:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I recently rotated the tires on my 4x4 Jeep and immediately experienced a slight drift to the left on a very familiar road with no buggy tracks. I then did a left to right swap of the front tires and still had a mild drift in the opposite direction. Moved the tire in question to the rear & brought the rear one to the front and now I'm tracking straight. I marked the backside of the tire "Rear-Only".
Possible bad belt in tire.... wheels are running true, no out of range run-out. All psi's are even.

Spoon

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bHooper
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Report this Post02-09-2019 07:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for bHooperClick Here to Email bHooperSend a Private Message to bHooperEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This is relevant to me. I rebuilt and replaced everything but the steering rack, front control arm bushings and front or rear inner tie rods. At the time I figured I would worry about the front next winter. I have the alignment within specs per my new Hoffman Alignment machine.

What am I encountering... the car is twitchy, tries to wash out a bit in a straight line (at speed) and when I make a hard turn (like onto a side street ) the steering wheel doesn't rebound back to straight. However when I turn the opposite direction it straightens back out.

We have checked everything, and don't see anything lose. I'm thinking it's the rack mounts, but probably should check that adjuster.

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hoop
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wftb
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Report this Post02-09-2019 09:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbClick Here to Email wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The rear strut bolts have to be torqued to 140 lbs. Over the years I have seen a lot of people miss this step. And it will cause similar problems. Also you could have the wrong castor setting, you should see that number on the results sheet that the allignment shop gave you.

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post02-09-2019 11:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by wftb:

The rear strut bolts have to be torqued to 140 lbs. Over the years I have seen a lot of people miss this step. And it will cause similar problems. Also you could have the wrong castor setting, you should see that number on the results sheet that the allignment shop gave you.


Correct but just to clarify for the newbies, the bolts that wftb is referring to are the large bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle. High torque on the three bolts that connect the strut to the wheelhouse will snap them off. Keep those to spec.
As mentioned all bushings must all be in good shape to achieve a good alignment and the cradle bushings (84-78) cannot be overlooked. If you get it all right and and want to eliminate the bump steer, an addition of a rear anti-sway bar really improves handling.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
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bHooper
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Report this Post02-09-2019 07:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bHooperClick Here to Email bHooperSend a Private Message to bHooperEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Something that happened today, after the car sat on my drive on lift all nite, the driver side half shafts popped out of the tranny. This is a new axle, and I had issue installing it. In 1200 miles, this is the first time it popped out. However this could be part of my problems.

I plan to return it for another.

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fierofool
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Report this Post02-09-2019 09:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

When you pull the half shafts, look inside the transmission to see if the spring from the seal came out and got pushed to the back of the output shaft. That will keep the axle from locking in.

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bHooper
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Report this Post02-10-2019 07:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for bHooperClick Here to Email bHooperSend a Private Message to bHooperEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I got them to snap in, but it was work getting it to reach the hub. I have the original axle, so it will be easy to check.

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fierofool
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Report this Post02-10-2019 07:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Im offering this because i don't know your level of knowledge about replacing axles or hubs.

Use new axle nuts each time the nut is removed. Initially torque a new nut to 70 ft lb with the wheel off the ground. Lower the car and torque the nut to 200 ft lb.

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bHooper
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Report this Post02-10-2019 06:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bHooperClick Here to Email bHooperSend a Private Message to bHooperEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Im offering this because i don't know your level of knowledge about replacing axles or hubs.

Use new axle nuts each time the nut is removed. Initially torque a new nut to 70 ft lb with the wheel off the ground. Lower the car and torque the nut to 200 ft lb.


New axle's come with new nut's.

As for my qualifications, I've come a long way since I first joined this bar 20 years ago! I own 3 franchise full service car care facilities, and do most of the work on my projects (usually because my employee's do not understand the "weird **** " i tend to like). Fiero setup is different than Spec Miata or STL Integra setup. Since it's been 14 years since I've had a Fiero, I find many things are muscle memory and others are details I didn't fully understand in Y2K. So I ask questions... If I had a Judge, I wouldn't need to!

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hoop
SCCA STL Integra
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'13 Xc 60 T6awd
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Gall757
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Report this Post02-10-2019 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Are you there, Mr. Jay?

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mrjay47
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Report this Post02-14-2019 05:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mrjay47Click Here to Email mrjay47Send a Private Message to mrjay47Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks all. I have been quite tied up for the last few days and I really appreciate all of the help. I ordered and received metal cradle bushings from Rodney Dickman because these are the only bushings that I had not changed when replacing all of the other suspension parts. I'm just getting over the flu so it will be a few days until I can get the project started. I am going to try and do it without removing the cradle. I have a lift at my house so I hope that this will help. Currently my rear jacking points are on the cradle, but I will need to move those forward. I will keep you all abreast of my progress.

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