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Fiero Clutch R&R by dma46072
Started on: 01-28-2019 11:44 PM
Replies: 6 (429 views)
Last post by: olejoedad on 01-31-2019 12:13 PM
dma46072
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Report this Post01-28-2019 11:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dma46072Click Here to visit dma46072's HomePageSend a Private Message to dma46072Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well I thought that I was going to get through my engine swap smoothly but I think that is the farthest from reality. After reattaching all hoses/wires and filling it with the appropriate fluids I decided to replace the clutch before putting the cradle back into the car. My replacement clutch kit, purchased from my local parts store, appeared to have everything right except the throwout bearing. After carefully inspecting the old release bearing, I decided to use it in place of a new one. Once I got the cradle back in the car everything seemed to be going well. Now when I press the pedal the slave cylinder moves but the clutch lever will not return once I release the pedal. I am not sure exactly what went wrong but I am guessing it is an internal problem. Thank you in advance for the help.

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Report this Post01-29-2019 09:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Year, engine and transmission, please. What brand and part number clutch kit did you get and where?

It sounds as if the throwout bearing might have been installed improperly or there is a varnish buildup inside the slave that's holding the piston at the end of the bore. If you remove the pushrod does the clutch release arm move back to it's proper position?

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dma46072
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Report this Post01-30-2019 12:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dma46072Click Here to visit dma46072's HomePageSend a Private Message to dma46072Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It is a 1986 V6 with the 4spd. The slave cylinder is moving the proper distance but if I remove the slave cylinder push rod the clutch arm moves freely/loosely by hand. I purchased the clutch from Advance Auto Parts and the part number is MU59-1A. I managed to get it into gear when I had the car jacked up and the wheels started to spin.

[This message has been edited by dma46072 (edited 01-30-2019).]

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dma46072
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Report this Post01-30-2019 12:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dma46072Click Here to visit dma46072's HomePageSend a Private Message to dma46072Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

dma46072

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Member since Jan 2015
The throwout bearing would make sense because the clutch system functioned well before I did the engine swap. I read somewhere that it is easy to put the throwout bearing in wrong at least on this transaxle.
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fierofool
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Report this Post01-30-2019 09:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The 86 was a crossover year for transmissions. Depending upon engine and when manufactured, it could have a 4-speed for the early V6, a 5-speed for the late V6, or an Isuzu for the L4. Advance Auto Parts shows the MU59-1A clutch set with a 9 1/8 inch disk fits all years, 84-88. Obviously the same throwout bearing doesn't fit all transmissions. AutoZone shows different clutch sets for the different years and transmissions. I didn't do an in-depth comparison of numbers, but they have always had the correct clutch set for the cars I've ordered for. I've owned 2 85 V6 4-speeds, 2 86 V6 4-speeds, 1 86 V6 5-speed, 1 87 V6 5-speed and 1 88 L4 5-speed. Because the 86 model year used all 3 transmissions, I learned to order from either the 85 or 87 model year for a car that was equiipped the same as the 86.

Example: For the 86 4-speeds, I would order for an 85 V6 because the 85 only had 1 manual transmission for the V6. For the 86 Getrag, I would order for the 87 V6 because the 87 only had one 5-speed for the V6. Same for the MC and slaves for the V6.

I also noticed that Advance listed a Valero clutch set with a 10 1/2 inch disk. I am not sure that would properly fit the Fiero flywheel. AutoZone shows the Valero clutch sets as being 9 1/8 for all years and transmissions.

I am thinking that the 9 1/8 diameter clutch disk is the size that was used in the L4 engine cars and a 9 3/4 was the proper size for the V6. Though the L4 disk and pressure plate will work in the V6, t doesn't have the gripping surface and probably won't last as long as the larger size, is subjected to the same driving conditions.

Looks like you're probably going to have to pull the transmission again. At that point, I would just return the set and go to Pep Boys (as much as I dislike them) and pick up a LUK clutch set for an 85 GT V6. Then you know you have the right clutch set and a good one that will last.

And don't put the car in gear and run the engine with the wheels off the ground, unless you're supporting the vehicle under the rear control arms. To support it otherwise can damage your CV joints, especially on the shorter driver's side axle.

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dma46072
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Report this Post01-31-2019 12:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dma46072Click Here to visit dma46072's HomePageSend a Private Message to dma46072Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Is there a way to remove the clutch fork from the 4spd Muncie without having to move the entire transaxle? If so, I am going to attempt to adjust it and try to mesh it up with the throwout bearing properly. I have a feeling that it is a throwout bearing because the transaxle acts like I never put the throwout bearing in.

Thank you again for your help
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olejoedad
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Report this Post01-31-2019 12:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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