Any micro crack can cause the module to think you have motor problems etc. Like Big I/O pins can be a problem because need more heat and often had bigger gap too to solder them at the factory. Sim to
Chime Unit under the dash making bogus chimes.
DIY soldering can help but you should use flux even for reflow work. Flux pens are easy to find @ amazon ebay etc.
Don't use Lead Free solders to fix any old boards.
Clean/fix front grounds to car near HL lifts. G102 and G102 are often in crappy condition and rad fad and most everything in front goes thru them. Even HL bulbs and can be "dim" w/ ground problems.
But Likely is problems w/ motors too.
Even ignoring broken parts, many get worn/dirty bearings in them then bind and won't turn, mostly to open, and "trip" the module "load sensing" function.
See my Cave,
Gen 2 HL Motorcan clean etc the motor(s) but often fail again. More so when using 3rd party "fixes" like Delrin pins/dowels.
Get Cardone motors w/ a warranty. AZ I think is Cardone under store brand w/ same warranty honored nationwide.
These are a little faster then old motors too.
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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
Starting last week they wouldn't go up at all. They'd motor down, but not up. 
However, the original relay contacts actually looked great. I looked around the circuit board and checked for loose connections, everything looked ok. I plugged the circuit board in and urned on the headlights. No click for up. But if i raised them manually, they'd motor down when turned off. 
