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Brake upgrade question by 4thfiero
Started on: 01-18-2019 06:27 PM
Replies: 14 (660 views)
Last post by: fieroguru on 01-22-2019 07:00 PM
4thfiero
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Report this Post01-18-2019 06:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey guys, looks like my Brake MC is on its way out, pedal sinks to the floor and the travel has like doubled....looking to replace it, but wondering what upgrades are avail and worth it...ive heard of the S10 and Blazer upgrades, but not too sure how proven they are. My question is, do you guys know of a good MC (and possibly booster) to replace the stock system that is proven and reliable? I have the stock 88 disc brakes atm, but looking to upgrade to brembo's later on. So wanting to know the best proven setup for brakes. Thanks in advance.

88 Fiero GT, 2.4l Turbo LE5 Ecotec
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Report this Post01-18-2019 07:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
As long as you have stock Fiero calipers on the car, any master cylinder "upgrade" will actually be a "downgrade". Stick with a stock replacement master cylinder.

Only when you start running calipers (front and rear) with larger piston areas do to actually need and want to have a master cylinder capable of moving more fluid. Even then, unless you have a very good understanding of how automotive brakes work and select components based on specific component sizes, you have a greater chance of getting it wrong than right. If you just start throwing corvette, brembo, wilwood parts at it, it is really easy to get the combination of parts wrong, and end up with a less effective braking system.
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4thfiero
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Report this Post01-18-2019 09:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

As long as you have stock Fiero calipers on the car, any master cylinder "upgrade" will actually be a "downgrade". Stick with a stock replacement master cylinder.

Only when you start running calipers (front and rear) with larger piston areas do to actually need and want to have a master cylinder capable of moving more fluid. Even then, unless you have a very good understanding of how automotive brakes work and select components based on specific component sizes, you have a greater chance of getting it wrong than right. If you just start throwing corvette, brembo, wilwood parts at it, it is really easy to get the combination of parts wrong, and end up with a less effective braking system.


yeah i know what u mean, thats why im asking lol...i dont wanna mess it up more...okay ill stick with stock parts for now, but do u know the correct combo when using brembo calipers??

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msweldon
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Report this Post01-19-2019 08:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for msweldonSend a Private Message to msweldonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
All depends on the combined piston area of the calipers....

If you want the math a pretty good place to start is here:
https://www.joesracing.com/...r-cylinder-math.html

A good rule of thumb chart is on this page
https://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.html

For example, the C5 and base C6 corvette calipers only use a 1" master cylinder, similar to the fiero. The front corvette calipers are quite large but the rear caliper piston area is so small that it roughly equals that of the total fiero caliper piston area.

[This message has been edited by msweldon (edited 01-19-2019).]

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post01-19-2019 10:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would also stay with the stock master cylinder as upsizing it could provide even less braking action. If you want better braking, you can't beat the S-10 brake booster mod. On my car it made a dramatic difference and installation is not difficult and even easier when you change mater cylinders

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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fieroguru
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Report this Post01-19-2019 10:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The other item that isn't really discussed in the links above (and causes a lot of balance issues with the Fiero) is in factory form the Fiero brake system is very unique and this stems from how it was put together. In very simplistic terms, the Fiero has a front drivetrain in the rear and this also applies to the rear brake calipers. Yes they added the parking brake feature, but didn't downsize the caliper piston. So the Fiero is about the only car in existence that uses the same caliper piston areas front/rear.

Most automotive enthusiasts know that the front does more braking, especially once the weight has been transferred to the front wheels, and the Fiero isn't significantly different in this regard. However, how this is accomplished is significantly different. In the links above they talk about largely fixed line pressure going from the master to the calipers and the smaller rear caliper area being the primary means to create the brake bias front/rear. With the fiero having the same caliper piston sizes from & rear, the Fiero creates the front/rear bias by significantly reducing the rear line pressure.

Roughly 7 years ago I built this brake test rig that allowed me to apply known forces to the brake pedal by regulating the air pressure.


Then I was able to measure brake line pressure at the front and rear calipers. It was primarily done to evaluate how the larger S10 booster changes the assist on the front and rear, but it clearly illustrates the reduced rear line pressure coming out of the stock fiero combination valve. For example with 30 psi input air on the cylinder (1.5 diameter if I am remembering correctly) the front line pressure is 1200 psi and the rear line pressure is 675 psi (44% less). Since the caliper piston areas are the same front and rear, the line pressure difference becomes the bias difference. So the bias at that specific pedal load is 64/36 front/rear.

Now the front/rear bias isn't constant as the proportioning valve (which nearly every car has, and it is included within the Fiero combination valve). At 10 psi air pressure, the front line pressure was 400 psi and the rear was 300 psi. So the bias at that pedal force was 57/43 front/rear. So this clearly illustrates that at low pedal input pressures, the rear contribute more to the braking, but as braking becomes more aggressive, and weight transfer unloads the rear brakes, the rear brake contribution becomes less (likely to avoid locking up the rear brakes -which is a bad thing, especially for a Fiero).

code:

Caliper Pressure Comparison Stock 88 Booster vs. Rodney S10 Prototype:
All Tests with Engine On, but there is data from two 88 Fieros - 3.4TDC and 2.5L

3.4TDC 2.5L Stock 3.4TDC 3.4TDC 2.5L 3.4TDC
Front Front 3.4TDC Front Rear Rear
Stock Stock vs. S10 Front Stock S10 Rear
Input Air Booster Booster 2.5L Booster Gain Booster Booster Gain
(psi) (psi) (psi) (psi) (%) (psi) (psi) (%)
5 135 n/a n/a <200 n/a n/a n/a n/a
10 320 400 -80 450 41% 300 300 0%
15 550 600 -50 700 27% 400 400 0%
20 675 800 -125 950 41% 500 550 10%
25 975 925 +50 1275 31% 600 675 13%
30 1150 1200 -50 1475 28% 675 775 15%
35 1200 1225 -25 1500 25% 700 775 11%
40 1200 1250 -50 1550 29% 700 775 11%
45 1275 1300 -25 1575 24% 725 850 17%
50 1325 1325 0 1600 21% 725 850 17%
55 1475 1375 +100 1675 14% 775 900 16%
60 1475 1400 +75 1700 15% 775 900 16%



To really illustrate the Fiero line pressure issue and why you don't want to just start throwing other calipers on, we need to do a couple of comparisons using clamp force at the caliper. This is what creates the stopping force and is line pressure X caliper piston area.

So let's stick to the 30 psi pedal input where the fiero has 1200 psi front line pressure and 675 psi in the rear.

88 Fiero with stock calipers:
Front: 48mm piston = 1.890" = 2.80 sq-in x 1200 psi = 3,364 lbs clamp force
Rear: 48mm piston = 1.890" = 2.80 sq-in x 675 psi = 1,890 lbs clamp force (bias = 64/36)

88 Fiero with C5 front and rear calipers:
Front: dual 40.5mm pistons = 2 x 1.594" = 3.99 sq-in x 1200 psi = 4,788 lbs clamp force
Rear: single 45mm piston = 1.77" = 2.46 sq-in x 675 psi = 1663 lbs clamp force (bias 74/26)

With the reduces weight on the front wheels of a fiero, having a 74% front brake bias is not going to improve your braking as the rears will be contributing less.

Now if there was equal line pressure going to the C5 calipers, which is the way most vehicles are setup, then we can just compare the relative caliper piston areas front and rear for the brake bias.

Front: 3.99 sq-in
Rear: 2.46 sq-in
So with equal line pressure front and rear, the C5 brake bias would be 62/38 front, which has slightly more rear braking that the stock Fiero bias of 64/36. The C5 runs a 12 3/4" front rotor paired with a 12" rear rotor. The distance of the caliper from the wheel center becomes a lever arm and can also be used to help dial in the brake bias. In this case, the Corvette front bias would increase slightly from the larger front rotor than rear and likely end up very close to the stock fiero brake bias is.

To get optimal braking performance, both front and rear tires must contribute as much to the braking performance as possible. To keep things safe, you do want the fronts to lock up before the rears, but lockup from the front shouldn't be that far from locking up all 4.

To get the full picture of the front/rear brake bias, to have to take line pressure, caliper piston areas, distance from the caliper to wheel center, diameter of the tires, and tire compound differences into consideration as they all contribute to the conversion rate of pedal force to braking force.

Brakes are very complicated with a lot of variables making contributions. The fewer parts you change, the easier it is to evaluate the impact to the braking system and the overall cost of the upgrade can be lower.

For example, you can see up to a 33% increase in braking w/o significantly changing the bias by keeping the stock booster, master, combo valve, and calipers and just moving the calipers further from the wheel center (front and rear) with a larger rotor upgrade. All this does is make the stock clamp force at the caliper much more effective (like using a cheater bar to break a bolt loose) without creating a lot of other issues that require additional expense to address.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 01-19-2019).]

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shemdogg
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Report this Post01-19-2019 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for shemdoggSend a Private Message to shemdoggEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thats pretty bad ass guru!

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Report this Post01-19-2019 11:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for msweldonSend a Private Message to msweldonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
fieroguru,

Yes, I did not mention the uniqueness of the fiero braking system, especially the 88's which use the same rotors and caliers (with ebrake setup in rear) on both front and rear.

I've driven an 86 GT with C5 calipers front and rear that I purchased and the PO had to remove the bias spring from the prop valve AND install a wilwood prop valve on the front circuit just to balance the system (it was very impressive but not ideal). On my current 88 I'm testing C5/C6 front calipers on both front and rear to keep the inherent brake bias of the fiero with one of arron88's custom prop valves in the fiero prop valve to assist the rear a smidge more (as proven by steven synder). Calculations based up on piston area of all 4 C5/C6 calipers, 19.4" square, dictate a 1 1/8" master cylinder. Very interested to see how it brakes with the 1" stock master vs a 1 1/8" where the larger master would actually be needed.

Anyone who wishes to keep the fiero stock bias intact should realize that any caliper upgrade needs to be made with an equivalent increase in braking force both front and rear.

[This message has been edited by msweldon (edited 01-19-2019).]

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olejoedad
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Report this Post01-19-2019 01:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Great tech info, Fieroguru!

The 88 calipers work well with larger rotors, if the wheels provide clearance.

Before I would spend the money on new calipers, I would replace the M/C with stock and go with larger rotors. From personal experience, this works exceptionally well on the 88 models.
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Report this Post01-19-2019 03:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for msweldonSend a Private Message to msweldonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
the "only" problem with the 88 calipers is there dwindling availability... Two of my 88 calipers were seized up and I ran into a deal for a like new set of C6 fronts and already had a set full set of C5 calipers to work with....

When you get a new master cylinder, do bench bleed it first thing, not only does that simplify installation but I went through 2 NAPA master cylinders that leaked like sieves before settling on a working pre 88 I had boxed up...

[This message has been edited by msweldon (edited 01-19-2019).]

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EmilioD
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Report this Post01-21-2019 12:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for EmilioDSend a Private Message to EmilioDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
On my 88 I did install the S10 upgrade i personally did not like it because the front brakes would lock up at the slightest touch , so I went back to the original buster and installed EBC green pads all around, that has made a tremendous difference, I understand that EBC makes other pads (mine are the green) that will give you even more stopping power.
If anyone wants a good hardly used S10 buster I got one and will sell it for $80. 00 plus shipping and that is well below what I paid for it..
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Report this Post01-21-2019 02:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TT SlickSend a Private Message to TT SlickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This is the best write-up on our braking systems I have ever seen,
hats off to you Fieroguru.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post01-21-2019 08:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by EmilioD:

On my 88 I did install the S10 upgrade i personally did not like it because the front brakes would lock up at the slightest touch , so I went back to the original buster and installed EBC green pads all around, that has made a tremendous difference, I understand that EBC makes other pads (mine are the green) that will give you even more stopping power.
If anyone wants a good hardly used S10 buster I got one and will sell it for $80. 00 plus shipping and that is well below what I paid for it..


I am quite surprised of the results that you had with the S-10 booster. All the booster does is multiply pedal pressure. I know quite a few owners that have the mod and there is one on my 87 GT. All have reported improved braking but maybe the 88's react differently?? Could it be the pads?

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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EmilioD
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Report this Post01-22-2019 01:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for EmilioDSend a Private Message to EmilioDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No I do not believe the lock ups were the pads, the ones I had when I installed the S10 booster were standard pads with about 15000 miles on them after I returned to the original booster I went with the EBC I did this based on my experience with them in my Fiat Spider and my Triumph GT6, so far I have a good track record with them,
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fieroguru
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Report this Post01-22-2019 07:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
I am quite surprised of the results that you had with the S-10 booster. All the booster does is multiply pedal pressure. I know quite a few owners that have the mod and there is one on my 87 GT. All have reported improved braking but maybe the 88's react differently?? Could it be the pads?


The booster adds close to a fixed assist force (engine vacuum x area of booster diaphragms) before the combo valve, so it doesn't provide a uniform or even linear gain to either the front or rear.
At 10 psi input pressure - fronts see a 41% gain with 0 gain on the rear.
At 60 psi input pressure - fronts see a 15% gain with a 16% gain in the rear.

Even in the mid range pedal inputs, the fronts see a larger gain than the rear... because the combo valve is cutting line pressure to the rear like it is supposed to do.

In comparison, when you keep everything stock and move the stock calipers outward (larger rotor swap), both front and rear see the same leverage improvement, at all pedal input pressures. In other words, the improvement is made after the combo valve... so it remains the same front/rear.

There are other items that could cause a premature lockup - different tires with different coefficients, other pressure restrictions in the system, significant corner weight imbalance, sticky combo valve, etc.

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