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Sealer or no sealer? by ShaneOC91
Started on: 01-11-2019 12:21 AM
Replies: 4 (141 views)
Last post by: theogre on 01-11-2019 03:53 PM
ShaneOC91
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Report this Post01-11-2019 12:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ShaneOC91Send a Private Message to ShaneOC91Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

84 2.5 duke.
Im replacing the intake manifold gasket this week cause its leaking at the water port.
The gasket kit was vague about whether or not to use sealer on it. Its a Felpro kit.

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2.5
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Report this Post01-11-2019 09:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Unless its the awesome and expensive blue one with the built in sealant, I use a thin skin of permatex high temp, black or copper on both sides of most gaskets.
Some people are dead set against that seemingly for reasons of what certain mechanics have done years ago, but I've never had a leak, multiple engines, water, oil, even the copper on some exhaust flange/header gaskets. Just not head gaskets.

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theogre
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Report this Post01-11-2019 10:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Do Not use sealer on intake casket.
Sealers can cause More problems... RTV Silicon will cause More problems here.

FEL-PRO MS90563? is made w/ a groove between coolant and #4 and sealers can defeat that groove.
If you really want this... Paint High Tack or Super 300 only a bit around coolant port.

Head intake bolts needs correct Torque because head and intake moves as engine gets hot and cools down. Too loose and the bolts will back out over time. Too tight and small bolts or intake can break. Need Clean Dry treads to get proper torque.

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Blacktree
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Report this Post01-11-2019 02:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Like Ogre said, that gasket is meant to be installed dry. Make sure all mating surfaces are clean and dry. And torque to spec, using the tightening sequence in the manual.

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theogre
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Report this Post01-11-2019 03:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:
Unless its the awesome and expensive blue one with the built in sealant, I use a thin skin of permatex high temp, black or copper on both sides of most gaskets.
Some people are dead set against that seemingly for reasons of what certain mechanics have done years ago, but I've never had a leak, multiple engines, water, oil, even the copper on some exhaust flange/header gaskets. Just not head gaskets.
You might get away w/ that on many other seals and gaskets but can and often will fail and soon for this one.

GM and the rest of intake gasket for duke are mostly thin "rubber" over metal and hate all sealers. The "rubber" won't do its job w/ sealers or oil and other crap on the mating faces.
FP # above doesn't want it either.
Most use way to much sealers or worse sealers that poison the O2 sensor(s) etc.

If, more like when, this have problems then will have #4 cyl sucking coolant, exhaust leak for EGR, or any/all cyl's air as vac leak.
Some versions can leak oil as well because 1 or more small bolts enter oil galleries.

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