Pennock's Fiero Forum
  Technical Discussion & Questions
  brake issue 88

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version


next newest topic | next oldest topic
brake issue 88 by yellow peril
Started on: 01-10-2019 11:01 AM
Replies: 3 (242 views)
Last post by: theogre on 01-10-2019 12:39 PM
yellow peril
Member
Posts: 103
From: Farmington Ct.
Registered: Dec 2013


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-10-2019 11:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for yellow perilSend a Private Message to yellow perilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I replaced the front pads and rotors and ran out of time so drove it for a week before doing the rears. the right rear went great the left rear piston was frozen. tried to get a new caliper, couldn't find one, PO broke off bleeder and I was unsuccessful in removing it. ponyed up and bought the pair for big bucks at calipers on line. tried to bleed the rears, got all the air out but heres my question, with the car not running the pedal gets hard after 2 pumps then if you start the car I get no pedal. I have a brake light on but if you pump the pedal it gets a little harder and the light goes out but then its like losing pressure and back to no pedal. is this a vacuum problem? I had my friend a volvo mechanic come look at it and he thinks its the master. 2 things get me everything worked before (except the left rear, which was frozen but I never got a light) now a caliper failure followed by a MC failure? and looking at the new caliper there is a pretty big gap between rotor and pad. setting the parking brake doesn't seem to push the piston out to close that gap. no self adjusting? been working on this for 2 weeks waiting on parts and time to do the job. this is my daily driver and my wife is getting peaved she doesn't have a car. I hate brakes. any ideas before I spend for another MC? thanks for any input
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
wftb
Member
Posts: 3692
From: kincardine,ontario,canada
Registered: Jun 2005


Feedback score: (4)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-10-2019 11:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Keep bleeding it. You still have air in the system. Bleed rear drivers side first, passenger rear, passenger front then driver front. Having the brake light go out with a few pumps of the pedal is a good indication of air in the lines.
IP: Logged
fieroguru
Member
Posts: 12112
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (45)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 257
Rate this member

Report this Post01-10-2019 11:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The gap between the pads and rotor is the first issue to resolve.

While the rears will self-adjust eventually, you should manually adjust them.

One method is to rotate the piston,
2nd method is to remove the paking brake lever and turn the shaft (don't damage the seal or will cause a leak)
3rd option is to remove the parking brake cable and spring from the caliper lever and then use a crecent wrench to cycle the lever 20+ times and use the auto adjusting feature to set the piston position.

If you haven't dealt with Fiero rear brakes before, start with option 1 or 3. Ogres cave (link on main forum page) has a lot of info on properly setting the parking brake after caliper replacement.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 01-10-2019).]

IP: Logged
theogre
Member
Posts: 32180
From: USA
Registered: Mar 99


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 567
Rate this member

Report this Post01-10-2019 12:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
"New" calipers from them have good rep in most posted here.

Good Rear calipers should auto adjust, AKA Self Adjust, w/o problems. Methods to Manually adjust is often trouble now or soon after and I said this in my cave... See my Cave, Rear Brakes So if that or any other methods works, call the vendor to return under warranty.

Rear calipers, more accurate the rear Pistons, can hold air and may need help to shake it loose from inside of the pistons. Used plastic/wood to gently hit the calipers.

Note: Sliders need proper lube. See my Cave, Brake Service 88 Slider's dust shields are the "return spring" for the caliper outboard pad and can fight you w/o problem lube sim to other slider "o-ring" for older Fiero. Lack of lube can seize the caliper later too as water etc corrodes the aluminum.

Both Rear calipers off/open @ same time can drain tube between the two and can take longer to purge air to left side.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

IP: Logged

next newest topic | next oldest topic

All times are ET (US)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock