Anyone know any reasons my car wants to be like -50 on the dizzy, at -10 it sounds like its running on 3 cyl but smoother at higher rpm at -30 its running smooth except has a miss at idle but will easily cruise down the free way. I know having it retarded is just compensating for something and i checked my fuel pressure at its at 37, and when i unplug the fpr vacuum line it spikes to 45. Ive never checked or changed the injectors out so im not exactly ruling them out on being clogged maybe cause a lean condition anyone had this issue?
[This message has been edited by Liam45 (edited 01-09-2019).]
30° of timing advance at idle sounds about right; I tuned my 2.8 Fiero to idle around there. That's what gave me the highest RPM / the most vacuum.
When you set the ALDL jumper to adjust the timing, you're not setting the timing that makes the engine run smoothest; you're setting the timing to a known pre-determined value, so that when the computer applies its timing corrections, the overall resulting timing is as expected.
30° of timing advance at idle sounds about right; I tuned my 2.8 Fiero to idle around there. That's what gave me the highest RPM / the most vacuum.
When you set the ALDL jumper to adjust the timing, you're not setting the timing that makes the engine run smoothest; you're setting the timing to a known pre-determined value, so that when the computer applies its timing corrections, the overall resulting timing is as expected.
I like where we are going with this, only issue is when the jumper is removed after setting -10 and i go a for a drive the car feels as its missing do i need to drive a bit for computer to decide the advancment? when i rev it it sounds like a 3 cyl but eventually smooths on acceleration as the rpm increases?
Setting to -30 with jumper installed is where its at now but seems to miss at idle / stall if engine doesnt catch its self in time. But with -30 it doesnt miss / sounds like a 3 cyl when going from a stop...
[This message has been edited by Liam45 (edited 01-09-2019).]
Have you checked the two injector fuses? Maybe you are running on three cylinders!
Yeah went through all the fuses, i tried switching out the distributor to a cardone and it idled well but lost spark between 2-3k put the old one back in and it fixed the losing of spark. the cardone also worked at -10 just idk why it was losing spark. I narrowed it too the distributor , being spark coming out of the coil was nice and hot while the spark coming from the cap was not. The weird part is at -10 the throttle was snappy on the cardone at first but it would loose spark eventually, the original distributor at -10 has weak spark unless advanced to -30....
Update been driving it to hopefully have a problem surfacee and now shes throwing a code 42........lovely def something with my spark i really dont think icm but going to swap tomorrow...
I thought maybe the timing chain had slipped a tooth so I replaced it, it didn’t slip but man it was extremely loose. But during this I checked the harmonic balancer.
Might be best to determine if TDC of #1 actually lines up with the timing mark on the balancer by sticking the proper tool (or even a plastic straw) through the spark plug hole.
And if you've changed the timing chain, make sure the valves are rocking at TDC of the exhaust stroke.
Might be best to determine if TDC of #1 actually lines up with the timing mark on the balancer by sticking the proper tool (or even a plastic straw) through the spark plug hole.
And if you've changed the timing chain, make sure the valves are rocking at TDC of the exhaust stroke.
Oh no yeah I get ya I used a piston stop prior and it all lined up, I just ordered a new air temp sensor, tested it today and it’s reading very off on the multimeter, I dialed back to -10 today and it solved the code 42. The cars running eh but sensor comes in Wednesday and maybe that will help it out. Setting -10 does idle better no stalling but I think the IAT sensor is messing with my injectors idk just a thought.