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Removing the Cadillac 4.9 L motor and transmission by MulletproofMonk
Started on: 01-07-2019 12:14 PM
Replies: 0 (48 views)
Last post by: MulletproofMonk on 01-07-2019 12:14 PM
MulletproofMonk
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Report this Post01-07-2019 12:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MulletproofMonkClick Here to visit MulletproofMonk's HomePageSend a Private Message to MulletproofMonkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thought I would post this since I posted it in threads and it might be easier for someone to search it this way.

I have pulled (3) 4.9L's now, one from a 93 Deville and two from a 94 Deville. There were a couple of differences. I found it easier to pull the engine/transmission together, you can separate them after.

1. Before you start tearing the car down, you may want to write down things from the digital dash like the mileage before you pull the battery and disconnect the wiring...
2. Remove the hood and put it aside.
3. Remove the strut brace.
4. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Put a clean rag in there to make sure you don't get junk in the intake.
5. Drain the radiator, you may want to drain the transmission/engine cooler if you have them. My 93 had an oil cooler that I could leave attached to the engine, the 94 had the oil/transmission cooler in the radiator but had an external power steering cooler. Weird.
6. Remove the radiator and hoses, condensor, and fans (you will need the clearance).
7. Disconnect the wiring harness from the firewall.
8. Remove some misc wires like adjustable strut plug connections, ABS plug connections, grounds.
9. Remove the throttle cable.
10. Cut the heater hoses and fuel lines (or remove them if you have a tool).
11. Remove the EVAP canister and the washer jug. You may not have to do this, but I wanted the room and it is easy to do.
12. Remove the battery.
13. Remove the ABS connections by the battery so that you have the room to get the engine out. I think you might be able to bend it out of the way with a prybar, but it was easier to remove the bolts and force it into the battery area and put some zip ties to hold it out of the way. I didn't want to have to disconnect the brake lines and have brake fluid everywhere.
14. Get under the car and remove the nuts for the transmission and engine mounts.
15. If the exhaust crossover pipe runs above the transmission you are good (93). If the crossover pipe goes below the engine, you have to remove it because it goes around the cradle (the 94).
16. Remove the exhaust from the rear manifold.
17. Remove the cruise control. I am not kidding, remove it from the motor. When you lift it the chain will crush it. I did it the first time and started to the second time because I almost forgot.
18. One car had the axle nut seized on the end and my impact wouldn't brake it loose. Since I didn't need them, I cut the boots by the transmission. That allowed me to leave the cups in the transmission so that the fluid didn't pour out. Once I cut the boots, I could hoist the engine up enough to wiggle the axles loose. If you don't do it this way, you will need to remove the struts to drop the axles down to remove them. The second time, my problem was that I couldn't get the strut bolts loose. Cutting the boots actually made it really easy the second time I did it. Third time I just cut the boots and didn't look back.
19. Pull that motor and transmission out. Even if you aren't going to use the transmission, it is still easier to pull it in my opinion.
20. Don't forget to pull the PCM from the under the passenger dash. Make sure that you get the PCM (it has 3 plugs), you may run into the BCM (2 plugs) before you find the PCM. I almost missed getting the PCM because the BCM looks like the Fiero ECM...

Good luck to you.

------------------
-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread
Removing the roof panel
My HUD install thread
Modified stock air canister and base to 3.5 inch for 3800na

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