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No fluid at drivers side rear caliper by Mavrick1798
Started on: 01-06-2019 07:56 PM
Replies: 16 (219 views)
Last post by: fierosound on 01-18-2019 02:59 PM
Mavrick1798
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Report this Post01-06-2019 07:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mavrick1798Click Here to Email Mavrick1798Send a Private Message to Mavrick1798Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I just replaced both rear calipers today and when I went to bleed I started at the furthest caliper which bled fine then when I try the drivers side caliper nothing comes out. I have the bleeder screw quite loose as well. I have the rear of the car jacked up only but if the proportioning valve is causing this then wouldn't the other side not bleed? Need any helpful suggestions please

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Gall757
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Report this Post01-06-2019 08:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

easy answer.......On a Fiero, the furthest caliper is the driver side caliper....

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Mavrick1798
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Report this Post01-06-2019 08:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mavrick1798Click Here to Email Mavrick1798Send a Private Message to Mavrick1798Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

That's not a helpful answer at all? I'm talking about the rear Calipers. The rear passenger side caliper would be the furthest from the master cylinder. Then the 2nd furthest would be the drivers side rear caliper. That is the one in question as it's not getting any fluid right now.

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Gall757
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Report this Post01-06-2019 08:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Mavrick1798:

That's not a helpful answer at all? I'm talking about the rear Calipers. The rear passenger side caliper would be the furthest from the master cylinder. Then the 2nd furthest would be the drivers side rear caliper. That is the one in question as it's not getting any fluid right now.


And I am telling you that you are mistaken....the caliper furthest from the master cylinder is the driver's side rear caliper.....got it?

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Mavrick1798
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Report this Post01-06-2019 08:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mavrick1798Click Here to Email Mavrick1798Send a Private Message to Mavrick1798Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Alright cool. How does that explain the lack of fluid at the rear drivers side caliper?

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Gall757
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Report this Post01-06-2019 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

My guess is that you have a lot of compressed air in there and you just need to keep at it.......but there may be a leak somewhere.

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theogre
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Report this Post01-07-2019 12:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Bleed RR then LR.
Fluid from MC goes to them in that order.
If both rears are off at same time then tube between can drain "dry" and take a long time before driver's side get fluid.
Plus "Dry" rears take a lot of fluid to fill vs. fronts that doesn't need much.

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Gall757
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Report this Post01-07-2019 10:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Bleed RR then LR.



Seems to be some disagreement on this subject....

What's the correct order to bleed brakes?

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Blacktree
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Report this Post01-07-2019 10:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Like mentioned above, the driver side rear caliper is furthest from the master cylinder. The rear brake line runs down the passenger side of the car, to the passenger rear caliper. There's a T-fitting there, with a line going over to the driver side caliper. That line goes across the rear wall of the engine compartment, and is about 5 feet long. So you have another 5 feet of brake line to purge. A vacuum bleeder comes in handy for that.

If you still can't get any fluid to come out after trying to bleed it for who knows how long, you may want to check the rubber hose on the driver rear caliper. Sometimes when they fail, the hose collapses internally. Crack the hose loose from the hard line, and see if fluid seeps out. If it does, then the rubber line is probably toast.

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darbysan
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Report this Post01-07-2019 10:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for darbysanClick Here to Email darbysanSend a Private Message to darbysanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Blacktree is correct. I had to replace that line. Unusual for the Driver's side to be first, but on the Fiero it is.

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theogre
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Report this Post01-07-2019 05:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:
Seems to be some disagreement on this subject....

What's the correct order to bleed brakes?
The thread is wrong. My data comes from Fiero FSM and simple fact that RR is closer to MC because how the car is made as Blacktree said.
You close all ports then want to purge First bleed in branch of air then work next one in that branch to remove air as fast as possible.

Further Should be able to gravity bleed both to get most or all air out even w/ drained cross car tube.
Some times small air bubble(s) get stuck to tubes or in the calipers and may need vibration or "power bleeding" to air get move to breeder ports. Many times small bubbles are inside the piston assem and gently hit the caliper to shake them loose.
Sometimes Small bubbles get stuck in lines, vacuum/power moves fluid faster to make air to move. if that happens, look for crush/kink lines.

Bleeder the rears can easily drain the MC several times and if you fail to keep MC full enough so air Does Not enter the MC ports then very likely you never get air out of the system w/o "bench bleeding" the MC. Might get lucky w/ power/vacuum bleeding but not if you "pedal bleed."

Side note: The Fiero Fronts doesn't really care with one is first. LF is closer to MC but the "T" on that branch is in the combination valve and hard to drain letting air in the lines w/o also draining the MC too.

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Gall757
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Report this Post01-07-2019 06:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

So....

Does it matter which side is bled first? I was taught that you bleed the wheel furthest away from the MC first. That would be LR.

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Spoon
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Report this Post01-07-2019 06:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Mavrick1798 was thinking "as the crow flies" rather than "how the fluid flows".

As the crow flies , in a straight line; by the most direct route: The next town is thirty miles from here, as the crow flies.
Eat crow , Informal . to be forced to admit to having made a mistake, as by retracting an emphatic statement; suffer humiliation: His prediction was completely wrong, and he had to eat crow.
Have a crow to pick / pluck with someone , Midland and Southern U.S. to have a reason to disagree or argue with someone.


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Report this Post01-12-2019 08:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MRBLUE87Click Here to Email MRBLUE87Send a Private Message to MRBLUE87Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Most likely is an interior collapse of the rubber brake hose. Sounds strange but I have seen it many times in my over 50 years of mechanicing. Loosen the connection of the steel line to the rubber hose while applying brake pedal pressure. If it leaks fluid there you have a bad hose.

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post01-18-2019 04:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by MRBLUE87:

Most likely is an interior collapse of the rubber brake hose. Sounds strange but I have seen it many times in my over 50 years of mechanicing. Loosen the connection of the steel line to the rubber hose while applying brake pedal pressure. If it leaks fluid there you have a bad hose.


X 2 Have seen this many times on old brake hoses. The interior lining deteriorates with time and after a while they clog solid.

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Mavrick1798
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Report this Post01-18-2019 10:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mavrick1798Click Here to Email Mavrick1798Send a Private Message to Mavrick1798Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hey everyone, thank you all for your help and suggestions. Thought I would update with what the solution was now that my brakes are working like new! It was the flex lines, even though they looked fine in the outside they were all beginning to collapse. I ended up replacing all four being that they had probably never been changed in the cars life! That and brake fluid that was near black. Thanks again to everyone who replied, always a learning experience!

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Report this Post01-18-2019 02:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Mavrick1798:

It was the flex lines, even though they looked fine in the outside they were all beginning to collapse.
I ended up replacing all four being that they had probably never been changed in the cars life!
That and brake fluid that was near black.


Always good to get feedback when a problem is SOLVED...

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