Is it necessary to remove the outer door skin to properly clean and lube the window tracks? I just installed after-market power window motors and the driver's side works fine but the passenger side stops lifting about half way up unless I physically lift it by grabbing the glass. I can't see anywhere where it might be binding, so I'm thinking it needs a good cleaning, and I don't see how to do it with just the inner panel off.
BTW - while searching for instructions on how to remove the door skin (if I have to) there were several references to an archived write up by member Fierohoho at https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...030531-2-028815.html but all I get is 404 Not Found. Is there a different link?
After you take the door skin off you can get decent access to the window tracks. With a bit of patience and some creative tools to reach around you should be able to clean them up real nice and re grease them with some high quality synthetic grease/HHS-K oil spray (I used HHS-K on mine... That stuff is a miracle in a bottle, I use it everywhere to lube things from hinges to sunroof tracks on newer cars). It makes a HUGE difference, I did this job myself with the window tracks still in, door skin removed and the window speed is a lot better, they even work below freezing!
To remove the door skin you'll need to take the plastic torx bolts off, the door handle and lock assembly, and a few bolts behind the outside black plastic "trim". There are also bolts/rivets on the bottom of the door that need to be removed. Be sure to order new clips that go behind the black plastic "trim" from the Fiero Store, they are guaranteed to break upon removal. There are tons of guides to remove the outer door skins around here. To save you time, here is a good thread: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000019.html
------------------ "Discord" Red 1988 GT under restoration!
Let's Go Mets!
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
[This message has been edited by Shho13 (edited 01-05-2019).]
Removing outer door panel is relatively simple; Remove inner panel first.......Remove the retaining strip along the top inside of the door, then the inner dew wipe and front end window seal, then remove the mirror.....Remove the rub strip...There are 2 small screws under it that need to come out - the one in the middle of the door is the alignment screw (When you re-install the door, basically, that on should set the skin up for proper alignment(But there is some tilting for and aft).....5 plastic rivets along the bottom of the door skin.....7 Torx screws (Be very careful with these- they are plastic coated-even in the "Torx" part of it...You can very easily damage them- keep FIRM pressure on the rachet to keep the Torx-tip seated fully).......Run the window up, and then disconnect the Lock linkage and the latch linkage...The skin must be titled out at the bottom for it to clear, then lifted up to un-hook it from the top of the door.
As for lubricant....Geez...I have been going around in circles on this.....GM used some clear amber grease.....NOBODY knows what it was....GM apparently will deny that they even know what a Fiero is (Or any other GM car you ask this question of!) I have some Silicone dielectric grease from 30-40 years ago that I used.....Thick and sticky.....But others say to use Silicone spray with Teflon......
It would be really nice if GM had a PN for the grease they used when building the Fiero.....I think if you actually find this number or product, 2 guys in black suits will show up at your door! ("Excuse us, sir...You have to come with us!")
Check that your window switches are good as well as this can cause a lot of window problems. The contacts inside burn up or bend and don't make nearly as good contact anymore and as such affect the amount of current going to the window motor. GM decided back then to run all the power through the switches to drive the motor vs using a high current relay to drive the window motor (switch activate the relay).
As noted in my opening query, these are after-market units, so all facets are brand new.
I did go ahead and remove the outer panel so I could clean and re-lube the tracks, hopefully that will help, but I have to wait to find out.
I suffer from "as long as I'm there" syndrome, so I'm replacing the outer dew wipes before I put the door back together. I'll be modifying the wipes slightly and grinding some steel door sections to make installing them a lot easier.
Waterproof / permanent white lithium grease in a spray can?
Silicon grease?
Marine wheel bearing grease?
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I see white lithium grease with PTFE in a spray were mentioned in many window threads, while member Shho13 recommend Wurth HHS-K which is more expensive...
So, what is the Fiero pros window track metal-to-plastic lubrication choice?
------------------ Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles
[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 12-01-2025).]
I spray the window tracks with Silicone spray ( using the spray tube) without taking anything apart. Makes a BIG difference in curing sluggish power window operation.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
My GT doors have never been opened, so my plan is to clean/lube the door in entirety, including the vertical and horizontal tracks/guides and their wheels/cams.
Some window threads mentioned brake cleaner, and then "fresh lubricant" which I'm inquiring...
------------------ Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles
My GT doors have never been opened, so my plan is to clean/lube the door in entirety, including the vertical and horizontal tracks/guides and their wheels/cams.
Some window threads mentioned brake cleaner, and then "fresh lubricant" which I'm inquiring...
I think you will find that most if not all slow window lift problems are actually caused by track lube that has failed to the point of being extremely sticky. Sure you can add more voltage to the motor like Rodney's kit but that is addressing the symptom and not the issue. Brake cleaner will disolve most of it instantly or with a small brush. New lube should last 10 +years before needing a clean up
Do you have a preference of a metal-to-plastic window track lubrication?
I used Blaster, as in PB Blaster, white lithium grease but I think WD40 makes it as well. Just make sure the brake cleaner is completely evaporated before applying the grease
The front vertical track/guide is lined with “flocking”, a fuzzy or felt-like material like the dew wipes, and the window has durable thermoplastic 'pucks', perhaps nylon or Delrin.
As Dennis already mentioned, the best lubricant for the front felt-lined guide and window pucks is a thin film of Silicone Spray which the liquid carrier solvent evaporates.
The rear vertical and all of the horizontal tracks/guides are 'bare metal' with 'plastic' rollers/wheels.
Searching around the site, often white lithium grease gets mentioned. White Lithium Grease is ideal between metal-on-metal, is water-resistant and the high viscosity helps it stay in place. Disadvantages: can wash away, can attract dirt, and not suitable on 'certain' plastics as it may cause degradation.
When searching for a "GM window track lubrication" - AI says Silicone Grease is commonly used. Silicone grease is a thick, viscous lubricant and is ideal between metal-to-plastic, is waterproof and does not attract dirt. {Think Polyurethane Bushing Lube} Disadvantage: Not the best choice for metal-on-metal lubrication and paste/tube form only
PS I also read that many use brake cleaner before lubing the tracks. After learning that harsh chlorinated solvents in brake cleaner can weaken the molecular structure of plastics, I won't use it. Isopropyl alcohol is one of the most effective cleaning agents for plastics without serious damage and removes oils and waxes. Of course, normal soap and warm water in a spray bottle efficiently cleans too.
[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 12-03-2025).]
