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Window track lubrication by Habanera Hal
Started on: 01-04-2019 08:06 PM
Replies: 4 (198 views)
Last post by: Habanera Hal on 01-09-2019 09:26 AM
Habanera Hal
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Report this Post01-04-2019 08:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Habanera HalClick Here to Email Habanera HalSend a Private Message to Habanera HalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Is it necessary to remove the outer door skin to properly clean and lube the window tracks? I just installed after-market power window motors and the driver's side works fine but the passenger side stops lifting about half way up unless I physically lift it by grabbing the glass. I can't see anywhere where it might be binding, so I'm thinking it needs a good cleaning, and I don't see how to do it with just the inner panel off.

BTW - while searching for instructions on how to remove the door skin (if I have to) there were several references to an archived write up by member Fierohoho at http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...030531-2-028815.html but all I get is 404 Not Found. Is there a different link?

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Shho13
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Report this Post01-05-2019 12:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Shho13Click Here to Email Shho13Send a Private Message to Shho13Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

After you take the door skin off you can get decent access to the window tracks. With a bit of patience and some creative tools to reach around you should be able to clean them up real nice and re grease them with some high quality synthetic grease/HHS-K oil spray (I used HHS-K on mine... That stuff is a miracle in a bottle, I use it everywhere to lube things from hinges to sunroof tracks on newer cars). It makes a HUGE difference, I did this job myself with the window tracks still in, door skin removed and the window speed is a lot better, they even work below freezing!

To remove the door skin you'll need to take the plastic torx bolts off, the door handle and lock assembly, and a few bolts behind the outside black plastic "trim". There are also bolts/rivets on the bottom of the door that need to be removed. Be sure to order new clips that go behind the black plastic "trim" from the Fiero Store, they are guaranteed to break upon removal. There are tons of guides to remove the outer door skins around here. To save you time, here is a good thread: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000019.html

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[This message has been edited by Shho13 (edited 01-05-2019).]

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cvxjet
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Report this Post01-05-2019 12:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cvxjetClick Here to Email cvxjetSend a Private Message to cvxjetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Removing outer door panel is relatively simple; Remove inner panel first.......Remove the retaining strip along the top inside of the door, then the inner dew wipe and front end window seal, then remove the mirror.....Remove the rub strip...There are 2 small screws under it that need to come out - the one in the middle of the door is the alignment screw (When you re-install the door, basically, that on should set the skin up for proper alignment(But there is some tilting for and aft).....5 plastic rivets along the bottom of the door skin.....7 Torx screws (Be very careful with these- they are plastic coated-even in the "Torx" part of it...You can very easily damage them- keep FIRM pressure on the rachet to keep the Torx-tip seated fully).......Run the window up, and then disconnect the Lock linkage and the latch linkage...The skin must be titled out at the bottom for it to clear, then lifted up to un-hook it from the top of the door.

As for lubricant....Geez...I have been going around in circles on this.....GM used some clear amber grease.....NOBODY knows what it was....GM apparently will deny that they even know what a Fiero is (Or any other GM car you ask this question of!) I have some Silicone dielectric grease from 30-40 years ago that I used.....Thick and sticky.....But others say to use Silicone spray with Teflon......

It would be really nice if GM had a PN for the grease they used when building the Fiero.....I think if you actually find this number or product, 2 guys in black suits will show up at your door! ("Excuse us, sir...You have to come with us!")

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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post01-08-2019 02:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageClick Here to Email Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Check that your window switches are good as well as this can cause a lot of window problems. The contacts inside burn up or bend and don't make nearly as good contact anymore and as such affect the amount of current going to the window motor. GM decided back then to run all the power through the switches to drive the motor vs using a high current relay to drive the window motor (switch activate the relay).

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Habanera Hal
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Report this Post01-09-2019 09:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Habanera HalClick Here to Email Habanera HalSend a Private Message to Habanera HalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

As noted in my opening query, these are after-market units, so all facets are brand new.

I did go ahead and remove the outer panel so I could clean and re-lube the tracks, hopefully that will help, but I have to wait to find out.

I suffer from "as long as I'm there" syndrome, so I'm replacing the outer dew wipes before I put the door back together. I'll be modifying the wipes slightly and grinding some steel door sections to make installing them a lot easier.

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