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After math of a head light motor rebuild... Need help... by str8maxn
Started on: 12-30-2018 08:42 PM
Replies: 12 (292 views)
Last post by: fierofool on 01-10-2019 07:19 PM
str8maxn
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Report this Post12-30-2018 08:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hello all,

Happy New Year,

One of my head light motors stop working correctly. I purchased a rebuild kit from Rodney. I was able to take it apart, clean it out and put it back together. However, It's not functioning correctly. The motor will not go down when it has to. As soon as I plug it in, it moves into an open position. If I manually put the head light down, It will open when I turn the lights one but will don't go down when the lights are turned off.

I have swapped relays and the motor switch contacts and have not been able to fix the issue. (Used the motor that was still working)

Please note, I decided to use JB weld to bond the gear and the shaft vs. using the rubber stoppers that were supplied with kit. As shown in this youtube video called Rebuild of a Fiero Gen 1 headlight motor.

Please help,


JM

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Daryl M
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Report this Post12-30-2018 09:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

https://www.rockauto.com/en...se+board+module,8865

This is what you need.

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str8maxn
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Report this Post12-31-2018 03:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Daryl M:

https://www.rockauto.com/en...se+board+module,8865

This is what you need.


Daryl,

I have a 1986, not sure if this matters. Were is this part located?

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Daryl M
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Report this Post12-31-2018 12:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Sorry, posted wrong part link. The part I suspect is the light switch. Mine had similar symptoms. The switch was bad.

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theogre
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Report this Post12-31-2018 12:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Is a " Wiper Motor Pulse Board Module" and has Nothing to do w/ your problem.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

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fierofool
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Report this Post12-31-2018 12:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The cause of your problem is that when you put the motor back into the case, you turned the windings around. Open up the motor and turn the windings 180 degrees in the case then close up the motor and reinstall it. When disassembling the motors, you must make notation of how those windings are turned, relative to the deeper part of the motor case. First time they are opened, they will have a spot of white latex on the windings. That white spot should be visible when you put the motor back together to assure correct rotation. By turning the windings around, you have reversed the magnets.

Let us know that it works. Don't leave us hanging.

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str8maxn
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Report this Post12-31-2018 01:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

The cause of your problem is that when you put the motor back into the case, you turned the windings around. Open up the motor and turn the windings 180 degrees in the case then close up the motor and reinstall it. When disassembling the motors, you must make notation of how those windings are turned, relative to the deeper part of the motor case. First time they are opened, they will have a spot of white latex on the windings. That white spot should be visible when you put the motor back together to assure correct rotation. By turning the windings around, you have reversed the magnets.

Let us know that it works. Don't leave us hanging.



I'll give this a shot...
Thank you and I'll reply with my results.

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FX
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Report this Post12-31-2018 01:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FXClick Here to Email FXSend a Private Message to FXEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

...I had this same problem on my 86. It turned out to be the D ring on the top of the motor shaft. If you don't know it's there, it's easy to reassemble the case with that D ring outside of the housing...When you take it apart again note where the D ring is, and make sure it is seated within the housing when you reassemble it...

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fierofool
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Report this Post12-31-2018 01:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

FX has a good point. Before rotating the windings, look to see if the rubber D seal is inside the case rather than captured between the top of the case and knob. It should be inside the case.

You can expect to have a future motor failure with JB Weld. The bump stops are there to absorb shock. JB Weld doesn't absorb shock and the fingers on the drive plate may eventually break off or the JB Weld will eventually crumble like the original bump stops.

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FX
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Report this Post01-04-2019 06:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FXClick Here to Email FXSend a Private Message to FXEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

...Agree with Fierofool. I'd get that JB weld out of there, and install the bump stops. Without the 'bump stops' in there to absorb the shock of the violent stop, you risk breaking a gear...

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str8maxn
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Report this Post01-07-2019 11:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hello all,

Here is my update, I rotated the winding 180 degrees as suggested by FieroFool and that did the trick. It working correctly, Thank you for the advise FieroFool and everyone else.

How would I go about removing the JB weld?

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FX
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Report this Post01-10-2019 06:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FXClick Here to Email FXSend a Private Message to FXEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

STR, try some penetrating oil around the perimeter. Drill a few small holes in the JB around the edge, careful not to go all the way through. Then flatten the end of some screws and screw them into the holes. Turn each screw a little at a time around the edge, and keep applying the oil. When the flat end of the screws hit the bottom of the well, they may pull the weld out. The JB weld may not stick too well to that nylon-plastic. I have successfully done this with other things...

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fierofool
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Report this Post01-10-2019 07:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

If they're Rodney's gears, they are metal. If you can manage to get a slot cut in them like the head of a screw, try inserting a flatblade screwdriver and twisting it. the JB should either twist and release or shatter.

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