One of my antifreeze coolant pipes(the drivers side) has a split in it (lengthwise) about 6 inches and maybe 1/32-1/16 inch wide. I am considering welding it but do not exactly know what kind of metal it is. Since it has been under these cars for 30 years, is it a coated steel?, a type of stainless steel? Anyone ever have to do this?
Also, is JB Weld a candidate for fixing it?
Thanks
[This message has been edited by hcforde (edited 12-18-2018).]
Stainless apparently (found one post on here that said so). Can't imagine epoxy lasting long when system under pressure.
You could possibly slide a piece of tube over the split and clamp both ends. I don't think I'd cut the tube to insert a length of hose a no real way to flare ends so tube does not come off, even when clamped.
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Put a magnet to it. Low grade SS isn’t as magnetic as mild, and high grade isn’t magnetic at all.
It depends on what your going to weld it with/what it’s made of. I don’t see it being any different than welding thin tube with a crack in it. It also depends on your level of proficiency with that prosess of welding.
I tried it on a radiator and it lasted for 3 weeks. Works very well as a temporary fix. SO if you are in a remote location and have a radiator issue it WILL get you home!!!
No, I am not going to do this even as a temp fix for my current problem. I am selling the car and need a good fix I can be proud of.
Yes that and OE exhaust are a variate of SS that can rust but much slowly then "normal" steel. Welding any thin wall tube, gas tanks, etc, w/ liquid/gas sealing is not easy even for many experts. Silver solder and brazing can have same problems. A Big issue is high heat needed makes stress in the metal that can break open now or anytime after. In most steel gas tanks can use normal solders and fluxes but that won't work here. (Normal solder doesn't need high heat, only ~500-600°F and metal doesn't need to glow.)
Splitting is often one or two problem as root cause: Metal is weak from rust etc. Welding on brand new thin wall tube can have problems and multiple times worse on rotted metal. Some ID10t used water or weak coolant mix and let car freeze. If so then likely have other issues w/ problems now or in the near future like wrecked freeze plugs in the engine.
Can't find my notes and too cold to look at them but Think the coolant tubes are rolled then machine welded into a tube. If a split is a failed seem for any reason then junk it. You might fix a section and breaks again next weak spot under full system pressure.
So even if you weld or otherwise fix the problem... Can fail again in other places and likely soon. So you need to check the whole system not just fix 1 spot.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The coolant pipes are made of stainless steel, not sure which specific grade though. As mentioned above, the walls are pretty thin, so welding will be a challenge.
I wouldn't trust any of the "temporary fix" solutions, because they're temporary. That includes JB Weld. If you can't find a skilled enough welder to tackle the job, the next best solution would probably be to slip a piece of radiator hose over the pipe, to cover the split.
Put a magnet to it. Low grade SS isn’t as magnetic as mild, and high grade isn’t magnetic at all. It depends on what your going to weld it with/what it’s made of. I don’t see it being any different than welding thin tube with a crack in it.
Yes that and OE exhaust are a variate of SS that can rust but much slowly then "normal" steel. Welding any thin wall tube, gas tanks, etc, w/ liquid/gas sealing is not easy even for many experts. Silver solder and brazing can have same problems. A Big issue is high heat needed makes stress in the metal that can break open now or anytime after. In most steel gas tanks can use normal solders and fluxes but that won't work here. (Normal solder doesn't need high heat, only ~500-600°F and metal doesn't need to glow.)
Splitting is often one or two problem as root cause: Metal is weak from rust etc. Welding on brand new thin wall tube can have problems and multiple times worse on rotted metal. Some ID10t used water or weak coolant mix and let car freeze. If so then likely have other issues w/ problems now or in the near future like wrecked freeze plugs in the engine.
Can't find my notes and too cold to look at them but Think the coolant tubes are rolled then machine welded into a tube. If a split is a failed seem for any reason then junk it. You might fix a section and breaks again next weak spot under full system pressure.
So even if you weld or otherwise fix the problem... Can fail again in other places and likely soon. So you need to check the whole system not just fix 1 spot.
Yes it is split at the seam. I have a section of the pipe I got from another car it is .040 thick. I have been practicing welding on it. It is doable but you can not linger on one spot. Using .03 wire on a mig it is easy to blow through. Stick is out of the question on a low end machine. I do have a brand new Inverter welder that will do MIG, TIG and Stick but it is basically still in the box. I could turn the power very low on it and do mig pulse but I have absolutely no experience with it at this point.
[This message has been edited by hcforde (edited 12-19-2018).]
I repaired mine with JBWeld and it is holding fine after 3 years, but I had only a couple of pin holes in mine. It was not a 'split'.
6" split, I ended up cutting it out and replacing it using radiator hose I found that conformed to the curve of the tubing being replaced....double clamped both ends.
I've played with welding these tubes before. They are stainless, but that is not the issue for welding them. The issue is that there is a buildup of material on the insides that will contaminate any weld. It will be very difficult to make it hold pressure without pinhole leaks. I ended up cutting out the bad section, welding a ring to the end (couldn't flair it), then using rubber hose and clamps.
6" split, I ended up cutting it out and replacing it using radiator hose I found that conformed to the curve of the tubing being replaced....double clamped both ends.
I had mine clamped before welding the rings on. Blew the hose right off. I think there is a pic of the mess in my build thread.
