Hey gang:A few questions regarding my 1986 2M6.. Want to do the booster upgrade - what year Chevy blazer booster do I need? For upgrading disc brakes- what year grande am discs do I use and can I still keep the hand brake. My car is a standard and I live in a hilly area, so I need to keep the hand brake. Finally, squeaky clutchpedal, what would you do for that. Your advice is much appreciated.
For mine, I used a Tough Stuff 2232 booster from Summit racing, recommended by Rodney Dickman. I went this direction so that should I need a replacement booster in the future, they would be readily available froma parts store. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-2232nb I also used Rodney's Conversion kit to install that booster. http://rodneydickman.com/ca...h=64&products_id=350
The front brakes I used are from '90 Berretta, per this article. http://fierozone.tripod.com/realbrakes/index.html "The correct parts were used on a number of GM vehicles. From 1985 - 1991 the Chevrolet Beretta, Cavalier and Corsica and the Pontiac Astre, Sunbird, 2000 and J2000 all used the same brake parts. The Pontiac Grand AM used identical parts ONLY from 1985 - 1990 (NOT in 1991). In 1992 the Beretta changed to 10.25" rotors. While these rotors WILL fit on the Fiero and the calipers WILL fit the existing bolt holes, the larger diameter rotor rubs the caliper mounts on the Fiero. Using these would require fabricating caliper mounting adapters."
For the rear brakes, I used Seville calipers with custom made brackets I bought on this site from D Wood. I did this for the Emergency Brake capability. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...130314-2-083566.html
You can also use the ready to install brake boosters that sardonix makes. He takes the Fiero brake booster, bracket & actuator rod and retrofits it to the larger S-10 booster. If its the one in my garage given to me by a friend, its a neat install and a clean looking unit.. Both the Tuff Stuff booster with Rodneys adapter end ( red Loctite on the threads) or sardonix ready to go 1 pc rod booster units are both valid solutions. The third low budget option is to remove the the Fiero booster actuator rod and mounting bracket. Measure the final actuator rod extension length needed beforehand. Then take the Fiero bracket and bolt it to the S-10 booster. Cut the S10 actuator rod off. Thread both the Fiero rod and the S10 rod and use a long nut to join the two rods together at the right length but you you'll save little $$$ by doing it this way IMO, this larger booster upgrade is the best brake upgrade value.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
branger, darbysan and Dennis provided you with all the info you need to make your decision. I bought the Summit booster and Rodney's banjo to improve my braking performance. I don't like to use rebuilt parts ... especially with brakes so I bought the new Summit booster. I am using stock brakes on my 1986 (with the exception of stainless braided brake hoses) and found that the new booster really helped my braking. You may want to try the booster modification before going with the all the work and expense of the Grand Am and Seville caliper mods. If the booster doesn't get you what you want for braking improvement then try the caliper mods. The booster is an easy swap and not hideously expensive. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks Darbysan, Dennis, and gtoformula for your sage advice. Just getting into this, I want a nice Sunday driver and make this baby shine. I want it to have a little punch and also a reliable ride. Hoping to chip away at all the little things between now and summer, but also don't want it to be a money pit either. One other question, is it hard to work on, adjust repair/ replace ebrake - with a manual, I need to keep mine, and when I pull up on hand brake, doesn't seem to grip all that tight, then when I release hand brake warning bell won't stop dinging....
Thanks Darbysan, Dennis, and gtoformula for your sage advice. Just getting into this, I want a nice Sunday driver and make this baby shine. I want it to have a little punch and also a reliable ride. Hoping to chip away at all the little things between now and summer, but also don't want it to be a money pit either. One other question, is it hard to work on, adjust repair/ replace ebrake - with a manual, I need to keep mine, and when I pull up on hand brake, doesn't seem to grip all that tight, then when I release hand brake warning bell won't stop dinging....
Adjustment of the eBrake is easy. Its just a matter of taking the slack out of by adjusting the cable under the rear end of the cradle. As for the chime that sounds like the eBrake lever switch may be broken.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 11-26-2018).]
