Two tabs broke off of the reluctor of my distributor on my 87 GT. I havn’t been able to find a replacement reluctor so will replace the distributor with a Cardone unit. I marked the rotor and distributor’s body positions on the engine. Can I use these reference marks when installing the new distributor or do I have to start from scratch and find TDC, etc?
No matter how careful you are, you will still have to use a timing light to get it dialed in perfect.....Marking both the distributor body position and the rotor position will get it very close, which should allow you to skip the "TDC Piston #1" routine.
Do not allow the engine to rotate while the Dist' is out....Take it out of gear and don't touch the key.
Also, I prefer the "Cast Star" distributor to the bent tab Reluctor type......Although I could not guarantee it made any driveability difference.
I am going to time the engine. Just didn’t want to have to find TDC unless necessary. I won’t do anything to move the crank. Thanks for the quick reply!
I've had the distributor out of my Formula twice in the last four years, once for the O ring and once for the pick-up coil. I marked it's location and was careful to replace it exactly as it came out so there was no need to do any basic timing. As I understand it, the ECM does the timing thereafter. Mine seems to be running perfectly.
...was careful to replace it exactly as it came out so there was no need to do any basic timing.
David, are you assuming that the basic timing was correct prior to the first time you pulled the distributor?
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Originally posted by David Hambleton:
As I understand it, the ECM does the timing thereafter.
Keep in mind all the ECM does is advance the ignition timing varying degrees. The ECM relies on the basic timing to be set correctly to begin with (using a timing light).
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-04-2018).]
I'm 100% confident the timing was factory spec; there were under 30,000 kilometers on it and performance and fuel consumption were the same as when I got it with 5,200 kilometers. Still the same now at 38,000 kilometers.
If you do find your timing is implausibly off (with the strobe lamp method), then beware that the notched outer ring on the harmonic balancer can slip.
If the outer ring slips, then any strobe lamp measurements are invalid. If this happens, then I would suggest timing "by ear", without the ALDL jumper installed.
I'm considering painting a continuous line of paint between the harmonic balancer's outer ring and the edge of the A/C driver pulley, to be able to detect if a slip has occured.
Keep in mind all the ECM does is advance the ignition timing varying degrees. The ECM relies on the basic timing to be set correctly to begin with (using a timing light).
Strictly speaking, the ECM retards the reference pulses from the distributor, such that the retarded pulses appear "advanced" from the perspective of the next cylinder in the firing order.
It is not possible for the ECM (or for anything) to advance a pulse in time. You cannot act on an event from the future; an event which has not yet occurred.
[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 11-04-2018).]
Strictly speaking, the ECM retards the reference pulses from the distributor, such that the retarded pulses appear "advanced" from the perspective of the next cylinder in the firing order.
It is not possible for the ECM (or for anything) to advance a pulse in time. You cannot act on an event from the future; an event which has not yet occurred.
Careful here.....we might be entering the twilight zone...
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 11-04-2018).]
I like to follow the KISS rule (Keep It Simple Stupid) when I do anything. If it were me and I were changing out the distributor I would absolutely re-time the vehicle again. Especially if I was not the one to do it initially.
I just timed my car last week. Purchased a timing light from Harbor Freight, did some research on the steps, and did it. Was pretty straight forward to do.
Having recently done this, it is also worth noting a reference point as the distributor exits as this gives you a reference for reinsertion along with a marking for its end position once relocated.
I may be crazy but every 2.8 V6 Fiero that I have ever worked on has a mark staked into the base of the distributor and block for re-alignment?
That locates the distributor housing, but the rotor could be anywhere in the 360 degree rotation. PK and I have conversed on this before and I'm sure he's referring to marking the pickup points inside the distributor for reference.
