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How can I widen my 88 ? by GVV_ACE
Started on: 10-25-2018 11:36 PM
Replies: 24 (812 views)
Last post by: IMSA GT on 12-10-2018 05:31 PM
GVV_ACE
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Report this Post10-25-2018 11:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GVV_ACESend a Private Message to GVV_ACEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have a 88 gt that I am stretching. I want to widen the stance by 4” a side but I’m told the place to buy the widening kits has closed shop. Does anyone know anywhere a kit can be found or how I could fabricate one myself? I’m fabricating a totally new body for the car so I don’t need things to fit fiero wheel wells.
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Report this Post10-26-2018 12:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
V-8 Archie may be a good source.

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Report this Post10-26-2018 10:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Red98422Send a Private Message to Red98422Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
In wide body terms 8” total is a whole bunch....any particular reason for this extreme of a width? Your basically in “back half” territory there.

Just off the top of my head; you’ll need a cradle fixture/jig. New mount points for trans/engine, new axles, you’ll have to make new strut mounts. Now for the fun part you will also have to fab the back half of the space frame as well, at 8” everything will be in the way and nothing will fit like it should

Not trying to be a “Debbie downer” but are you truly ready for this involved of a project? This is your first post and we know nothing about your project.

Long story short “help us help you” what are some of the details of this project? Goals? End vision?
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Report this Post10-26-2018 03:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mr_coreanSend a Private Message to mr_coreanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Do you want to just widen where the outside edge of the wheels are or widen the entire engine bay? If just the wheels then the only thing you need to do are get some longer control arms made and possibly play with the upper shock mount in the rear. Fat wheels and tires will do the rest. You could go cheap and just put some different wheels and tires on with some heavy offset and let spacers to do the rest.
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GVV_ACE
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Report this Post10-26-2018 10:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GVV_ACESend a Private Message to GVV_ACEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

V-8 Archie may be a good source.


Thanks , I tried to call v-8 Archie but their number is disconnected, not sure if it’s because I’m calling from Canada. I emailed them, see if they reply.
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GVV_ACE
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Report this Post10-26-2018 10:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GVV_ACESend a Private Message to GVV_ACEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

GVV_ACE

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quote
Originally posted by mr_corean:

Do you want to just widen where the outside edge of the wheels are or widen the entire engine bay? If just the wheels then the only thing you need to do are get some longer control arms made and possibly play with the upper shock mount in the rear. Fat wheels and tires will do the rest. You could go cheap and just put some different wheels and tires on with some heavy offset and let spacers to do the rest.


Yah, I just want the wheel stance widened not the engine bay. I wanted to know if anyone makes longer control arms. Don’t really want to go with spacers, too hard on the bearings.
I want to widened and stretch like the Lambo kit cars only I am going to scan the frame once it’s done and 3D print a small model of it. Then use putty to sculpt a new body shape on the 3D model then Scan the putty and mill full size foam molds for fibreglassing.
It might be worth it to buy a Lambo fiero that’s already been stretched and widened and scrap the Lambo body. But I already have this 88 gt torn down.
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Report this Post10-27-2018 02:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Red98422Send a Private Message to Red98422Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Still going to need to relocate the strut mount and widen the space frame (maybe tube frame), and longer axles not to mention custom struts. Plus you want to stretch, I’m going to be honest and tell you straight up that if you don’t have some serious fab skills or a lot of money, this will never happen.

I would love to eat crow on this, but you never answered any serious questions...what is this for? Show? Race? Kit? What’s is your honest level of welding skill? (This will come into serious play as messing with suspension geometry is nothing to half ass) it seems like you have a basic understanding of CAD programming, that’ll help if you can transfer that over to a geometric 3D with load test capacity to test any new knuckles you would fabricate.

What are your plans for the front? Do you plan on a wide body there as well?

I will close this with points of what we know
1) you already have 1988 torn down
2) you have yet to acknowledge any skill with metal work to this point (you will need a lot)
3) you have a good basic plan for the body...unfortunately that’s probably at most 30% of the total work that would need to be done (imho that’s only pretty work nothing that “gets the job done”)
4) nobody knows what your plan is, makes it hard to give advice

Please if you even have the slightest feeling that your in over your head, take a step back re-evaluate the entire project and either get the skills you need to see this through or go a different route. 88’s are getting hard to come by and it would be a shame to see one sent to the scrappers for a “practice run”

There are numerous threads on how other members streatched the rear for lambo kits also afaik they never had to widebody with anything other than offsetting, read everything you can and then re-read it before you grab any tools.

ETA: I came off a little on the hard side for the body/finish work, not my intention. I know that’s what attracts attention and what everyone sees and judges at first glance I also know that crap takes ALOT of meticulous detail not knocking the body/paint guys work simply stating that the car needs to get down the road safely before you start that sort of stuff (cart before the horse sort of deal)

[This message has been edited by Red98422 (edited 10-27-2018).]

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Report this Post10-27-2018 07:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Its all been done before. And all the engineering work too. It is not rocket science. Go to the construction zone and read Bloozberry's thread. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000116.html

[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 10-27-2018).]

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Report this Post10-27-2018 12:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You may also want to strike up a discussions at:
http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/

------------------
My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

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Neils88
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Report this Post10-27-2018 12:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I widened my 88 3.5" per side up front and 3" per side in the rear for my ongoing build. It's relatively simple on the 88... if you can get the parts (I got from Arraut which has closed now). The main modifications required were the rear strut mount location and the frame rail if the wheel width requires it. (you'll also have to deal with brakes and axles...)

Here's the link to my build...
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../134807-10.html#p396
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GVV_ACE
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Report this Post10-27-2018 07:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GVV_ACESend a Private Message to GVV_ACEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Red98422:

Still going to need to relocate the strut mount and widen the space frame (maybe tube frame), and longer axles not to mention custom struts. Plus you want to stretch, I’m going to be honest and tell you straight up that if you don’t have some serious fab skills or a lot of money, this will never happen.

I would love to eat crow on this, but you never answered any serious questions...what is this for? Show? Race? Kit? What’s is your honest level of welding skill? (This will come into serious play as messing with suspension geometry is nothing to half ass) it seems like you have a basic understanding of CAD programming, that’ll help if you can transfer that over to a geometric 3D with load test capacity to test any new knuckles you would fabricate.

What are your plans for the front? Do you plan on a wide body there as well?

I will close this with points of what we know
1) you already have 1988 torn down
2) you have yet to acknowledge any skill with metal work to this point (you will need a lot)
3) you have a good basic plan for the body...unfortunately that’s probably at most 30% of the total work that would need to be done (imho that’s only pretty work nothing that “gets the job done”)
4) nobody knows what your plan is, makes it hard to give advice

Please if you even have the slightest feeling that your in over your head, take a step back re-evaluate the entire project and either get the skills you need to see this through or go a different route. 88’s are getting hard to come by and it would be a shame to see one sent to the scrappers for a “practice run”

There are numerous threads on how other members streatched the rear for lambo kits also afaik they never had to widebody with anything other than offsetting, read everything you can and then re-read it before you grab any tools.

ETA: I came off a little on the hard side for the body/finish work, not my intention. I know that’s what attracts attention and what everyone sees and judges at first glance I also know that crap takes ALOT of meticulous detail not knocking the body/paint guys work simply stating that the car needs to get down the road safely before you start that sort of stuff (cart before the horse sort of deal)



Good thing I don’t listen when people try to talk me out of something that might be challenging! Lol I know lots of guys have done this type of build and I’m next. I have skill (a professional welder at my disposal) Lots of room , time and money.
I get the feeling you want all fieros to stay fieros. But I’m not a fiero conservationist, although sense I bought the car and started to learn about them a really started to love the car and the design. I understand why people want to keep them original. But the 88 I bought was in rough shape and a perfect project car . It only cost me $1000Canadain = $ 50US LOL off a friend of mine and if it doesn’t work out in the end my 12 year old son and I had a blast building together.
I understand what your trying to say. Thanks for the warnings, but I want to know how I can do this, not why I shouldn’t.
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GVV_ACE
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Report this Post10-27-2018 08:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GVV_ACESend a Private Message to GVV_ACEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

GVV_ACE

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quote
Originally posted by wftb:

Its all been done before. And all the engineering work too. It is not rocket science. Go to the construction zone and read Bloozberry's thread. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000116.html



Thanks, I’ve checked it out and we’ve emailed back and forth already, he’s got lots of good tips
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GVV_ACE
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Report this Post10-27-2018 08:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GVV_ACESend a Private Message to GVV_ACEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

GVV_ACE

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quote
Originally posted by Neils88:

I widened my 88 3.5" per side up front and 3" per side in the rear for my ongoing build. It's relatively simple on the 88... if you can get the parts (I got from Arraut which has closed now). The main modifications required were the rear strut mount location and the frame rail if the wheel width requires it. (you'll also have to deal with brakes and axles...)

Here's the link to my build...
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../134807-10.html#p396


Thanks, I’ll check out your build. Finding parts now is gonna be the big challenge. I should have started 2 years ago. Lol
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Report this Post10-27-2018 09:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Red98422Send a Private Message to Red98422Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Glad to hear you are committed to the project at hand!!! Also happy you didn’t take my posts out of context, as you have figured just wanting to warn you the amount of work that lies ahead.

Also I am not what you would call a conservationist, I can see how that would come across from my posts, but I enjoy most all things Fiero related, custom bodys and kit cars included.

You seem to have a good understanding for what is ahead of you I wish you luck on your project and parts hunting!
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Report this Post10-27-2018 10:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IMSA GTSend a Private Message to IMSA GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What is the goal for the final product width? In other words, one of the widebody kits that Archie used to sell or even the widebody IMSA kits are 6" wider in the rear....so 3" per side. For that type of kit, you run either a 17x10 wheel or 20x12 wheel with almost zero offset. You will have to run coilovers but using the right wheels add 3-5 inches of width without stressing the bearings with the proper offset. When I had a Countach kit many years ago, I had 15x10 wheels. The wheels made up for the extended width of the Countach body.

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 10-27-2018).]

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Report this Post10-28-2018 06:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GVV_ACESend a Private Message to GVV_ACEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by IMSA GT:

What is the goal for the final product width? In other words, one of the widebody kits that Archie used to sell or even the widebody IMSA kits are 6" wider in the rear....so 3" per side. For that type of kit, you run either a 17x10 wheel or 20x12 wheel with almost zero offset. You will have to run coilovers but using the right wheels add 3-5 inches of width without stressing the bearings with the proper offset. When I had a Countach kit many years ago, I had 15x10 wheels. The wheels made up for the extended width of the Countach body.


Okay, thanks. That makes sense. I wanted to run 20s anyway, if I go with the coil overs I should be okay? So the suspension widening kits that used to be available to buy were so guys could widen and keep the wheel size stock or close to it with out using wheel spacers? If that’s the case it’s gonna save me lots of time!
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Report this Post10-28-2018 07:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm running 19x8.5 rims in the front (245/35ZR19) and 20x10 rims in the rear (295/30ZR20). These fit well with the coilovers. With 3" per side widetrack and the right rim offset, the rears would just clip the frame rails so I modified the rail above the tires slightly to compensate.
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Report this Post10-28-2018 09:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mr_coreanSend a Private Message to mr_coreanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've got Archie's widebody on my car. I've run spacers on everything I've ever owned except my work trucks and never had any issues with bearings. In the rear of my car I've got 1/2" spacers and then wheels with the correct measurements to fill out to the well lip. Been that way for about 2 years now. Had 1.5" spacers and different wheels before that for about 2 years. Stock body and 1" spacers for 2 years before that. Do bearings have issues with spacers at times? Yes, but based on my experience it's a bit overstated. I've got coil overs to help with clearance, but I'm running 305 width tires with no issues. No moving of suspension mounts or anything needed to get the width. If you want to keep it simple then build a jig and just cut off the rear frame move it back to the correct length and build in the missing frame rails. Been done a lot and keeps all the brakes/suspension bits 100% factory for ease of use and initial install. Do the upgrades and change it how you want after you already have the frame of the car sorted. Keeps the project going in steps and manageable instead of having to figure out 100 different things at every point.
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IMSA GT
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Report this Post10-28-2018 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IMSA GTSend a Private Message to IMSA GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by GVV_ACE:

Okay, thanks. That makes sense. I wanted to run 20s anyway, if I go with the coil overs I should be okay? So the suspension widening kits that used to be available to buy were so guys could widen and keep the wheel size stock or close to it with out using wheel spacers? If that’s the case it’s gonna save me lots of time!


The wide track was for that very reason. It was designed so you don't have to destroy your bearings with a huge offset wheel. This is FieroTaz (Leroy's) car. He has an Archie widebody kit which is 3" wider per side. He is running 20x12 in the rear and 20x9.5 in the front:



To answer your question on the coilovers, you will be fine but my biggest concern would be the trackbar that the 88's had in the rear. Since I don't own an 88, I can't estimate the measurements. That may be the only limitation, if at all, with going really wide in the rear. I don't know if it would interfere with the large width.

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 10-28-2018).]

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Report this Post10-28-2018 11:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GVV_ACESend a Private Message to GVV_ACEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Are most guys putting in a 2” drop kit with the 20” wheels?
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Report this Post10-29-2018 08:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by GVV_ACE:

Are most guys putting in a 2” drop kit with the 20” wheels?


20" rims will raise the car 2". Coilovers will give you enough adjustment capability to handle that. I needed an additional 2" drop because of how the body kit had to sit on the frame. The only way to achieve that was to raise the top of the rear shock mounts 2".
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Report this Post11-02-2018 01:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mr_coreanSend a Private Message to mr_coreanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Neils88:


20" rims will raise the car 2". Coilovers will give you enough adjustment capability to handle that. I needed an additional 2" drop because of how the body kit had to sit on the frame. The only way to achieve that was to raise the top of the rear shock mounts 2".


This is really interesting to me as I've never seen it before. Granted I don't have a ton of experience with 20" wheels on Fieros, but I'm running 19" wheels. What is the diameter of your tire? I've got a 27.44" tire in the rear and had no issues getting the car back down with just coilovers. I've actually got several more inches I could go with the coilovers. The issue I'm having now is I'll rub on the wheel well with big bumps or corning at speed with a passenger. Trying to get hard enough springs without making the car ride hard and control the body motion. I currently have #450 springs if I remember right. Still stock motor for weight comparison.

Disregard, I just looked at your build thread. For some reason I misread above and put you as the owner of Taz's car.

[This message has been edited by mr_corean (edited 11-02-2018).]

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Report this Post11-06-2018 06:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for blackramsSend a Private Message to blackramsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by GVV_ACE:

I have a 88 gt that I am stretching. I want to widen the stance by 4” a side but I’m told the place to buy the widening kits has closed shop. Does anyone know anywhere a kit can be found or how I could fabricate one myself? I’m fabricating a totally new body for the car so I don’t need things to fit fiero wheel wells.


Don't have a clue about widening your track but if you want some wide body wheels, I might be able to help you out.

A few years ago I was going to build a Pantero out of an 88 Formula and bought a set of Centerline wheels for that project. 16" wheels that fit the Fiero wheel hub pattern. 8" wide in the front and 10" wide on the rear. They are just sitting in my shop attic.

Rams
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Report this Post11-12-2018 01:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for qwikgtaSend a Private Message to qwikgtaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
HMS is closed, but this is what I got from them a few years ago. The length is stock, but they did have a "wide body" version. I'd imagine you could do the same thing.



Rob

[This message has been edited by qwikgta (edited 11-12-2018).]

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Report this Post12-10-2018 05:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IMSA GTSend a Private Message to IMSA GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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