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Power Window and Headlight motors draw on Volts Amps Watts by MulletproofMonk
Started on: 10-17-2018 01:39 PM
Replies: 5 (358 views)
Last post by: MulletproofMonk on 10-18-2018 06:05 PM
MulletproofMonk
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Report this Post10-17-2018 01:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MulletproofMonkClick Here to visit MulletproofMonk's HomePageSend a Private Message to MulletproofMonkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I want to know what the requirement is for the Power Window and Headlight motors for Volts / Amps / Watts. I buy donor car and want to be able to put the windows up/down and test the headlight motors. Most of the time the wiring is gone and normally use a jump box, but mine finally died. I was thinking I could use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/p...=AELVCT69TRGIF&psc=1 to just put enough power to the windows to put them up/down or test the headlight motors.

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Spadesluck
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Report this Post10-17-2018 02:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I know the window motors need a good power source to work correctly. Hence why many folks rewire them to take the power of the little switch and put it through a relay instead. As far as the power requirements go I am unsure, but I would have my doubts using that plug-in power source. Especially for the headlight motors.

How about just make another cable that goes to a battery to whatever else you are trying to power up. Of coarse that would require a good battery to be around.
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computer_engineer
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Report this Post10-17-2018 03:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for computer_engineerClick Here to visit computer_engineer's HomePageSend a Private Message to computer_engineerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Most modern window motors require between 5 - 10 amps of current to work properly. If you are using this for 30 year old window and headlight motors, I would guess something in the 10 - 15 amp range would work. A "wall-wart" will just not have enough power to run them correctly. I would use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/p...42fe3c20a62&pf_rd_p= f8d74dbd-1c39-59cb-af7f-242fe3c20a62&pf_rd_i=318022011

or this if you have the money to spend.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/p...212f460556ac&pf_rd_p =8b3652c3-eaf3-5daf-982f-212f460556ac&pf_rd_i=318022011

[This message has been edited by computer_engineer (edited 10-17-2018).]

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MulletproofMonk
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Report this Post10-18-2018 12:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MulletproofMonkClick Here to visit MulletproofMonk's HomePageSend a Private Message to MulletproofMonkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks.

I must have clicked on the lower Amperage one at some point and copied the link. I was actually looking that the one with the 10A output for $17.89...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/p...viglink21471-20&th=1
But once I climb into around $50, I may as well replace the jumpbox.

Maybe I will look at Batteries Plus and see if I can just replace the battery for a reasonable cost...
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Spadesluck
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Report this Post10-18-2018 04:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
At least with a battery you will not have to find an outlet to use. That and the fact you will need a battery eventually.
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MulletproofMonk
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Report this Post10-18-2018 06:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MulletproofMonkClick Here to visit MulletproofMonk's HomePageSend a Private Message to MulletproofMonkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I will need a battery eventually, but not for this car. I'm parting out in 85 GT. Just need to get the windows down so that I can pull the doors before I scrap the car
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