I want know how long time take your 2.8 v6 engine to fully warm ?
Today, When I have drove (after cold start) in the highway in 5 th gear at 65mph after 13 miles the engine is not warm and the collant temp gauge doesn't move and when I'm in the city the engine became to warmig up and then everything is ok.
My thermostat is New, is that normal because when I compare with a recent car the fiero take more time to fully warm up ?
When you drive your fiero gt v6, and after the engine is fully warm, where is you coolant temp gauge ?
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
Here's a pic of my factory stock '88 Formula 5 speed showing the temperature at its normal position when driving (not stopped). This temperature is reached usually by 10 kilometers, unless it's below freezing.
My '86 coupe 5 speed with an '87 2.5L engine shows the same on the temperature gauge under the same conditions.
My '84 SE 4 speed only shows that temperature on a hot day or if I've been driving for over an hour, even if I put the thermostat from the '86/'87 or a new thermostat in it. Mysterious...
The tachometer is more reliable than the temp gauge at telling you when the engine is warmed up, in my opinion. A cold start gets a high idle. When the engine reaches operating temperature, the idle drops to the factory idle speed that is used for calibration (settings are calibrated at operating temp, not at cold idle). So, when your tach reads just under 1,000 rpm at idle, the car is in closed loop (operating temp range).
Even then, the tachometer seldom reads actual RPM, in my experience. But I do know to expect a 1500 or higher idle on a cold start, and approximately 900-950 idle once closed loop is achieved.
A faulty (stuck open) thermostat will render the car to be stuck in open loop (high, cold idle). At least for quite a long period.
Temp gauges just flat-out lie, and boldly. A scan tool will yield an accurate temperature, the same temperature that the ECM sees, and runs the engine based on it.
The tachometer is more reliable than the temp gauge at telling you when the engine is warmed up, in my opinion. So, when your tach reads just under 1,000 rpm at idle, the car is in closed loop (operating temp range).
Even then, the tachometer seldom reads actual RPM, in my experience. But I do know to expect a 1500 or higher idle on a cold start, and approximately 900-950 idle once closed loop is achieved.
This is the factor I use to warm my cars up with.
I'm not sure at exactly what temp the Fiero goes into closed loop, but it is nowhere near operating temperature.
I'm betting that a cheaper thermostat was used, and the support arm bent under pressure and is allowing coolant to flow freely.
If that is the case, or if there is no thermostat, the car will run dead cold on the highway. It will only warm up when sitting still and no air is getting to the radiator. But, as soon as you start moving again, it will cool right back down.
Even if everything is working perfectly, a 2.8 Fiero will not warm up as fast as a modern car. Our other vehicles warm up WAY faster. I'm sure it's for emissions and fuel economy.
My Formula, with a new 195° thermostat, and a fresh coolant flush, still takes over half of my 15 minute morning commute to get to full temperature.
zobari, It doesn't look like anyone mentioned the cooling fan switch/sender. If defective it may be coming on too soon. Closed loop is at about up to 150 degrees
[This message has been edited by FX (edited 10-02-2018).]
zobari, It doesn't look like anyone mentioned the cooling fan switch/sender. If defective it may be coming on too soon. Closed loop is at about up to 150 degrees
If the thermostat is working properly, it wouldn't matter if the fan was running continuously . . . the radiator could be ice cold but a properly working thermostat would open and close only enough to keep the engine temp at the thermostat's set temperature (195, if stock).
My '86 GT had a leaking heater core so I temporarily bypassed it connecting the in and out hoses to each other. The connector I used had too small of an opening in it which greatly reduced the flow. This was the result...
Lesson learned.
It's too bad the OP ordered an ACDelco thermostat (although it might be fine), as the 195° Stant SuperStat 45819 is the best thermostat to get.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-02-2018).]
My thoughts were his comment about it not warming up as quick as he'd like. If the Fan is running constantly, or coming on to soon, this could cause slow warm-up. at highway speeds.
My thoughts were his comment about it not warming up as quick as he'd like. If the Fan is running constantly, or coming on to soon, this could cause slow warm-up. at highway speeds.
At highway speeds, the natural airflow makes the fan redundant. If the thermostat is closed, the fan also has no effect when the car is stopped since there's no coolant flow.
My fan switch is working. i've hear the fan turn on and off, when i let the car warming up in parking, when the tach coolant temp reach the middle the fan turn on and after +/- 30 seconds the fan turn off.
My problem is a defective thermostat i think, thank you for your advices. i'm going to change the fan switch sensor of course soon with the tps sensor.
I'm waiting for my new thermostat acdelco 10192505 (bleeding the coolant system)
And that's not the end, i must change the oil pan with the gasket (because the oil pan is leaking (slighty)). I will change the intake gasket of the upper and lower and the rocker gasket (slight leak).
The ignition coil is new (accel performance) and also the distributor.
i'am going to change the spark plug and cables, i will replace the old for a new 6 spark plug NGK Iridium 9. The clutch is new, transmission cable is new, the slave cylinder clutch and brake is new .
I will block the egr (egr side and intake side with block off plate), i don't want the egr send dirt to the intake.
I will receive a new accel 6 injector (good price 150$ instead 270 dollars), but before replace them, i will use a fuel cleaner for the old injector and, then i willl drive the car, i presume for a 131000 km car the injector is good when these are clean. if the injector is good i don't change, i keep my accel injector for later.
i will check the exhaust manifold and replace the gasket + i will port the exhaust manifold. ( i suspect a little leak on manifold gasket or exhaust manifold (engine sound little tic-tac on acceleration) For the exhaust system, I don't have a cat, but i will replace for a custom exhaust system (2.5 or 3") with borla muffler without cat.
I have repair the headlight, one of them (the right) doesn't open, now the two headlight is working. I have replace the headlight motor lamp by a new lamp with an separate bulb h4 led.
I have change the oil with the entire filter, now, when i will change the oil pan, i have to drain this new oil ( under 150 km), i'm going to change the oil filter again and the gas filter after the fuel cleaner.
For the manual transmission, may i use a 5w30 oil ?
Thank you.
[This message has been edited by zobari (edited 10-03-2018).]
Originally posted by zobari: For the manual transmission, may i use a 5w30 oil ?
You can, but Synchromesh is much better. When I switched to Synchromesh fluid, warm weather shifting didn't change much, but cold weather shifting improved a lot.
Sometimes I get mixed up in my chronologically challenged years. But see if this is feasible: With the thermostat bypass, I would think that with the fan on at low engine temp while warming up, and pushing cooler coolant through the thermostat bypass, it will take longer to reach thermostat open position, and operating temp...
Sometimes I get mixed up in my chronologically challenged years. But see if this is feasible: With the thermostat bypass, I would think that with the fan on at low engine temp while warming up, and pushing cooler coolant through the thermostat bypass, it will take longer to reach thermostat open position, and operating temp...
I don't know why you're so stuck on this?
First of all, what's with the "thermostat bypass"? Why is this part of the equation?
Secondly, even with the thermostat removed... a running rad fan will make no difference with the length of time it takes for the engine to warm up if the car is moving, as the rad fan becomes redundant due to the forward movement of the car.
[EDIT] Just to cover all bases... turning the heater up to the highest setting with the blower on full blast might delay the engine warming up a bit.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-04-2018).]
On my recently purchased '87 GT, I found that the car was having a difficult time warming up enough to get to closed loop. Turns out the PO had installed a 160 degree thermostat, and the car was just running too cool. I ordered a 180 degree stat and a 195 degree fan switch from Rodney Dickman, and the car is now running (and cooling) perfectly.
Turns out the PO had installed a 160 degree thermostat, and the car was just running too cool. I ordered a 180 degree stat and a 195 degree fan switch from Rodney Dickman...
The argument could be made that a 180° thermostat is still "too cool" to be optimum, but it's certainly better than a 160° one.
My old thermostat was stucking open, i've seen when i've removed it. i've buy a 195 and the car is warming up quicker et when the engin is warmed up, it stays at 1/4 mark on the engine coolant temp tach.
[This message has been edited by zobari (edited 11-21-2018).]
Glad this thread popped up, as it's relevant to me and the newtome just finished 86 GT. After doing the clutch I replaced the thermostat with 195* stant. Since it had been 15 years since I drove a stock Fiero, the temp threw me off a bit. The idle I remembered, the temp nit, but I see now it's right!
On my recently purchased '87 GT, I found that the car was having a difficult time warming up enough to get to closed loop.
On a car I used to have I had a thermostat which was stuck wide open, over an entire winter. Not only did I have no heat on the highway, I had issues with the transmission's automatic-lockup TCC not locking up when it was supposed to. Not a Fiero, but same transmission. Probably wasn't even in closed loop. Sadly, I didn't have a scan tool at the time because it would have been interesting how warm (or cool) it really was! Replacing the thermostat fixed both problems.
Stay with AC Delco copper core plugs. There is no advantage to using iridium tipped spark plugs in the 2.8.
I have replaced my 6 plugs for iridium 9 by ngk and the car runs better. I have replaced some sensor preventively (tps soon (need adjustment with voltmeter), oxygen filter, map, colant temp..) and the o2 sensor soon for better mileage.
The argument could be made that a 180° thermostat is still "too cool" to be optimum, but it's certainly better than a 160° one.
Very true, but this is a California car, and I would rather it run a bit cool during our hot summers. If I was still up in Oregon, I would run the stock 195 with a 210 fan switch.
