I really like this forum. There is a lot of good, useful information to be found here for Fiero owners (which I am proud to be able to say I now am one) ! However, in the commercially driven society we live in, there is a lot of bad information out there designed to get money out of our pockets. I expect most of us don't mind spending appropriate amounts of money to get the results we desire, however when the selling point is a load of B.S. that is just wrong.
I thought it might be a good idea to start a thread where someof these "Myths" were busted... After all, forewarned is for armed!!!
the irony is that Fiero's have a true "cold air" intake, the vent behind the drivers door goes to the air cleaner then the engine. But the computes, especially the early systems that don't have a intake air temp sensor (like the early 4cyl), expect a specific air temp, and heats the intake charge to some amount above ambient with a vent that pulls air from around the exhaust manifold. There is a bi-metallic vacuum witch in the air cleaner hat that opens and closes the vent to the intake heater to maintain a set intake air temp.
Does a cooler air charge make more power? yes. Will you see a difference on a dyno? yes. Will it make a difference you can feel? no.
If you have a stock or even mildly modified engine, the factory intake system is fine. I am building a 300hp turbo 4cyl for my car. And I plan on using the original air intake location. It takes more work and fabrication to get the intake piping to work but is necessary to keep pre turbo intake temps as close to ambient as possible. The computer I using also reads intake temps and adjusts fuel and ignition timing as needed.
For modest increases in air density, there should be a power increase even on an engine having a computer that can't detect the increased airflow. At WOT, a fuel-rich mixture is used, so just by adding more air, more BTUs will be freed from the fuel.
Fieros are not a well-supported platform, so we don't have too many vendors trying to sell us snake oil.
I think that to reduce dissapointment from purchases, you have to buy a CAI because you want a CAI, not because of any promised hp increase. Having the CAI should be the end-goal of the purchase; any power increase as a result is just gravy.
If the power increase is the end-goal of the purchase, with the CAI being a means of attaining said goal, dissapointment is more likely.
I am doing an engine build project. I have no particular hp number goal... I just build it however I feel like, and whatever power it shall produce, it shall produce.
My thought on it is that the stock CAI is excellent but for a 3800SC or V8 swap some mods are in order. I modified mine to be a 3 1/2" system all the way through. This required some mig welding of the OEM air filter box. Cool air is still piped from outside. The stock system was designed for a 2.8L so I wanted to be on the safe side.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Yes, "CAI" has been covered here Many times for almost since PFF started. IOW Very old news but people still believing and keep buying this and other complete crap. Worse the video ignores most "Performance" filters like K&N causes more damage to the engine because doesn't clean the air as well as OE types. GM and Other have many TSB to avoid K&N for this reason. GM Had many Diesels and other engines w/ bad top cylinder wear w/ K&N filters.
Many other things have been covered here too w/ same results... from magnets and other "fuel saving" products, Splitfire and other gimmick spark plugs, to illegal lighting and many brake "upgrades."
Most of the buyers will install whatever crap and doesn't care if they work, legal, or is even safe to the owner, anyone that rides w/ them and the rest of people on the road. YT is full of people claiming they will install whatever they want and eat the fines etc when caught. Is why some States have Points for Equipment Violations same as Moving Violations. Can eat fines but Any Points can raise Insurance bills for 3-7 Years in many places and too many the state can suspend your license But many still don't care.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Originally posted by KillerFrogg: the irony is that Fiero's have a true "cold air" intake, the vent behind the drivers door goes to the air cleaner then the engine. But the computes, especially the early systems that don't have a intake air temp sensor (like the early 4cyl), expect a specific air temp, and heats the intake charge to some amount above ambient with a vent that pulls air from around the exhaust manifold. There is a bi-metallic vacuum witch in the air cleaner hat that opens and closes the vent to the intake heater to maintain a set intake air temp.
The "Door," vac valve/line and exhaust stove is called the THERMAC and used on many cars to keep the Carb/TBI warm to prevent freezing them. The Engine doesn't really care. Fiero V6 uses Heater loop coolant to warm the TB for same reason. And V6 does have ACT/MAT sensor in the air cleaner. DIS duke w/ 700 series TBI don't have either heating system and I've never heard of freezing this type.
Freezing weather is not only time you can freeze a carb/tb/tbi unit. Is a function of weather mainly humidity and design of part. Sometimes can freeze about 40°F ambient and up w/ higher humidity easy on some vehicles w/ dead THERMAC.
Some cars/trucks still use them but most don't now.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 08-20-2018).]
A master cylinder with a bigger bore will result in a firmer brake pedal, but less pressure at the calipers, therefore... less braking. If you want a firmer pedal without affecting braking, replace the rubber brake hoses with steel braided brake lines.
A master cylinder with a bigger bore will result in a firmer brake pedal, but less pressure at the calipers, therefore... less braking. If you want a firmer pedal without affecting braking, replace the rubber brake hoses with steel braided brake lines.
Yes OE rubber is 30+ years old and all should be replaced. The outside rubber wear off, Cord layer wears out too, and oil/grease can wreck them. But SS lines is "better" is a long time Myth push by TFS and many Many others. New OE style are "softer" rubber and can swell a little but you can't feel much if any at normal working pressure. New SAE J1401 hose is far better "rubber" and takes most of SS "advantages" away and still fits same as OE.
Can get from Raybestos and others often as "Pro Grade" hoses for close to same $. As old stock runs out, likely all will be SAE J1401 rubber for good brands. Covered in https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/129208.html and others.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 08-20-2018).]
Freezing weather is not only time you can freeze a carb/tb/tbi unit. Is a function of weather mainly humidity and design of part. Sometimes can freeze about 40°F ambient and up w/ higher humidity easy on some vehicles w/ dead THERMAC.
An extreme example, perhaps, but I remember when I used to work with a pile-driving crew, the air-powered hammer they used produced frost and chunks of ice even on hot, humid July days in blinding, hot sunshine. It was crazy. Pressure + velocity (or something) and humidity was the cause. I am sure there is a Physics equation that would explain it.
Originally posted by theogre: But SS lines is "better" is a long time Myth push by TFS and many Many others.
I didn't say that SS lines are better. I said that they result in a firmer pedal. If you prefer a firmer pedal, then they're better. Me? I'm not sure. I've had one chance to do an apples-to-apples comparison, and that was on a couple of motorcycles (2 of the exact same model, 1 with SS lines, 1 without). I kinda preferred the OEM brake setup. SS lines won't improve braking. They MAY improve the driver's ability to modulate the brakes, but they may not, too. Depends on the driver.
BTW, it used to be that SS line were definitely worse for the street. There were no DOT approved SS lines. Now there are. If anyone reading this decides to get SS lines, make sure they're DOT approved.
A master cylinder with a bigger bore will result in a firmer brake pedal, but less pressure at the calipers, therefore... less braking. If you want a firmer pedal without affecting braking, replace the rubber brake hoses with steel braided brake lines.
By itself, you are correct.
The big bore M/C is to be used when doing the 4 wheel GrandAm/Beretta brake upgrade. With all 4 corners having the GA calipers and rotors, and the big bore M/C, you will see better braking results.
Originally posted by css9450: An extreme example, perhaps, but I remember when I used to work with a pile-driving crew, the air-powered hammer they used produced frost and chunks of ice even on hot, humid July days in blinding, hot sunshine. It was crazy. Pressure + velocity (or something) and humidity was the cause. I am sure there is a Physics equation that would explain it.
This happens when anything expands. AC starts expands R___ at orifice tube then goes thru evap to cool the car. Air tools etc expand air during power stoke of piston(s), or in turbine(s), then exhaust cooling off many things. You run small air tools but most don't run long enough to freeze the outside. Air sanders can do this sanding on big panels and many tools have Warnings to watch for frostbite when using on the tool or in the owners "manual."
The big bore M/C is to be used when doing the 4 wheel GrandAm/Beretta brake upgrade. With all 4 corners having the GA calipers and rotors, and the big bore M/C, you will see better braking results.
Ah, but I've seen the big bore M/C advertised as a brake upgrade by itself. Which it's not. Which is why I consider it valid for this thread. If it's part of an upgrade that includes calipers with bigger bores.... then sure, the big bore M/C is the way to go.
Originally posted by Formula Owner: BTW, it used to be that SS line were definitely worse for the street. There were no DOT approved SS lines. Now there are. If anyone reading this decides to get SS lines, make sure they're DOT approved.
Sorry but "DOT approved" for SS hoses and some other parts are a big fraud. Why? In a nutshell... DOT does Not approved anything. All test are done by Manufacturer or a Subcontractor Lab paid by them. To meet FMVSS106 rules for Brake hoses, hoses are tested as Complete parts w/ all pieces on them including any support parts like nearly all "rubber" hose have carefully crimped at the center. "DOT approved" or maybe more accurately "DOT Certificate by whatever Lab" for SS lines are voided as soon as you use Anything to support the middle because the hoses are not tested like this. If you read the warranty, many are also voided when you do that even tho these support parts come with them.
I was very sad but not surprise when I found that DOT works like this years ago. DOT/NHTSA only test cars or parts when they get complaints to look at whatever and maybe order a Recall. NHTSA took Several years to Recall Pinto Fiero and Many others for Fires and still does this. Is Sim to US CPSC that issues Recalls months to Years after your kids are hurt/killed by furniture/tv's falling on them. Both are Not Like UL that tests things before manufacturers get UL label and number for a product. In fact Many counterfeit items have bogus UL CE and other safety marks. Example: Many "hover boards" that causes huge fires. Is same putting fake DOT/"Ecode" mark on crap illegal HL. Even when buyers care, Very few consumers understand how to look for bogus marking or how bad fakes often are is how you get exploding hover boards and many other things.
MSM only reports very few recalls and then only as sound bites and often only in some markets. (market can be what city for TV/paper covers or what product.) You need a very big problem for them to bother like the hover board fires or Takata Air Bag problems.
Originally posted by Formula Owner: Ah, but I've seen the big bore M/C advertised as a brake upgrade by itself. Which it's not. Which is why I consider it valid for this thread. If it's part of an upgrade that includes calipers with bigger bores.... then sure, the big bore M/C is the way to go.
Yup and why I didn't bother w/ this above. Only recently TFS added "For use with upgraded braking systems that use calipers with larger pistons, not for use with stock brakes. Best suited for use on our vented brake package." on Part # 56054 8487BB before was sold as an upgrade to stock systems close to 20 years
Their "Vented Rotor" crap is nothing but part of crap GA brake "upgrade" covered in my cave, Brake Upgrade for 15+ years. And If you install both and keep OE rears then you have little to no brake power on the rear axle.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 08-21-2018).]
has been covered here Many times for almost since PFF started. IOW Very old news but people still believing and keep buying this and other complete crap.
