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Fiero Won't Run! Need Your Help! by manor1
Started on: 08-01-2018 04:28 PM
Replies: 16 (257 views)
Last post by: manor1 on 08-06-2018 02:27 PM
manor1
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Report this Post08-01-2018 04:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for manor1Send a Private Message to manor1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey everybody, I'm new to the forum! I've been looking through the topics on here and I cant find one where someone has had similar issues like the ones I am having so I decided to start a new thread. I have been trying to get my fathers 85 Fiero GT 2.8 running for the past couple months now as it has been sitting for almost 20 years, but I am at a loss on what to do next.

The car starts, revs up to 2,000RPM and shuts off immediately. If i give the car any major throttle input it dies. If i play with the throttle very little after about 10 times of restarting it I can get it to idle very rough at 500RPM on a few cylinders. I have done a complete fluid and filter change. I have cleaned out the tank and added fresh gas and I have done a whole new fuel system on the car (New pump, strainer, filter, and injectors). I have done a new distributor cap and rotor. New spark plugs. New ignition control module. Fuses for the left and right bank of injectors are good. It sounds like it isn't getting fuel but I don't understand how that could be. Its throwing a CEL so I jumped the pins on the ALDL connector and it would not read the code.

Just seeing if any of you have any insight on this problem or if you have experienced something like this before. Any information would be greatly appreciated! If you need more information about the car or what I've done please let me know. I could also post a video link of it idling very rough and misfiring at about 500rpm and how it starts up and shuts off. Just let me know! Thanks!

[This message has been edited by manor1 (edited 08-01-2018).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post08-01-2018 05:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by manor1:

It sounds like it isn't getting fuel but I don't understand how that could be.


A fuel pressure test would tell you a lot... while running and after the engine has been turned off.

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tshark
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Report this Post08-01-2018 05:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
...

[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-08-2018).]

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manor1
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Report this Post08-02-2018 03:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for manor1Send a Private Message to manor1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

A fuel pressure test would tell you a lot... while running and after the engine has been turned off.


Thanks for the reply.

I already performed a fuel pressure test when I redid the injectors and cleaned out the fuel rail. Was reading somwhere between 35-40PSI. That's why I"m so confused. I've come to the conclusion that it's not a fuel issue. It just misfires and shuts off unless I mess with it for a while and get it to idle extremely rough.

One thing I've noticed is when I give it throttle it almost feels like the car is being flooded with too much fuel, but if I let off the throttle quickly the rpm spikes a little bit (2000-3000rpm) and then it shuts off.
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Report this Post08-02-2018 03:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by manor1:

I already performed a fuel pressure test when I redid the injectors and cleaned out the fuel rail. Was reading somwhere between 35-40PSI.


And how long did the pressure hold after the engine was turned off?
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Report this Post08-02-2018 03:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for manor1Send a Private Message to manor1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

And how long did the pressure hold after the engine was turned off?


I kept the gauge on there for an hour. After the hour it bled off about 7 or 8 PSI so I think it was at 30 PSI. I didn't keep the gauge on longer than that
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Patrick
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Report this Post08-02-2018 08:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

That sounds fine then.
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Report this Post08-03-2018 10:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for manor1Send a Private Message to manor1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That's why I am lost. Don't know what else to replace on the car. Its very frustrating.
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Patrick
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Report this Post08-03-2018 11:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The simplest thing to do, which eliminates a lot of guesswork, is to get a scanner on there. You need to see what data the sensors are sending to the ECU. I use an appropriate cable and a laptop with WinALDL. There are other software options as well.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-03-2018).]

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Owiko
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Report this Post08-03-2018 06:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OwikoSend a Private Message to OwikoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by manor1:

Its throwing a CEL so I jumped the pins on the ALDL connector and it would not read the code.




It's not showing the code... Is it at least showing code 12? I assume the CEL is coming on when the engine is struggling to run, right?
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Report this Post08-04-2018 02:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Draw a crayon line on each exhaust manifold port. After it runs a bit see which are getting hot and which are not. Recheck your fuel pressure when this problem is happening. Buy a scan cable from me and see what the ECM sensors are reading. You need the 12 pin version.

http://reddevilriver.com/aldl.html

When scanning - TunerPro RT is much nicer to use rather than WinALDL. You can also save the scan and post it.
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Report this Post08-04-2018 04:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for viperineSend a Private Message to viperineEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I had symptoms like this, the IAC valve was bad. New one solved the problem for me. Since you have tested so many other things, it's worth a shot.
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Report this Post08-04-2018 09:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MacarchieSend a Private Message to MacarchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This may be overly simplified but... is the airway clear? Have any "tenants" moved into the air cleaner or the plastic duct that supplies it? I am big on checking all the cheap and easy fixes first

Good Luck!
- Jimmy

------------------
1987 Fiero coupe; Blue; 2.5L; 5-spd
1987 Firebird Formula; Blue; 5L; 5-spd

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manor1
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Report this Post08-06-2018 02:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for manor1Send a Private Message to manor1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Owiko:


It's not showing the code... Is it at least showing code 12? I assume the CEL is coming on when the engine is struggling to run, right?


No, it doesn't even show the code 12. For some reason I can't get it to go into diagnostic mode. I know im jumping the correct pins on the aldl connector. Also yes when i have the car idling the CEL does not go off.
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manor1
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Report this Post08-06-2018 02:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for manor1Send a Private Message to manor1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

manor1

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quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

Draw a crayon line on each exhaust manifold port. After it runs a bit see which are getting hot and which are not. Recheck your fuel pressure when this problem is happening. Buy a scan cable from me and see what the ECM sensors are reading. You need the 12 pin version.

http://reddevilriver.com/aldl.html

When scanning - TunerPro RT is much nicer to use rather than WinALDL. You can also save the scan and post it.


Ok I will give that a try. It's just hard to get the headers hot since I can't keep the car going for long
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Report this Post08-06-2018 02:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for manor1Send a Private Message to manor1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

manor1

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quote
Originally posted by viperine:

I had symptoms like this, the IAC valve was bad. New one solved the problem for me. Since you have tested so many other things, it's worth a shot.


Thanks for the info. I will give that a look

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Report this Post08-06-2018 02:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for manor1Send a Private Message to manor1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

manor1

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quote
Originally posted by Macarchie:

This may be overly simplified but... is the airway clear? Have any "tenants" moved into the air cleaner or the plastic duct that supplies it? I am big on checking all the cheap and easy fixes first

Good Luck!
- Jimmy



Yes i have checked all that. I took the whole intake apart and cleaned out the throttle body thoroughly so that shouldn't be an issue.
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