Can an '87 V-6 be driven at a constant 220* ? My radiator fan is wired to run all the time and at highway speed the fan impedes air flow. No time for a new fan motor just now. When I
do replace the motor that has a clutch, which should I buy?
Thanks again,
R

Don't trust the dash temp gauge, firstly. Second, opt for a good used fan motor or setup and revert it to stock. Upgrade to an LS1 dual fan and shroud setup if you want faster cooling with quality parts that should last.

I leave all of my cars stock with the cooling system. I actually want to know when something fails, so I can fix it. A fan that runs all the time is a bandaid that will bite you in the butt when the cooling system suffers a failure much bigger than the initial problem.

The fiero system is really not that bad. Remember, these cars came equipped with a driver-friendly booklet on maintenance that went a lot further than any other glovebox booklet I've seen to date. It's like they knew Fieros would attract the DIY crowd that we almost all are.

Start picking apart what warranted a constant fan setup. If I feel my car is warmer than I like it, I just hit one of the air conditioning buttons, which turns the fan on in the stock setup.

Just my .02

NEW fan motors can be had from Auto Zone or Advance for $20 or so. Easy to replace. Add a Rodney Dickman low temp fan switch and your fan will automatically come on long before it starts to overheat. 220 on, 210 off as opposed to 235 on with the stock fan switch and 195* thermostat. The fan switch is also easy to replace and again about $20. Both can be replaced in an hour.

The stock fan switch is triggered at.....237 degrees! My fan has probably run for a total of 2 hours in the 35 years I have owned it(Since new in 85). I switched to a 225 degree fan switch and it runs only when needed, like when in stop-n-go traffic on a hot day. Before it only came on as I pulled over from overheating. You can get that 225 switch at the local parts store...I bought mine at O'Reilly.....(On line, you can see what temp it switches on at)

I wouldn't want the fan running all the time either, but I don't believe it impedes airflow at highway speeds. I've never seen any evidence of that.
Over half of my radiator shroud is missing, so I'm sure I need the fan more than most people because of that, but turning on the fan has never done anything but cool it off, regardless of what speed I was driving. If I leave the AC switch turned on it stays constantly cool at all speeds.

I agree with the suggestions to get a lower temperature fan switch. IMO the stock switch is set too high. I like the 210 on, 200 off switch that Rodney Dickman sells.

Viperines right! Don't trust the temp. gauge. Got the engine hot, checked the coolant temp. and everythings OK
Thanks for the help.
R

quote Originally posted by fierofool: Add a Rodney Dickman low temp fan switch and your fan will automatically come on long before it starts to overheat. 220 on, 210 off as opposed to 235 on with the stock fan switch and 195* thermostat. The fan switch is also easy to replace and again about $20. Both can be replaced in an hour.

I really need to do this since I think a previous owner installed what must be about a 170-degree fan switch in my car! My fan comes on way too soon! And stays on until I shut the car off. In cold weather I just pull the fuse and run with the fan off unless I am stuck in traffic.

quote Originally posted by RPYRAZOO: Can an '87 V-6 be driven at a constant 220* ? My radiator fan is wired to run all the time and at highway speed the fan impedes air flow. No time for a new fan motor just now. When I do replace the motor that has a clutch, which should I buy?

220-230°F is fine for most engines not just Fiero engines. Over 235-240°F is hot but not "bad/dangerous" if not done every day.
Engine is "safe" Running near Coolant Boiling Point, ~265°F w/ 50/50 mix and 15PSI cap, but in this condition can Boil Over after shutdown because have little or no overhead to allow coolant heat soaking in the engine w/o WP running. For many engines, Piston Rings, Fuel Map, etc, are not happy running the engine that hot either.

Double check dash gauge w/ ECT sensor from ECM scan tool. Should be close but often not exact even when coolant system is perfect because mounting location etc. Even small difference in how mounted and wiring problems can make dash gauges to lie. OP and Fuel can have same wiring problems and Why many tell people to use a "shop" gauge to test OP when dash says high or low pressure.

OE and most Aftermarket fans can hate being on all the time. Example: Bearings and/or Brushes wear out when on full time. Worse, Many OE Fan/Blower motors have simple "Brass" bearings and can fail fast like many PC w/ cheap fans. Bearing can fail making a lot of noise or locked up and fry it and other things like relays/switches.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave