Discovered a torn CV axle boot and trying to find a simpler way to replace it. It seems that the only way is to get to it is to remove the wheel, caliper, hub nut, hub, rear tie rod and lower pinch bolt. This would allow enough room to swing the strut assembly aside and then pull the axle. To replace the axle boot requires removing the snap ring and taking off the tripod. The boot is removed, replaced and the process starts all over again. Is there an easier way to replace the boot with a smaller amount of steps?
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Part stores sell a 'split boot'. It is exactly that, a boot with a split seam that after the old boot was removed and the joint was cleaned and re-greased, the boot was slipped on the axle, glued and then the bands were installed.
Part stores sell a 'split boot'. It is exactly that, a boot with a split seam that after the old boot was removed and the joint was cleaned and re-greased, the boot was slipped on the axle, glued and then the bands were installed.
When done right, the split boot works well. The only thing faster than a stock boot is a spare axle.
The glue joint of a split boot will last, as long as the boot channel is clean when you apply the glue.
I've never heard of the split boot successfully lasting very long. Crash you are the first good review I have heard. But I do believe many many people probably wouldn't clean it well, or even know how.
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 06-21-2018).]
Discovered a torn CV axle boot and trying to find a simpler way to replace it. It seems that the only way is to get to it is to remove the wheel, caliper, hub nut, hub, rear tie rod and lower pinch bolt. This would allow enough room to swing the strut assembly aside and then pull the axle. To replace the axle boot requires removing the snap ring and taking off the tripod. The boot is removed, replaced and the process starts all over again. Is there an easier way to replace the boot with a smaller amount of steps?
If you don't use a split boot and have to replace the whole CV axle, remember to replace the transmission seal... I learned the hard way
I've never heard of the split boot successfully lasting very long. Crash you are the first good review I have heard. But I do believe many many people probably wouldn't clean it well, or even know how.
There are a few split boots that seem to work well but many do not work well. There is a boot made in Italy that uses a special solvent to weld the sections together. I believe that its the Dorman Blue Quick boot. I'll probably go with the OEM type as the outer CV requires a 3.5" diam to 1" diam boot or it won't fit well. Don't know if Dorman has a size like that so here is the plan. Free up as much space to get outer tripod clear. Leave the transmission axle end in place . Cut off the boot, then remove the snap ring that holds the tripod to the axle, remove tripod,slide new boot down the axle, put tripod back on w snap ring, install boot, then clamps on boot , put detached suspension parts back. I am tempted to try the new tech split boost but do not know if the Fiero size is available.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
. ------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 06-21-2018).]
I just did both my axels and all the boots. I do have to say my cradle is out of the car and that makes it a bit easier. I would just rather take the axels out and use the new grease that comes with the new boot. I am sure most CV joints could us it anyways. I did have to buy the tool for the clamps on Amazon.
An alternative to a split boot (that I would not personally use) is a stretch boot. Due to the unavailability of parts here, this was my best option back in... Ermm 1999 when my gaiter split and still going fine today.
You would need to borrow the air tool that stretches the boot over the joint but saves dismantling the tripod and the boots are great.
An alternative to a split boot (that I would not personally use) is a stretch boot. Due to the unavailability of parts here, this was my best option back in... Ermm 1999 when my gaiter split and still going fine today.
You would need to borrow the air tool that stretches the boot over the joint but saves dismantling the tripod and the boots are great.
Thank you for the suggestion but the outer tripod is held to the axle with only a single O ring. It takes only a minute to separate. The stretch boots are probably very good but if I must take the labor that far the traditional methods sound better . What I am impressed with is the new type split boots that assemble with a solvent that actually melts the elastomer together but they do not make a size for the Fiero.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I did a split boot back in the 90's. I think it was one that used screws to close the split. Put well over 100K miles on it without a problems. The car now has over 300K miles and the owner never mentioned a problem.
Got the one piece poly CV boot installed today. It was exactly as I imagined it would be. Here are the steps: 1. Jack car up and support with jack stands or use a quality 2 post lift as I do. We like the Rotary brand. 2. Remove lug nut and tire. Loosen eBrake cable and remove from caliper 3. Remove brake caliper and hang it. 4. Remove disc. 5. remove 3 bolts that hold the bearing hub unit in place. Remove bearing hub 6. remove tie rod at wheel end 7 remove pinch bolt. Pry lower control arm down. This should allow enough room to swing the CV axle away 8. Remove the CV clamps with a screw driver by prying the end up 9, Cut the torn CV boot away 10 . Expand snap ring from outer tripod. Pull outer tripod off. Then slip new CV boot on the axle and repeat the process. Its an involved process. Allow about 4 hours. Its easier if you also disconnect the strut but doing it this way saves a new alignment cost. BTW , notice that I replaced the CV boot without pulling the axle,. Upon re-assembly keep everything clean and don't forget the CV grease!
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
If you're stuck on the road or simply want a quick and easy fix go to Walmart and buy a bicycle patch kit. If you've lost any grease take your grease gun and feed some axle grease through the boot hole towards the joint. Second, clean the boot very well. Then use the scuffer in the kit to scuff the boot area where the hole or split is. Lastly, glue patches on till you completely cover the damage. I did this to my Sebring at 99k miles and it's still on there at 206k miles with no issues
If you're stuck on the road or simply want a quick and easy fix go to Walmart and buy a bicycle patch kit. If you've lost any grease take your grease gun and feed some axle grease through the boot hole towards the joint. Second, clean the boot very well. Then use the scuffer in the kit to scuff the boot area where the hole or split is. Lastly, glue patches on till you completely cover the damage. I did this to my Sebring at 99k miles and it's still on there at 206k miles with no issues
That sounds like an ingenious idea but I believe boot materials today are not all the same. While they once seemed like they were all rubber, the newer ones, especially the replacements feel more like a poly material.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Dennis: I realize that your post is from a couple of years ago, but perhaps you recall where you purchased the one piece cv boot. I'm looking a the same situation that you encountered and would appreciate your knowledge. Thanks, R
I had recently pulled the right axle that I had put together for 4T60e that I had put in the car about 5 years ago. I had to replace the shaft section. Had to find a pick&pull axle from the left side of a W body and swap all the other parts over. The splines were worn on the shaft causing the outer joint to fail. Didn't notice when I had put it back in the car that the inner joint snap ring was binding and now it would take a lot more force to remove it then I care to exert on the transmission tail stock, unless I have straight access to the joint. So I attempted to re band/clamp the inner boot in car. This brought back experiences that I have had. Oh by the way, I only had to remove the wheel, pinch bolt and axle nut. Latter when I have more time to leave the car undrivable longer I will do it properly. Over the years I have replaced and rebuilt many axles and have tried to use the split boots that had been out there. The main thing about using a split boot is making sure everything is clean and dry before assembling the boot. With out removing the axle and disassembling this takes too long or very hard to do. Also it is very important to leave enough time for the boot to cure before refilling with grease and reclamping. Also, because you are not taking the axle apart, you can't get all the old grease cleaned out of the joint. Kind of defeats the purpose if it is better to just remove the axle. Another issue, when trying to reclamp the boots is to have the axle straight so the boot stays on straight while trying to install the clamp. If redoing the inner joint, this is almost impossible on car due to the tripot design. This is my opinion on stretch boots. The material used for stretch boots is too soft for most applications. And tend to fail faster than other boot materials. And you still have to at least take the outer joint out of the hub. So you might as well just do it right. The only cars that we used stretch boots on were the AMC Renault cars LeCar, Aliance and so forth. The inner cage was welded to the shaft, so there was no other choice.
Dennis: I realize that your post is from a couple of years ago, but perhaps you recall where you purchased the one piece cv boot. I'm looking a the same situation that you encountered and would appreciate your knowledge. Thanks, R
I found a poly 1 pc CV boot on eBay that was a perfect fit. While not Fiero specific the size was used on a number of GM Cars like the Pontiac 6000, Chevrolet Beretta, Oldsmobile Cutlass, Chevrolet Cavalier and others. If you decide to replace a CV boot make sure you also have the clamps and a clamp pliers. You could also use the adjustable steel band clamps with the band clamp tool. On a separate note I once fixed a CV boot rip with crazy glue. It held but only until I could get the boot replaced a month later. It proved to be a good temporary fix.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
