Some years ago I did the 3.4 swap on my 86 GT. The water temperature sending unit on the 95 Camaro block that I used is located near the coolant fill tube, not in the location where the stock 2.8 has it. I am tired of smacking the top of my dash to unstick the temperature gauge needle. The sending unit, however, has only one wire, not two as noted in the instructions for fixing the electrical problem that causes the pegging issue.
My question is - how do I effect the repair with only one wire on the sending unit. Can I just swap the two #13 connectors on the back of the dash?
One separate dash related question: what, if anything is the function of the horizontal window in the upper right corner of the dash above the tachometer? Is something supposed to light up there or is it just for symmetry with the odometer on the other side. I have two manuals (Chilton's and Haynes) and neither have anything to say about it.
One separate dash related question: what, if anything is the function of the horizontal window in the upper right corner of the dash above the tachometer? Is something supposed to light up there... ?
On the 84's, that was where the factory warning light for an engine fire was located.
. . . . . . . .
Did I convince you, just maybe for a second?
I don't believe that spot was ever used for anything from the factory.
The single wire harness in the area you describe was the fan switch on the 2.8. Should be the same for the 3.4 unless you've converted to the 7730 ECM. The gauge sending unit requires 2 wires. One for the Idiot Light and one for the gauge.
A common oversight when converting to a 3.4 is failing to move the temp gauge sending unit to the left end of the trunk side head. The 3.4 has a pipe plug in that location. Once the engine is in the car, it's very difficult to remove the sending unit from the window side head and the stock Fiero wiring harness has to be rewired to attach to the front head. If the pipe plug is exceptionally difficult to remove, then you can't install the gauge sending unity in it's proper Fiero location.
On the 84's, that was where the factory warning light for an engine fire was located.
. . . . . . . .
Did I convince you, just maybe for a second?
I don't believe that spot was ever used for anything from the factory.
Hello Patrick,
I remember a discussion with you many years ago regarding my method of attaching a front stabilizer bar at the rear of my GT using aluminum spacers to gain clearance from the exhaust pipe. I haven't posted in some time, but retired recently and am doing some upgrades and fixes to my car.
And I really didn't think the window had any function (your joke about the fire warning light aside), but I am not the first owner of this Fiero and so I was not sure. I had the dash opened to replace the T10 194 bulbs with LEDs and fix the pegging temp meter and figured I should know for sure if there was a function involved.
BTW I got the car from a used car dealer by the Jersey shore many years ago. He wanted $1,500 for it back then but it was in terrible condition with about 150,000 miles on the odometer and useless brakes. I could tell that he wanted to unload it and got him down to $800, including flatbedding the car to my house 1 hour away in Princeton..
The single wire harness in the area you describe was the fan switch on the 2.8. Should be the same for the 3.4 unless you've converted to the 7730 ECM. The gauge sending unit requires 2 wires. One for the Idiot Light and one for the gauge.
A common oversight when converting to a 3.4 is failing to move the temp gauge sending unit to the left end of the trunk side head. The 3.4 has a pipe plug in that location. Once the engine is in the car, it's very difficult to remove the sending unit from the window side head and the stock Fiero wiring harness has to be rewired to attach to the front head. If the pipe plug is exceptionally difficult to remove, then you can't install the gauge sending unity in it's proper Fiero location.
Hello Fierofool,
I did the conversion about ten years ago. At the time, I didn't know there was a fix for this annoying electrical gremlin. So if I understand you correctly, what I thought was the temp sending unit is actually the fan switch as I did not change the ECM (never heard of doing that before, what are the advantages, if any?). Going out to my garage just now I see that there is a plug as you noted and I remember now that I tried to remove that plug back when I did the swap, but it was so firmly attached that I could not get it off. Now I am left wondering where on the block I left the temp sending unit. It must be somewhere as I am getting accurate temperature readings. All I need to do to fix the problem with the pegging temp gauge is swap the two wires (and the two on the dash also). Any idea where it might be?
Hello Patrick... I remember a discussion with you many years ago regarding my method of attaching a front stabilizer bar at the rear of my GT using aluminum spacers to gain clearance from the exhaust pipe. I haven't posted in some time, but retired recently and am doing some upgrades and fixes to my car.
You've got a good memory. I found that thread Here... from almost exactly ten years ago!
I went on to use the knowledge I learned from you to modify my '84 Fiero years ago. It worked fantastically well. I autocrossed that car for three years, and only retired it from that when I added an '88 Formula to the stable.
This is a great opportunity for me to thank you for sharing what you did. I really appreciated it.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-15-2018).]
You've got a good memory. I found that thread Here... from almost exactly ten years ago!
I went on to use the knowledge I learned from you to modify my '84 Fiero years ago. It worked fantastically well. I autocrossed that car for three years, and only retired it from that when I added an '88 Formula to the stable.
This is a great opportunity for me to thank you for sharing what you did. I really appreciated it.
Glad I could be helpful. It would be fun to know how many others used this modification. I would love to autocross my Fiero sometime. Not sure if that would be an issue as I am using Grundy collector car insurance (~$150/year for $8,000 collision coverage with zero deductable) it may void my policy. And I am not aware of any autocross sites in my area (central NJ).
Look on the right front corner of the front head. That's probably where your temp gauge switch is located. Just imagine rotating the rear head around to place it up front and you can judge where the sensor is. You would have had to reroute the wires to connect it.
Swapping to the 1227730 allows you to eliminate the troublesome electro-pneumatic EGR system and replace it with a more dependable digital egr system. The 7730 is also a faster ECM, upgrading sensor information faster gives better driveability of the engine. You can also eliminate the distributor and go to the Distributorless Ignition System by installing the crankshaft sensor in it's position in the trunk side of the block, and you can install a knock sensor up where your fan switch is located. The ECM controls the fan.
The cold start injector can be eliminated, too. All handled by the ECM. It usually eliminates the hunting idle condition, too. The 7730 is very tuneable, so you can do a little more custom stuff with it.
For AutoCross information, contact LostNotForgotton on this forum. He's in Newark, De. or look up the MAFOA website. Mid Atlantic Fiero Owners Association.
And I used your information and Patricks to reinstall a front swaybar on the rear of my 86SE, moving it from a rearward position to a forward position.
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 04-16-2018).]
And I used your information and Patricks to reinstall a front swaybar on the rear of my 86SE, moving it from a rearward position to a forward position.
And that's a great example of how a forum should work... knowledge being passed from member to member. Kinda gives ya the warm and fuzzies.
(snip) All I need to do to fix the problem with the pegging temp gauge is swap the two wires (and the two on the dash also). Any idea where it might be?
To stop the temp gage from pegging is very simple. Drop the steering column to gain access to the ignition switch. It's located on top of the column, the plugs insert from the right side of the column. Locate the terminal with two light green small gage wires. Remove the terminal from the plug and cover the end with shrink tubing or electrical tape to insulate. If you can't get the terminal out of the plug, just cut the two wires and solder the cut ends together and insulate, bypassing the ignition switch. The gage will no longer peg on startup (you have removed the ground path) and the gage will function normally. This modification is very easy, but does not allow the HOT light to function during BULB TEST. If you want the HOT light to work, you need to solder a wire from the cut ends of the terminal wires to the wire for the HOT light. No need to change any wiring in the engine compartment.
Look on the right front corner of the front head. That's probably where your temp gauge switch is located. Just imagine rotating the rear head around to place it up front and you can judge where the sensor is. You would have had to reroute the wires to connect it.
Swapping to the 1227730 allows you to eliminate the troublesome electro-pneumatic EGR system and replace it with a more dependable digital egr system. The 7730 is also a faster ECM, upgrading sensor information faster gives better driveability of the engine. You can also eliminate the distributor and go to the Distributorless Ignition System by installing the crankshaft sensor in it's position in the trunk side of the block, and you can install a knock sensor up where your fan switch is located. The ECM controls the fan.
The cold start injector can be eliminated, too. All handled by the ECM. It usually eliminates the hunting idle condition, too. The 7730 is very tuneable, so you can do a little more custom stuff with it.
For AutoCross information, contact LostNotForgotton on this forum. He's in Newark, De. or look up the MAFOA website. Mid Atlantic Fiero Owners Association.
And I used your information and Patricks to reinstall a front swaybar on the rear of my 86SE, moving it from a rearward position to a forward position.
Fierofool,
No internet access here all day due to a heavy thunderstorm. It appears that my cable modem was burned out by a lightning strike on the xfinity side. Amazon did a same day delivery of a new modem, thankfully.
I found the temp sending unit where you described. The reason I missed it was that it was buried between the front valve cover and a large diameter coolant hose that connects to the coolant filling tube. I wasn't using a flashlight and it is very dark in that area of my car. Making matters worse, back when I installed the 3.4, I had to remove the plastic part of the connector to get the wires to connect as the hose interfered with the connector. I was able, using locking forceps, to pull off and reverse the wires. In retrospect, I should have soldered the wires directly to the temp sender and added a new connector further away from the sender. Anyway, I reversed wires 13 and 11 in my dash and the gauge is working as it is supposed to now.
Unfortunately, my period correct AC Delco radio (it was a top-of-the-line unit with digital tuning and an auto-reversing cassette deck/equalizer) died. Probably some bad capacitors, but there must be a hundred of them in this thing, so I am probably going to get an aftermarket head unit to replace it. I may be modifying ther radio bezed to fit a double-DIN unit in place of the 1.5 DIN one. It seems that no one make a 1.5 DIN head unit anymore.
Thanks for the info on the 7730 ECM. If I had know about this option back when I was putting in the 3.4, I might have gone this route, but my engine runs great (port matched/polished intake and exhaust and 1.6 roller rockers to improve breathing, HEI with 8mm Accel wires and platinum plugs) and I don't feel like rewiring the electrical harness right now. Am I correct that this ECM is the same as what was in the 95 Camaro that I got my 3.4 V6 from?
I don't know if the Camaro/Firebird 3.4 equipped cars used the 7730, or not. I had been getting them from the Berettas but you seldom see a Beretta in the yards any more. With your mods, you would probably need some tuning done if you did make the swap.
This radio will fit the Fiero and is a popular upgrade. It's also available in the Monsoon version. Found in the Grand Prix, Bonneville and several others around the 2000 era. http://replacementradios.co...h-eq-1004e-p-32.html
I found that thread 
